New Exhaust: O2 Sensor Flange Mount or Thread?
#1
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New Exhaust: O2 Sensor Flange Mount or Thread?
I'm getting ready to build a new exhaust for my 22RE powered '89 (early) 4runner. The O2 sensor is mounted on the existing exhaust pipe with a two bolt flange. I haven't seen any such flanges for sale anywhere. My existing sensor (4 wire) seems to be working fine so I'd like to reuse it. Any way to get a two bolt flange mount for my new pipe of make my sensor work with a threaded bung? I can't salvage the old flange. It's too rusty. -- Matt
#2
LOOK ON the exhaust manifold , is there a pot for the O2 sensor that is pluge up? Some models had two o2
s/ I just put one in my header to fix a siezed o2 and it works buetifully.I cut the wire off the old one and rerouted the wire harness to mate up to the header O2 sensor.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...8-22re-149781/
s/ I just put one in my header to fix a siezed o2 and it works buetifully.I cut the wire off the old one and rerouted the wire harness to mate up to the header O2 sensor.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...8-22re-149781/
Last edited by Evil.Dingo; 07-26-2008 at 07:10 PM.
#3
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Nice job. I never would have thought of that, but I did find this custom bung for sale at Slee Offroad. It's $27.50 though, so i might still try to make one. Thank you.
Last edited by wrenchtech; 07-27-2008 at 06:56 PM.
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the implication was that there is a spot on the factory exhaust manifold with room to drill out and tap for either a single-wire thread-in O2 sensor or with a larger center hole and drill and tap for the 2 studs for a flange-mounted O2 sensor. Every factory exhaust manifold has the 'reserved' area for it.
#7
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I started with a piece of 3/8 steel and marked the outline with a gasket and drilled and tapped some holes (8mm x 1.25):
I used some exhaust studs from the dealer that were left over.
Then I started cutting it out with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder:
After using a grinder and beltsander to smooth it out:
Now that was one bung, but I need two for the 5VZ. The first one took me about 2-3 hours to make so I decided to try cutting an old one out of my old 3.0 exhaust pipe and using it. That took about 2-3 hours too, counting replacing the old studs and smoothing it out with a grinder and beltsander too.
Here's the two side by side, the one I made from scratch will have to be welded in parallel to the pipe since it's not curved to the shape of the pipe:
Had Slee been selling them back when I made these, I'd probably have bought theirs.
I used some exhaust studs from the dealer that were left over.
Then I started cutting it out with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder:
After using a grinder and beltsander to smooth it out:
Now that was one bung, but I need two for the 5VZ. The first one took me about 2-3 hours to make so I decided to try cutting an old one out of my old 3.0 exhaust pipe and using it. That took about 2-3 hours too, counting replacing the old studs and smoothing it out with a grinder and beltsander too.
Here's the two side by side, the one I made from scratch will have to be welded in parallel to the pipe since it's not curved to the shape of the pipe:
Had Slee been selling them back when I made these, I'd probably have bought theirs.
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#9
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When I bought mine it came with a flange.... $47 for the two-wire no connector type or $80 for one with a connector on it (no soldering required).
Auto Value had it.
Auto Value had it.
#10
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Thread Starter
I started with a piece of 3/8 steel and marked the outline with a gasket and drilled and tapped some holes (8mm x 1.25)
Then I started cutting it out with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder:
After using a grinder and beltsander to smooth it out: ...
Had Slee been selling them back when I made these, I'd probably have bought theirs.
Then I started cutting it out with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder:
After using a grinder and beltsander to smooth it out: ...
Had Slee been selling them back when I made these, I'd probably have bought theirs.
Mt Goat you are the man (at least I assume you are a man)!! I am going to follow your example and go you one better by making mine out of 3/4" stock and grinding the bottom to give it more of a saddle contour that will let it sit snuggly on the pipe. It sure would be nice to have a machine tool to make that contour, but I can probably rough it in with an angle grinder and finish it with a file. -- Matt
Last edited by wrenchtech; 07-28-2008 at 07:24 PM.
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