new motor using oil
04-08-2009, 04:12 PM
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new motor using oil
i got bout 4500 miles on a full rebuilt motor. bored, rods resized, head completly redone. all machine work was done by a good shop (local). it has plenty of power and really don't show ant sighns of smoke. but it still uses bout a half a quart a week. its a 22re and my daily comute is 40 miles, i drive it everyday. where is my oil going? i also replaced the pcv valve.(i think thats whats its called. thanks!
04-08-2009, 04:40 PM
#2
have you looked for fresh oil leaks? check the pan, the front and rear seals the valve cover gasket. Ask the machine shop to check, as they did the rebuild. I would have thought your piston rings would have seated by 4500 miles. Sometimes, the gaps in the rings line up and let oil by. But a good shop woudn't let that happen i would think.
04-08-2009, 04:48 PM
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no oil leaks, and i put the motor together. i checked the end gap and made sure none lined up. i used the speedpro coated pistons, which i've never used them before. maybe the rings just aint sealed off yet. i've done a compression test and all are within 5 pounds of each other.
04-08-2009, 08:16 PM
#7
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I had my 22re completly rebuilt also , it did the same thing for about 5000 miles then just stopped . It does not use any oil anymore .I dont know why it took so long but it did.
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04-09-2009, 02:54 AM
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04-09-2009, 03:06 AM
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You say the gaps aren't lined up, but how far apart did you install them (120 degrees, 180 degrees, 90 degrees, and the oil scraper rings were clocked how?)?
What weight and API grade oil was used for break-in?
What weight and API grade oil was used for break-in?
04-09-2009, 03:50 AM
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the top 2 rings are at 2 and 8 o'clock, the oil rings are at 5 and 11 o'clock. and i used castrol 10w40, changed it right after start up. then put same kind back in it, changed that after 500 miles.
04-09-2009, 03:57 AM
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okay.
(top compression) 2 o'clock and (lower compression) 8 o'clock are 180 degrees separated
(lower compresson) 8 o'clock to (top oil) 5 o'clock is only 90 degrees separated
(top oil) 5 o'clock to (lower oil) 11 o'clock is 180 separated
should have around 120 degrees between gaps.
Last edited by abecedarian; 04-09-2009 at 04:06 AM.
04-09-2009, 04:09 AM
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top is at 8, second is at 2, third is at 11 and fourth is at 5. i've checked the plugs and they don't show hardly any oil on them. i think somehow it's getting from valve cover to throttle body. i paid real close attention this morning and there no smoke at start up, if it was it was very very little.
04-09-2009, 04:21 AM
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okay,
top at 8, next at 2 is still 180 degrees, then 2 to 11 is 90 degrees, and 11 to 5 is 180 degrees
... recommended clocking is 120. Doesn't make a huge difference if you clock 'clockwise' or 'counter clockwise' as long as the gaps are 120 apart, give or take.
you're not going to show a lot of oil on the plugs- though there's a significant amount of oil being burned off, it's not enough to foul the plugs... it's more of a mist than anything and will burn rather cleanly. and whether it enters from the rings or intake won't make much of a difference since your compression is high enough to burn the oil.
top at 8, next at 2 is still 180 degrees, then 2 to 11 is 90 degrees, and 11 to 5 is 180 degrees
... recommended clocking is 120. Doesn't make a huge difference if you clock 'clockwise' or 'counter clockwise' as long as the gaps are 120 apart, give or take.
you're not going to show a lot of oil on the plugs- though there's a significant amount of oil being burned off, it's not enough to foul the plugs... it's more of a mist than anything and will burn rather cleanly. and whether it enters from the rings or intake won't make much of a difference since your compression is high enough to burn the oil.
Last edited by abecedarian; 04-09-2009 at 04:24 AM.
04-09-2009, 01:43 PM
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ok i talked to the machine shop today, he said i either got a ring upside down or the rings aint sealed. he gave me 2 options, 1 drain the water and let it get hot(the temp gauge has never been to half way up). 2 put it in second gear and go till bout 3000 rpm's then off gas and repeat for 5-7 miles. what ya'll think? he assured me if it turned out to be machine work he would take care of it. he even said if i put a ring upside down he would help me out on parts.
04-09-2009, 03:19 PM
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If it is running okay then I would try loading it up (2nd gear to 3 grand thing) then just drive it for another few thousand miles and see if it clears up. Unless you are anal about these kind of things. If thats the case you will have to get the pistons out.
04-09-2009, 05:49 PM
#20
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Sounds like your rings haven't seated yet. Sometimes you have to go find a really big mountain and drive up the thing, full throttle, full load, maximum speed.
When we build engines here, we warm the engine up, then go and ratbag on it. Seriously. Drive it like you stole it. Full throttle, full load, uphill. The only thing we hold back on is the top 1000 rpms of the tach. The corolla engines we build have a stock 7500 rpm rev limit, so we shift at 6000rpms until the oil consumption drops to normal.
For a 22r you might want to shift around 4500-ish. But full throttle once it's warmed up. And go up a big mountain.
When we build engines here, we warm the engine up, then go and ratbag on it. Seriously. Drive it like you stole it. Full throttle, full load, uphill. The only thing we hold back on is the top 1000 rpms of the tach. The corolla engines we build have a stock 7500 rpm rev limit, so we shift at 6000rpms until the oil consumption drops to normal.
For a 22r you might want to shift around 4500-ish. But full throttle once it's warmed up. And go up a big mountain.
