brjason

Hi,

I'm on my way back out of a head gasket replacement for my 92 4Runner, and I've pretty much been using a Chilton's manual plus whatever online resources I've found (definitely including this site)... I just found out about and ordered the FSMs.

In the meantime, I found some .pdf's of a FSM for this engine, and saw a couple of steps that weren't mentioned by Chilton. I'm wondering how critical these will be. I just finished putting the head covers back on.

1. I didn't put any "mp grease" on the new oil seals. Is this the same as the engine assembly lube I put on all the other contact surfaces of the camshaft? How important is this? Should I take the camshafts out again so that I can remove the seal and put "mp grease" on them?

2. I didn't put any "seal packing" (which, from the diagrams, seems to be the same FIPG I used underneath the #1 & #5 cam bearings) at the places it mentions between the head and the head cover. Do I need to remove the head cover and lay some down?

3. The FSM shows a special tool for tapping in the new seals.
a) I just put the new seal on the camshaft before I bolted it down... is that a bad idea?
b) How would I use that tool to tap in the new seal on the LH head anyway? I can't imagine how there would be enough clearance...

Thanks,
Jason

brjason

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Jason

Ebin

I can only answer question #1 - yes it is and yes you should. this protects them from damage until the oil gets fully circulated

Question #2 - What do you mean by "head cover"?

Question #3 - I prolly need to know the answer to that myself

brjason

#2: Sorry, the Chilton's keeps referring to the valve covers as "head covers." I've been getting in the habit myself, even though when I think about it I know nobody else uses that term.

So you can look at question #2 again and replace "head cover" with "valve cover" ...

#3: Any takers on this one? To clarify, based on what the Chilton's says, I just slid the oil seals over the ends of the camshafts just before I set the shafts in place and bolted down the bearings. Will this be okay (assuming I confirm whether I put engine assembly lube on there... ?
A thought someone I was talking to had was that perhaps the tool in the FSM would be used if the engine was out of the vehicle... (?)

Thanks,
Jason

thook

You can tap in the seal with a socket, piece of pvc pipe, or anything of same diameter. I just lightly tapped around it with a ball-peen hammer. The important thing is that it goes in evenly and flush with the inside of the cap and journal. Also, it does have to be well lubed, but not overly. The way you did it is fine, although I would say the other way is best. Just have to make sure it seated it in well and it didn't bind under the cap when you torqued it down. But, you will want to pull it and lube it...which means you'll have to go back and remove all the bearing caps sequentially just to get the end caps off to pull the seals without damaging them. Then, I would put back it the "accepted" way.
On the valve covers, where are the places it mentions?

GSGALLANT

As far as the FIPG on the valve cover gaskets goes, Toyota recommends a small dab of FIPG at the base of the half moon shapes of the gaskets for extra protection against leaks at that spot. The 3.0 is notorious for valve cover gasket leaks at that location, so you should consider pulling the covers and doing it right (especially since you should be pulling the covers to grease your oil seals.)

Dan_in_WI

I have a couple of simple questions.

I haven't actually satisfied my curiosity searching this subject.

1. Will it hurt or is it stupid to use FIPG around the entire seal?

2. Should it be used on both sides of the gasket?

3. What is the best FIPG for this application?

4. Are the OEM valve cover gaskets better than after market gaskets?

MudHippy

1. I don't think it could hurt, nor is it stupid. I wish I would have cause now mine leaks.
2. You bet, just apply a thin film, don't get too crazy with the amount.
3. I don't know for sure, but it is likely called "right stuff" "the right stuff", I'm serious, I have only heard it mentioned a couple times, and I geuss by the acclaims, it lives up to it's name. I thought RTV, was RTV? If that's what FIPG is, I'm not familiar with that greek.
4. I HIGHLY DOUBT IT!

Dan_in_WI

FIPG = Form In Place Gasket. I didn't know it either until I found an abbreviations dictionary posted.

I'll try the right stuff. Thanks.

One more question for anybody out there.

I read I will also have to replace an intake gasket also. Can anybody elaborate on this. I am a 3VZE virgin. Anything else I should do while I'm in there?

MudHippy

Yes, you'll need the plenum chamber gasket, not the intake manifold gaskets(2). Cheap and easy, just don't use any FIPG/RTV on it. You could restrict the flow if you were to use to much, and I don't think the manufact. says to anyway.

I would recommend removing the rear camshaft seal covers and resealing them, with FIPG/RTV, when you replace the valve covers. They are another notorious leak spot on the 3vze. It's especially easy to cause them to leak when you replace the valve cover gaskets, without resealing them.