New Clutch won't work
04-06-2009, 08:11 AM
#1
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New Clutch won't work
Hey guys I hope that you can help...
I have a 91 4x4 PU with a 3VZE that I just replaced and replaced the clutch at the same time. Started the engine and timed/tuned it and decided to take it for a test drive. and the new clutch would not disengage the gearbox. After much pulling of hair and mashing of teeth I figured that I must have installed the clutch disk backwards. UGH!
So I drop the gear box and sure enough its in backwards. I swap it around and bolt everything back up. start the truck and the clutch still behaves like a worn out unit, not a brand new disk.
I bled the MC and slave cylinder, replaced the slave cylinder. I checked the pedal height and MC rod free play.
As i obsessed about this last night, it remembered that as I torqued the pressure plate bolts the "fingers" on the diaphram went from sticking out at about a 30 degree angle to about 15 degrees after the pressure plate was completely torqued. Could this be caused by:
a - Any damage caused by incorrect installation
b - incorrect clutch kit - I did purchase a complete kit.
Your input is really appreciated!
Best,
Jereme
I have a 91 4x4 PU with a 3VZE that I just replaced and replaced the clutch at the same time. Started the engine and timed/tuned it and decided to take it for a test drive. and the new clutch would not disengage the gearbox. After much pulling of hair and mashing of teeth I figured that I must have installed the clutch disk backwards. UGH!
So I drop the gear box and sure enough its in backwards. I swap it around and bolt everything back up. start the truck and the clutch still behaves like a worn out unit, not a brand new disk.
I bled the MC and slave cylinder, replaced the slave cylinder. I checked the pedal height and MC rod free play.
As i obsessed about this last night, it remembered that as I torqued the pressure plate bolts the "fingers" on the diaphram went from sticking out at about a 30 degree angle to about 15 degrees after the pressure plate was completely torqued. Could this be caused by:
a - Any damage caused by incorrect installation
b - incorrect clutch kit - I did purchase a complete kit.
Your input is really appreciated!
Best,
Jereme
04-06-2009, 08:17 AM
#2
The fingers should go from sticking way out, to quite far in. This is normal. Installing the clutch plate backwards could have caused damage, but you would have seen it when you pulled it all back apart.
If the clutch is not disengaging, that is a problem with the MC, or the Slave cylinder. It is possible that the master is blown, even though it seems to have good pressure.
If the clutch is not disengaging, that is a problem with the MC, or the Slave cylinder. It is possible that the master is blown, even though it seems to have good pressure.
04-06-2009, 08:23 AM
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04-06-2009, 08:23 AM
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THanks DeathCoug.
I will swap out the MC today. I really don't want to yank the gearbox again. And the disk was not physically damaged from my mistake. It still had the paint marks on it indicating which direction to install. I swear I'm not an idiot... But I sure play the part somtimes! lol.
Jereme
I will swap out the MC today. I really don't want to yank the gearbox again. And the disk was not physically damaged from my mistake. It still had the paint marks on it indicating which direction to install. I swear I'm not an idiot... But I sure play the part somtimes! lol.
Jereme
04-06-2009, 08:26 AM
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Marc,
When I push in the clutch I get just enough disengagment from the gearbox to push into gear without grinding, but it takes effort and it never really unloads the engine when idleing in gear.
Thanks,
Jereme
When I push in the clutch I get just enough disengagment from the gearbox to push into gear without grinding, but it takes effort and it never really unloads the engine when idleing in gear.
Thanks,
Jereme
04-06-2009, 09:47 AM
#6
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Ok, that's not how a worn out unit acts up. If they're worn they slip.
Deathcougar is probably right.
Is it possible to watch the clutch lever linkage for enough movement while someone operates the pedal?
Deathcougar is probably right.
Is it possible to watch the clutch lever linkage for enough movement while someone operates the pedal?
04-06-2009, 10:01 AM
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Thanks Marc,
Yes I have watched the clutch fork move and it does not appear to be moving far enough... But there is no specification in my chilton's manual for the proper amount of travel.
Jereme
Yes I have watched the clutch fork move and it does not appear to be moving far enough... But there is no specification in my chilton's manual for the proper amount of travel.
Jereme
Last edited by redjet; 04-06-2009 at 10:01 AM. Reason: typo
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04-06-2009, 11:13 AM
#8
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might try readjusting the clutch pedal. Doesnt always work when set at factory spec. I'd adjust it so more of the rod is being forced into the MC.
Sounds like your just not getting enough fluid moving through the line from the MC to the slave to push the fork enough to disengage fully.
Sounds like your just not getting enough fluid moving through the line from the MC to the slave to push the fork enough to disengage fully.
04-06-2009, 11:45 AM
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X2..
Go under the dash to the clutch pedal and look at that rod and make sure it is adjusted properly. ALso make sure the brackets holding it to the firewall isn't broken, ive head some stories of that happening.
Go under the dash to the clutch pedal and look at that rod and make sure it is adjusted properly. ALso make sure the brackets holding it to the firewall isn't broken, ive head some stories of that happening.
04-07-2009, 12:24 PM
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Thanks everyone for the responses! Here is how it got fixed.
1. I bought a new master cylinder.
2. Got back home and read the rest of the advice and decided to adjust the MC pushrod all the way out to see how that effected the function of the clutch.
3. Noted a significant change in the operation. To the point that I realized that I over-adjusted the pushrod. So I spent 10 minutes getting it perfect.
4. Now I hope that Shucks will take the new MC back!
WooHoo! Thank you all for the advice!
Best,
Jereme
1. I bought a new master cylinder.
2. Got back home and read the rest of the advice and decided to adjust the MC pushrod all the way out to see how that effected the function of the clutch.
3. Noted a significant change in the operation. To the point that I realized that I over-adjusted the pushrod. So I spent 10 minutes getting it perfect.
4. Now I hope that Shucks will take the new MC back!
WooHoo! Thank you all for the advice!
Best,
Jereme
09-28-2009, 08:00 PM
#13
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Im having the same problem, but my mc is adjusted all the way out on the rod. So it's just a bad MC
When I did my clutch change, I replaced:
Tranny input shaft seal
Rear Main Seal
Pilot Bearing
Flywheel
Clutch Disc (in words it says 'flywheel side')
Pressure plate
Throwout bearing
Slave Cylinder
Master Cylinder
All that is left is that rubber hose haha.....
When I did my clutch change, I replaced:
Tranny input shaft seal
Rear Main Seal
Pilot Bearing
Flywheel
Clutch Disc (in words it says 'flywheel side')
Pressure plate
Throwout bearing
Slave Cylinder
Master Cylinder
All that is left is that rubber hose haha.....
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