New leaf springs or weld used leaf spring pack?
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New leaf springs or weld used leaf spring pack? Zuk Mod on steroids! Pics pg 2.
Got a used set of 4 inch hybrid leaf pack off a 92 Pickup. I was wondering if you guys think if it was best to buy a new leaf pack or relocate my spring hangers and utilize the used leaf pack? This is going on to my 88 4runner, which is using the Zuk mod for the rears. Getting tired of the coils and want the leaf springs for its full potential. I know a new lead pack will set me back $300, but was wondering if welding was a cheaper alternative, let me know what your thoughts are, and thx in advance.
Last edited by 4runner_guy; 06-19-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#4
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Why not use your main leaf ( so you dont have to move the hanger ) and replace the rest of the leaf pack with the set of hybrids, and cut to length if needed. And if youre not happy with that, then get new packs.
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I'm just saying is all. Don't really want to dish out $300 + for a set of leafs cause I'm on a budget also. Besides, I don't really see the difference from going with these hybrid set to going with a used set of 63" chevy. People seem to be fine with a used set of 63 and fabbing up a new set of spring hangers. Gonna try and replace the main leaves and just do a swap. The hybrid set (which consists of new leafs has less than 10,000 miles on them with the stock main leaves) still looks like its in "usable" condition. If all else fails, then ill look into a new leaf packs. Thx for the feedbacks!
Last edited by 4runner_guy; 06-14-2012 at 07:03 PM.
#7
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Why choose used springs? Because they're cheap. And when building on a budget, 300 is a alot. And yes they are used, aka broken in and fleeeeexy. As 4runner guy said why do you think people love RUFs and 63s? Add a couple leafs to the stock pack to help with the weight and add some height.
Last edited by rattlewagon; 06-14-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Hes not welding them on, he has to have a new front hanger welded on because they are 3" longer (51") than his current springs(48").
Why choose used springs? Because they're cheap. And when building on a budget, 300 is a alot. And yes they are used, aka broken in and fleeeeexy. As 4runner guy said why do you think people love RUFs and 63s? Add a couple leafs to the stock pack to help with the weight and add some height.
Why choose used springs? Because they're cheap. And when building on a budget, 300 is a alot. And yes they are used, aka broken in and fleeeeexy. As 4runner guy said why do you think people love RUFs and 63s? Add a couple leafs to the stock pack to help with the weight and add some height.
#9
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I was confused by your first post.
You are putting them on the front doing a SAS is this correct??
I looked at this like you were trying to repair broken rear springs which made no sense.
You were quoted $300.00 just to move spring hangers?? Or this price was to do the whole Job??
You are putting them on the front doing a SAS is this correct??
I looked at this like you were trying to repair broken rear springs which made no sense.
You were quoted $300.00 just to move spring hangers?? Or this price was to do the whole Job??
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You are using '92 leafs on an '88?
So... your 88 has a ProComp 4" lift up front. Okay. Out back, if you don't want lift blocks, ProComp 33111 leafs are what you should have. If it is a little low for your liking, as in the front is too high, longer shackles can fix that.
So... your 88 has a ProComp 4" lift up front. Okay. Out back, if you don't want lift blocks, ProComp 33111 leafs are what you should have. If it is a little low for your liking, as in the front is too high, longer shackles can fix that.
Last edited by abecedarian; 06-15-2012 at 08:53 PM.
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I was confused by your first post.
You are putting them on the front doing a SAS is this correct??
I looked at this like you were trying to repair broken rear springs which made no sense.
You were quoted $300.00 just to move spring hangers?? Or this price was to do the whole Job??
You are putting them on the front doing a SAS is this correct??
I looked at this like you were trying to repair broken rear springs which made no sense.
You were quoted $300.00 just to move spring hangers?? Or this price was to do the whole Job??
You are using '92 leafs on an '88?
So... your 88 has a ProComp 4" lift up front. Okay. Out back, if you don't want lift blocks, ProComp 33111 leafs are what you should have. If it is a little low for your liking, as in the front is too high, longer shackles can fix that.
So... your 88 has a ProComp 4" lift up front. Okay. Out back, if you don't want lift blocks, ProComp 33111 leafs are what you should have. If it is a little low for your liking, as in the front is too high, longer shackles can fix that.
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>snip<
Yes sir, I have the PC 4" lift and would like to stay away from the lift blocks, I'd be a lot more comfortable using my Zuk mod vs the lift blocks any day. I'm gonna mess with the leaf packs and see what type of lift I can obtain since I already have the Marlin 6" greasable shackles. Might have to remove a leaf or maybe even a few to get the right height from the rear to either match with the fronts or maybe have it sit a little higher when I have the top back on to make it sit even and flush. We'll see, I'll post pics when the finished product is all said and done.
You are using '92 leafs on an '88?
So... your 88 has a ProComp 4" lift up front. Okay. Out back, if you don't want lift blocks, ProComp 33111 leafs are what you should have. If it is a little low for your liking, as in the front is too high, longer shackles can fix that.
So... your 88 has a ProComp 4" lift up front. Okay. Out back, if you don't want lift blocks, ProComp 33111 leafs are what you should have. If it is a little low for your liking, as in the front is too high, longer shackles can fix that.
I ended up installing longer shackles as well 'cause it ended up a little lower in the back than I wanted- I don't like the pre-runner, nose in the air look.
The springs come with a 4 degree shim pre-installed to point the pinion up at the transmission to lessen u-joint angles, but I found with the longer shackles the shims had to be removed 'cause the shackles rotated the axle enough to not need the shims. With the shims and shackles, the pinion pointed straight at the transfer case- no angle at all on the u-joint there, and that left the forward u-joint binding. I could've installed a cardan joint at the transfer case but it was cheaper to remove the shims.
Hope that helps.
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I admit they work great on a stock suspension vehicle but can limit what a vehicle with a suspension lift (like the OP has) can do.
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Depending on various things, the Zuk mod could limit axle travel and articulation. Since the coils mount on top of the axle, and below the bump stop, you can only compress the suspension until the coils are completely compressed.
I admit they work great on a stock suspension vehicle but can limit what a vehicle with a suspension lift (like the OP has) can do.
I admit they work great on a stock suspension vehicle but can limit what a vehicle with a suspension lift (like the OP has) can do.
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There's something to be said about someone willing to take chances and learn from their mistakes. The smart money however is put on people that learn from others' mistakes... umm, I mean experiments.
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Hopefully in the near future I'll have the funds to do a SAS and 63 chebbies in the rear.....until then, stay tuned.
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LOL, thanks for the light encouragement. Forgot to mention that my TB are cranked up an inch, which I know that's frowned upon so maybe it's time to lower them so I can level it out the CORRECT way.
Hopefully in the near future I'll have the funds to do a SAS and 63 chebbies in the rear.....until then, stay tuned.
Hopefully in the near future I'll have the funds to do a SAS and 63 chebbies in the rear.....until then, stay tuned.
Like you, I have funding issues, but my hopes and dreams are maxing out the IFS. I've already installed the 4" bracket (ProComp) and the 33111 rear springs and longer shackles. Next will probably be TC long travel, and a T100 rear axle (so the rear track width is close to the front) and figure out what to do to add lift to the rear to match the front- probably a spacer / ladder bar combo... but who knows.
Last time I got close to my goal, a new president was elected and I lost my job, and haven't had consistant work since.