lil_red_yota

92 22re. I just got done putting a new cylinder head on the truck but now the truck won't start. When I turn the key switch all I hear is a clicking noise on the passenger side of the cab by the door and that is it. Everything is hooked up right all the grounds I undid are hooked back up. Starter really is good. All the fuses look good. I'm kinda lost right now.

I also did search a good bit before I posted this. Did find one thread that was similar but his was spinning over and not cranking.

justin_4runner

check the battery for 12 volts, and the cables for being loose,

lil_red_yota

Battery has 12 volts that was the first thing I did.

lil_red_yota

Battery cables are tight.

lil_red_yota

I can hear the starter relay ticking when I hit the key.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, ... sorry to hear, man... Very frustrating/scary after going through a bit of work.

BOTH Starter wires are connected? SECURELY? That's 99% the cause of what you're experiencing. The brown plug; I've THOUGHT, for certain, one time(after rebuilding), that I'd plugged the connector plug to the starter in securely..... I did not. Another time on another Toyota... Actually forgot the main power wire.

Gotta start there and just MAKE SURE, ya know? Then, if you're sure, and it's not 'CRANKING'(turning over and cranking are the same thing.... think you meant "turning over but not 'FIRING' " ....... Then I would give the starter a good rap on the body... See if it's just a frozen up Solenoid... If that didn't work, I'd pull the starter and have it tested.

PS> Also be sure that ALL grounds are connected again... One to the block/one to the fenderwall behind and next to the batter/ the one to the intake and the one from the head block plate to the FIREWALL in back.(back of the head). Only 1(2?) will cause your problem... but why not check em all, right?

lil_red_yota

Crawled under the truck to give the starter a lil tap and that brown plug you where talking about was half way unplugged. Prolly came undone when I was pulling on the harness a lil bit. Thanks for the help.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YEAHHHHHHHH, BOOOOOOOOOOOEEEEY! hahaha... NOW THAT'S what it's all about! Glad you didn't have to spend days searching! ahahha. And, ... that's what makes Yotatech so great..... No one came here and said, 'HEY, YOUR'E A F-C----- a-------, STUPID NEWB, --------- , -------, )#t)#)@ !!!!!!!" .... etc., etc., etc.! hahahaha.

Congratz, man... So, ..just to be sure, so I'm not making a total OOPS of myself.... IT'S FIXED? hahaha.

lil_red_yota

Lol. Now I'm not getting fuel. Nothing happens when I jump the fp and +b in the lil diag box.

lil_red_yota

So all the relays under the hood are good all the fuses are good. I read that the relay behind the passenger side kick panel is usually y the terminals in the diag box when jumped don't do anything.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

DANGIT! haha... Freakin Gremlins, man... persistent lil buggers!

Well, .... first things first. ARE YOU SURE the AFM is plugged in all the way? NO AFM, NO FUEL PUMP Go-Go..... ( But I thought it could be bypassed using the jumper trick... Hmmm ) Also, the relay you're speaking of is the 'C.O.R.'(Circuit Open Relay).... Comes in as the Key goes from STA to ON(?), and you can hear it click.

Also, the LONGGGGG wire traveling over the motor to the Ignitor? Another one people forget and wind up finding. I THINK you can get some spark with it disconnected.... but NO fuel... If harness wire is not connected to the ignitor, it will not allow the injectors to fire(I think.... again, haha).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Before ALL of this.... Check the 15A "EFI" fuse in the DRIVER SIDE kick panel to be sure you haven't shorted something/or it just didn't coincidentally blow?

lil_red_yota

Checked the the efi fuse and even changed it just to make sure and it was good. The cor is working. Afm as in mass air flow sensor? If so it's plugged in. What wire are you talking about? There's a plug that comes from over by the coil to the distributor.

scope103

Hold on. The FP-B+ connection goes right to the fuel pump from the EFI fuse. It has nothing to do with the COR or the VAF (indeed, it's purpose is to bypass them). So first check to see if you have 12v on the B+ terminal with a voltmeter. (No voltmeter? No excuse for that! http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html) If you don't have voltage there nothing will work; there's something broken in the EFI circuit (check for voltage at the fuse; if nothing there, you might have taken out the 30A fuse).

If 12v to the FP terminal doesn't start the pump, you could have a dead pump. But I'd trace the wires as far as I could first. With key OFF check resistance to ground on FP. That's through the pump and should be less than 10ohms. If it's very high (more than, oh, 2k) you've got a broken wire or an open pump.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/fuelpump.pdf

lil_red_yota

Started smelling fuel so I loosened the bolt that lil fuel line goes up to the intake to see if fuel came out now and I got fuel. But still not actually running. May check the Timeing for the 4th time.

lil_red_yota

Where do I set the Timeing mark on the crank at when I put the cam gear and chain on?

lil_red_yota

So read a lot of stuff got the Timeing right still dosent sound right when spinning over but everything is checking out to be correct. Getting very lil fuel comeing out of the line that goes up to the intake. I'm feeling like I'm hitting a dead end almost.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, sorry man,..... been consumed in a bit of a crises over here......

The marks are 6-Oclock dead on, on the crank(timing sprocket dimple/mark and shiny link) and 11:59 on the cam sprocket and shiny link.(The larger timing KNOB on the gear, more toward the center, should be DEAD ON 12-Oclock/ but the dimple toward the teeth of the gear should be at 11:59 with the shiny link over that smaller dimple.

LOTS of threads on here with LOTS of pics on this.... Including mine, Irab's, 4crawler(probably the best one).....

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

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Not getting fuel to the rail can only be that one/maybe two of a few things. You've got quite a list on that, right? But first, make sure the timing is as I said(as in the pictures on the 4crawler step-by-step)

1. Check C.O.R. and fuel bypass procedures TO BE SURE you're doing it all right/not missing anything(especially an unplugged MAF/VAFM WHATEVER it's called on your rig)

2. Check wiring/connector at fuel pump. Sometimes, when mechanics do the work(Not saying they did, just asking), they'll unplug the fuel pump to prevent, ......'accidents', ya know?

3. Make sure the LONGGGGG wire, not the short one from the dizzy to the coil... the LONG ONE that comes up out of the plenum/from the harness, then travels OVER THE ENTIRE motor, from passenger side to driver side, then plugs INTO the Ignitor. If that is unplugged... YOU WILL NOT have injectors firing(I'm guessing that wire is on your year. Should be... I'll check around, but I can show you a picture if you want.. Just gotta find a good one, ya know?)

Check to see you're getting 12V AT the fuel pump, for sure! (Heck, make sure it's not charging up pressure for sure, as well... Not sure if you're saying "THE FUEL PUMP IS NOT kicking on".... Should be able to run that bypass test and get it to run on.
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Scope, .... I only mentioned the AFM/MAF/VAFM, whatever his might be, because the fuel pump circuit/loop is made complete, partially by the opening of the VANE in the AFM/MAF/VAFM. I've seen 10 people now, at least, forget to reconnect their AFM's/MAF's.... VOILA, fuel pump is back the second they plug it back in. Same with the Ignitor wire... While it wont cut the fuel via the pump... IT WILL stop the injectors from firing. I enjoy when people tell me when I have something wrong.. I WANT to learn, hahaha.. So please, lemme know if I don't have that straight. I also THINK I know(hahaha) that the C.O.Relay is the lil bugger that is clicking away above the ECU when I'm starting her up... From STA to ON it's completing that circuit via the IGN key and AFM/MAF/VAFM....
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Some quick testing on the fuel pump and other "how things work" diagrams and such, right here.....

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

lil_red_yota

I read the 4crawler article earlier. But I also read another one that said the crank mark needs to be lined up with the 0 Timeing mark. Is that correct? Cause that's how I have it setup and it still sounds off.

I think the fuelp pump is pumping just not creating adequate pressure to do anything. I was looking for the cor relay but I guess I wasn't looking hard enough. How would I go about testing it? Sorry if I'm getting u confused on the arm and mass air. I'm just use to hearing it called a mass air. Which its plugged in. Fuel pump shouldn't have been disconnected cause I never messed with it. Prolly need a pic of this wire.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Oh yes, as far as installing the chain.. If you're talking about the CRANK PULLEY needs to be at 0*BTDC/Crank GEAR marking and shiny link at 6 Oclock, CAM gear LARGE notch at 12 and cam gear dimple and shiny link at 11:59... Then that is correct. You wont the front and rear pistons at the TIPPPPPPPPPPPPPY top! haha. The Cog key would be at 12oclock(the slot in the crank pulley that slides over the crank cog key and crank itself should be at 12... But the chain link and marking on the crank timing DRIVE GEAR, ...well that should be at 6). I'm sure you did it according to instructions.

Anyway, the LONG wire, ... as long as your 22RE has an ignitor that tells the injectors when to fire.... then it should have that wire. I've not worked on many newer than 89... And mostly worked on my 87 and 86's for the last 12 years. Simple question.... You have 2 connectors at your Ignitor? If so, and they're both plugged in the right place... You should be good to go on spark and injector timing. (See, that's it, ...I'm not positive that the injector timing is done the same way on newer models... I'd have to check into that/wait for someone to chime in, ya know?)

Lemme look for a pic......

I know as they got newer they went to a MAF and then VAFM? Or maybe the other was first? Either way, YOU KNOW WHAT IT IS AND DOES, so nevermind, hahahaha. I hear ya... it's the air intake thingymadoer!