My99

Well, what started out as a headgasket replacement has become a full blown overhaul complete with new bottom end bearings, head work, water pump, oil pump, etc.

So I finally got the engine installed tonight, but couldn't get it started. I notice I have some seepage coming from where the fuel feed line hooks to the fuel rail, so I'll be going by the dealer tomorrow to get some new crush washers there. It turns over and sounds very normal. One thing of note - if I let it sit for about 5 minutes or so and then crank, it'll turn over twice and then kind of sound like it's about to fire, but then immediately goes back to the ole "no fire" cadence. It only does it on about the 3rd turn-over, and only after it's set for 5+ minutes since last crank.

I think I have the timing right, as I referred to the FSM and my original pictures before I pulled the distributor out. I replaced the timing chain, and am 100% sure I put the new one on correctly.

What I'm not 100% sure of are a couple of pictures below. The first picture is taken right at the thermostat housing. There's a white/beige plastic cylinder sticking up there with a couple of hoses running off of it. I'm wondering if there's supposed to be a cap there or what.

The next picture I'm focused on the do-hickey to the left of the cold start injector. The top of this thing has a coil spring type piece wrapped around it. On the bottom you can see a shiny nipple - Can someone please tell me where your hose runs to from this nipple?






Anyway, not sure if this has anything to do with the truck not starting, but if you have ideas for any of the aforementioned issues, your input would be greatly appreciated. I can't wait to get this thing back on the road. Down for almost 2 months!

Thanks,
Kyle

iamsuperbleeder

well, just a first though, sounds like it may be flooding the motor out; have you pulled the plugs yet to see if their wet with gas?

What you refer to as "a white/beige plastic cylinder sticking up", I'm not 100% what exactly it does, but I know that the truck will start no prob with both the hoses unhooked.

The "do-hickey to the left of the cold start injector" is you idle up valve and it also shouldn't make it any harder to start the truck. All its purpose is to step the throttle up a bit when you turn ur AC on or when you put some force to the PS pump by turning the wheel.

Always start with the basics though.

1) Are you getting spark?
2) Are you getting gas?
3) Are you for some reason getting too much gas?

If it is flooding, it's probably more than likely a sensor somewhere. Could be the cold start injector sticking open, could be the AFM for some reason stuck open (common if the reason you did the rebuild is if you dipped her under mudding water), it's hard to say.

Supra 4x4

Have you checked for codes? The a/c idle up has a vacuum line on the bottom, should crank and run without it but any vacuum leak will affect it after it's running. The other part you asked about just has a little cap, it's kind of like a breather. As mentioned in the other post, start with the basics. In a computer controlled truck check for codes, check all of your fuses, make sure it is getting fuel and spark.

thook

In the first pic, that's the bimetal switching valve for the EGR. It opens to draw air through the "would be" cap from the atmosphere as the coolant temp heats. Follow the vac lines that run from it. You'll see where it goes....that is, if you have them hooked up. Oh, and it won't do a damn thing to hinder or help starting.

The second pic....that nipple is for a hose that runs to the A/C vacuum switching valve on top and upfront of the valve cover. Pretty sure it goes to the nipple on the VSV furthest from the valve body. I can verify that tomorrow. Again, no help or hinderance.

My 4rnr was very difficult to get going at first. You have to let fuel pressure build up in the lines first, of course, before it will fire. Make sure your cold start injector and timing switch are hooked up. Keep trying. If it sounds like it wants to fire, it probably will...eventually. Hopefully you don't have any "major" vacuum leaks. Won't help at all. I was a ding-bat and didn't hook my break booster line back up. Pffffft!

ahickman

Have you run through the range of the distributor, rotating it from one extreme to the other in 1/8" increments? I built up a 22re last summer and had a heck of a time getting it started at first. Much like you describe, it periodically gave signs of kicking over. I had been moving the distributer too much (1/4" or more) and moved right past the sweet spot. Amazed at how sensitive the position of the distributor was on an otherwise forgiving motor.

My99

I pulled two plugs and had no sign of fuel (no gas smell) yet likeni sId I could see fuel seepage where the feed lime connects to the rail. Could air somehow build up in the fuel line/rail and make this happen? I did have my injectors sent off and cleaned.

thook

No.....air couldn't build up if you had leak. Fuel and air would be able to escape. But, you couldn't build very good pressure, either. Normally, I'd say a small leak wouldn't be a problem. I've had 'em a time or two and my vehicles still ran. But, it may be contributing to your difficulty starting. ahickman has a good point, too.

Do you have the fuel filter running the right direction or the fuel lines going to it? Maybe pull the cold start injector off of the plenum and see if it's injecting fuel. Put a rag over it and crank the key a couple of times. The rag should have fuel on it.

abecedarian

Is it possible you got the fuel supply and return lines are crossed up? I don't think it'd work, pumping into the back of the regulator.

My99

Fuel supply and return lines crossed? Don't think so. Feed line comes from the fuel filter with a hard pipe that connects to the feed rail. Return line runs from the fuel pressure regulator back down agains the fire wall... if I have them correct.

Pulled the cold start injector and I have fuel squirting out of there like no tomorrow. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the cylinders thinking that I could get it to run for a bit. No go. Wouldn't even fire for a moment. So that's strange, because before I sprayed the carb cleaner in there I checked all 4 spark plugs and they were all dry...

SO I did get a backfire through the intake I've tried adjusting the distributor throughout the range to no avail so far. Not really sure what to think now. I think I'll get the timing light out and give that process a try. Maybe I can at least get rid of one variable that way...

abecedarian

Hmm... distributor 180 degrees out?

ahickman

hate to ask the obvious, but have you checked the valves? 0.008 intake and 0.012 on exhaust. Do you have compression on all four cylinders?

TOYOTA 1

exactly what i was thinking.

abecedarian

Take the valve cover off, turn the crank till the mark points to 0 and make sure the #1 valves are loose. If not, rotate the crank 1 turn and then remove the distributor cap, noting where the #1 cylinder terminal is at then remove the distributor and re-insert it so that the rotor points at that terminal.

My99

What's wierd is I put the distributor in with the engine at TDC (as soon as I got the timing chain on & lined up) with both the crank and the cam in the 12 oclock position. I then slid the distributor in at ~12 oclock and it rotated into positiong. So to be 180 out confuses me.

Here's a picture of the distributor and cap. I'd like your opinions as to if everything looks normal. I'm assuming it is, because it ran fine before I took it off.






Also, here's a quick video of what it sounds like when starting. It also did back-fire another time or two ...through the intake, not the exhaust.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUS90yvqR8U

Thanks

abecedarian

You CANNOT just set the distributor to 12 o'clock. As I mentioned you have to note which terminal on the distributor cap goes to the #1 cylinder and make sure the rotor points at that direction. You can see from the photo attached that my #1 cylinder post on the distributor cap is not at 12 o'clock

abecedarian

Actually, if you look at that first photo you posted, you'll see the ignition pick-up rotor underneath the ignition rotor. You'll see it's got 4 points arranged around it kind of making it look like a square with pinched-in sides.
Pull the distributor out and rotate the shaft about 45 degrees counter-clockwise, or until the point just to the left of the distributor/ignition rotor points directly at the little black piece of plastic between the red and white wires and the distributor shaft, or almost at the screw that holds the connector mounting bracket, top left of the picture.

PM me and I'll be willing to help.

wowza025

iTrader: (1)

I just went through the same thing when I rebuilt my 22re a month ago...

As stated, start with basics, but also look into plug wires, correct on both the plugs as well as distrubitor in firing order. When I did mine the timing took my many many times. Pulling out distributor, and trying again. If you have a timing gun, take advantage.

Also, I had the same problem with the leak on the pipe to the fuel rail. I went to the dealer, who wanted 3 bucks for each one of the crush washers. They said they would have had to order it and ship from Cali, and I didnt feel like waiting, so I stopped at Home Depot on the way home and got brass washers for $.99 which are soft enough to crush and do the job.

Good Luck

Pedram88

Hey, Just try turning the rotor at a 45 degree from the head looking at it from the drivers side. Once you have it at Top Dead Center, you should put the distributor rotor facing up and out towards the front of the truck. If you don't get what I'm saying... look at it as a clock. It should be pointing near 10:30 Am or Pm ...lol. Looking at it from the drivers side. Check for spark to. Take the plugs off and see if you get a spark. One at a time. Trust me I've been there twice, I learned not to mess with the timing to much.

myyota

From your video, it sounds like your timming is way off.

My99

Sorry guys didn't mean to imply that the picture was taken while the engine was at TDC. It certainly was not. .I was simply taking a picture of the distributor so you could see if i missed any glaring obvious issues with it. However I think I understand the jest of what you are saying. I will set it to tdc tonight and see what develops.