punks_is_4x4

No ac I need to just take it off again and inspect it all make sure it's good I thought I might of been the tb gasket but it doesn't happen till gets a little warmed up

punks_is_4x4

Ok so we decided the sound is described as the sound of a balloon when u let the air out slowly from the opening. Hahaaha. But I know it's not a pulley it's not a rod knock it's almost unheard from the cab and it's really only there when I let off the throttle.now

jennygirl

Sounds reminiscent of air bubbles in the power steering or a dying PS pump. Checked your levels over there?

punks_is_4x4

It's on the intake side I'm starting to think it's a small vacuum leak that I punctured

jennygirl

If you have a propane torch, it would be very handy for locating it. Obviously don't spark the torch, just direct the propane gas around the possible areas of a vac leak and see if you can get rpms to rise.

kinda like this
[YOUTUBE]HnJFjFbpy-k[/YOUTUBE]

punks_is_4x4

Great idea would carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner work? Just assuming because it's flammable . Besides my new noise the tps seems to be set perefect now acceleration is smooth and feels like it has more power and response with the throttle

jennygirl

Sounds dangerous, that stuff is VERY explosive. Not quite like propane which burns differently and more safely (if I remember correctly).

But yes, I think it would work. I wouldn't recommend it, though.

Happy to hear your truck is back to running well! Now just have to fix that squeal!

UZI - SUICIDE

Someone has opened the Air Flow Meter and turned the spring too tight causing it to run rich and can throw the ECU into a tailspin trying to get everything leveled out...
just cut the silicone and remove the cover and If you are lucky they marked the original place it was set, if not loosen it and back it off 4 or 5 clicks and see what happens..

punks_is_4x4

I've done this as my afm had already been opened and 're sealed I opened it up and tryed to lean it out and it dyes I marked it where it was when I got it I actually richend it because it ran better

RJR

A tighter spring on the AFM will make it run leaner. Tighter spring => more resistance on the vane => less movement => ECU thinks less air => ECU provides less fuel => leaner mixture.

UZI - SUICIDE

My bad

punks_is_4x4

I understand it's just my afm is worn so the contact isn't very good but it won't run if I lean it out to much. I belive my truck runs rich because the ecu all ways thinks the engine is cold it takes about an hour of idle for it to actually warm up and once it does I will throw a code 4 which is for temp sensors so I have been testing the sensors they seem fine the sender for the ecu Within range but connecting plug is extreamly loose and "wiggly" the one on top of the thermostat housing has been replaced and respliced. Are there any other sensors that can trip the ecu for that code ? After I fix the loose part I'm going to check the ecu.

punks_is_4x4

The rich problem also happened randomly one day and has happened ever since. I wonder about the o2 sensor

jennygirl

Could be a blocked ECT passageway (silicone sealant is known to be floating around in there). Or maybe you have a massive air pocket in the coolant system, or both. Maybe one of the wires to the ECT broke somewhere (seems more likely).

Code 4 is ECT sensor (THW pin on ECU). Check the voltage at the ECU to see if it changes at all and check for continuity. Bet that's your issue, bad connection from ECU to ECT.

jennygirl

Chances are the wire broke right next to the connector- where it bends 180* to go back into the harness

Here's a pigtail for it if you find that's the issue and wanna start fresh with a new wire & connector
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/28423.oap

punks_is_4x4

I took out the throttle body again yesterday and noticed a striped bolt on the screw that holds the throttle body on the one that's double threaded and the other 3 are not. And the gasket was damaged so I got another one fixed my leaky hose that went to the aav and boom sound was gone the tps seems actually set now no iffy idle or acceleration. I've left my o2 sensor unpluged to see if it affected anything with my rich condition. Haven't noticed. I need to test it on the highway to see if I can get it to throw a code again I cleaned the sensor so I'm hoping maybe that was the issue

jennygirl

I hope so too!

Thanks for the update

punks_is_4x4

I hope it's fixed between work being married to a wife who works full time and full time school and a 3yr old hard to make time and enough money gonna take it on the freeway today and see what happens

punks_is_4x4

Well I didn't get to take it on the free way but I did drive the crap out of it trying to get it to fail again since I've adjusted the tps and no CEL so far. Here's my aftermarket temp gauge never gets past 160 really but my heater is blowing warm



So after all that at running temp it was at 1100rpms so I turned the idle screw down a bit to about 850 but when it's cold I have no high idle at all if anything a really low idle around 600 rpms.




So when I had the TB off I checked the aav like said working fine could it be the cold start timing switch next to the ect? I know the injector works

jennygirl

Hi punks

The aav or iacv cold idle up valve in the 86-88 22re's are prone to failure due to the unit having an electrical element on top of a mechanical one. That is the main reason I ditched it and went to 89+ intake- because it is fully mechanical and always works.

Anyway you might check the coil resistance for the aav. I forget what the ohmage should be, but it is somewhere in the FSM. I personally don't trust the old school aav's one bit... even when they check out per the FSM both mechanically and electronically they still barely work.

If you haven't already, it's worth a try to burp the coolant system. That cleared my roommates stock 87 idle issues up more than anything else. An air bubble is totally capable of throwing that cold idle up way off!