kkay

ok i got several questions hope it ok to posts them here...first i bought this truck last month 1986 22r carb. its got 150k+ miles showng but recently had the motor completely gone through less than 1k miles on it...it has a 2-3" inch body lift.. im thinking 2" has 31x50 tires..

i took the truck to mechanic to replace the rear pass. axle seal..and when i went to pick it up i almost rear-ended a lady, i had little to no brkes..i took it back thinking he needed to do a better job bleeding but he assured me that he has been doing this type work for years and NO air got into the system..after bleeding they are as bad as ever..i wanna believe the guy but like i told him he needs to believe me as well, i had brakes when i dropped it off. ..so he said he thinks its the master cylinder .i dunno maybe hes right i bled brakes again after i got home being sure to bleed the lspv..still no brakes..i can stop if i pump a few times before applying but just standing on them does little to stop....so i guess i will replace the MC ..but i did notice while under there that the arm thing coming from lspv was attache to axle. being as it has a body lift should i unhook and tie it under the bed as far as possible or should i leave it alone and just replace the mc..will it help braking? also i put new shocks on it today and noticed some leaks one from pass side cv joint boot. can i just replace boot or might it be something more? also the front propeller shaft? not sure if thats what its called but its leaking as well. is this relatively easy fix or should i leave it to a mech? i will try to add pics..oh and one more ive been trying to find the plastic cosmetic things that go beside doors ..and near rear fenders theres a small plastic piece as well..i have had zero luck finding those anyone know what they are called and where they can be purchased?

thanks a million in advance ...

kkay

heres a pic of pass. front axle boot leaking like crazy!~

also my truck is 1986 i thought those had a solid front axle...??

RJR

Re: the brakes

He probably loosened the rear brake adjustment so he could remove the drum to replace the axle seal. I would suspect he forgot to readjust the rear brakes when he put it back together, and they are now not adjusted anywhere near tight enough. In that situation, the rear brakes consume almost all of the fluid from the master cylinder just to move the shoes into contact with the drum, leaving little fluid pressure for actual braking.

Go back and tell him to properly adjust the rear brakes.

Does your e-brake work at all? I suspect not.

kkay

@RJR....thanks for the reply..well i went and purchased a new master cylinder and its still doing same thing..what you said makes sense... im about to bust a spring.take a truck to have work done you expect everything to work better when you pick it up..not worse
i went back by the mechanic today after replacing mc told him whats up..he says "sometimes new mc are defective...im done with the guy..he was even acting like an ass for being bothered today...unreal....he bleeds it again and sends me on my way ?(it was closing time) and its still not right

i unbolted the lspv arm from axle and lifted it as high as it would go and tied it off..didnt help!!!

guess tomorrow i will take tire off and see about adjusting brakes..ive never fooled with rear brakes before.. is any special tool required?

ok i just kinda found out how to adjust.. can i adjust on my truck without removing the wheel? how tight should they be? maybe one revolution free spin...is that sound about right with the lspc arm tied up? just not sure if i should leave it up or put it back down...

RJR

The rear brakes will adjust automatically when you pull the e-brake on. Just sit in your truck and pull the e-brake handle firmly about 30 times and see if things work better. That's the easiest and most foolproof way to get them adjusted.

You can speed up the process by sticking a screwdriver through the slot in the back of the drum and turning the adjuster star wheel. It will only turn one direction (tighter), so don't overtighten it. If you do, you'll have to do a tricky thing with two screwdrivers to get it loose again.

Pulling on the e-brake won't overtighten it - it will stop moving the star wheel when the brake is properly adjusted.

kkay

i dont have an e-brake was out when bought truck ...lol just keeps getting worse..thnks boss