new clutch HELP
#1
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new clutch HELP
Ok i took on the task of replacing my clutch myself with my cousin i have new clutch kit with bearings and all. Just unbolted everything and am about to drop tranny with cross member attached (4in suspension lift with 2in body so should have plenty of room). As we speak tranny is on jack under truck but cant get it to break loose from engine. Yes all bell housing bolts are off as well as necessary parts ie: starter drive lines etc. Any tips to breaking it loose?
Also i am replacing oil pan gasket and tranny mounts while im in there. I was thinking about rear main seal. Is it hard to replace?
Also i am replacing oil pan gasket and tranny mounts while im in there. I was thinking about rear main seal. Is it hard to replace?
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The tranny has to slide back a good few inches to clear the clutch. I used a pry bar on the sides to help. It doesn't slide apart very well by itself. If you're having trouble getting it apart, wait until to try to get it lined back up and together again. Replacing the rear main isn't difficult at all, once everything is out of the way.
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The tranny has to slide back a good few inches to clear the clutch. I used a pry bar on the sides to help. It doesn't slide apart very well by itself. If you're having trouble getting it apart, wait until to try to get it lined back up and together again. Replacing the rear main isn't difficult at all, once everything is out of the way.
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The rear seal is actually not bad. You didn't mention if you had a 22RE or a 3VZE, but the process is the same (the oil seal retainer is the metal plate on the back of the engine, that holds the seal):
IF REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER IS REMOVED FROM
CYLINDER BLOCK (Replacement of rear oil seal)
(a) Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seal.
(b) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(c) Using SST, install the oil seal.
SST 09223–41020
IF REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER IS INSTALLED ON CYLINDER
BLOCK (Replacement of rear oil seal)
(a) Using a knife, cut off lip of oil seal.
(b) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Tape the screwdriver tip.
(c) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(d) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its
surface is flush with the rear oil seal retainer edge.
SST 09223–41020
The SST is a big disc, which is used to tap the seal in place.
Not sure if you have Harbor Freight around you, but they sell an 18 piece seal driver kit for $5.
IF REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER IS REMOVED FROM
CYLINDER BLOCK (Replacement of rear oil seal)
(a) Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seal.
(b) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(c) Using SST, install the oil seal.
SST 09223–41020
IF REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER IS INSTALLED ON CYLINDER
BLOCK (Replacement of rear oil seal)
(a) Using a knife, cut off lip of oil seal.
(b) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Tape the screwdriver tip.
(c) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(d) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its
surface is flush with the rear oil seal retainer edge.
SST 09223–41020
The SST is a big disc, which is used to tap the seal in place.
Not sure if you have Harbor Freight around you, but they sell an 18 piece seal driver kit for $5.
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#9
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Ya, pry bar will do the trick. Start with a small one, and go bigger. Also, pry some on one side, then the other. I think tilting it slightly may help as well, the engine has a tendancy to drop down in the back without the tranny holding it up. Don't tilt it to the point where the input shaft is holding any of the weight though.
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pry bar and about 4 inches lol
as for the rear main once the trany is out you'll see, drop the oil pan and go nuts on them 10MM bolts and take it out put new one in and pan back in and what not
oh i almost forgot you have to take the 47 hundred pound fly wheel off first thats where the fun is lol dont forget to use lock tight on the fly wheel when you put it back in
as for the rear main once the trany is out you'll see, drop the oil pan and go nuts on them 10MM bolts and take it out put new one in and pan back in and what not
oh i almost forgot you have to take the 47 hundred pound fly wheel off first thats where the fun is lol dont forget to use lock tight on the fly wheel when you put it back in
#11
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Hey, there is nothing wrong with that.
I had a total of three people trying to get mine off, two prying with pry bars, and one person pulling it from behind, and it still wouldn't come off after half an hour.
We had to go to my friends house and get a come-a-long, I ended up wrapping it around the t-case and the rear axle, only then did it come out.
I had a total of three people trying to get mine off, two prying with pry bars, and one person pulling it from behind, and it still wouldn't come off after half an hour.
We had to go to my friends house and get a come-a-long, I ended up wrapping it around the t-case and the rear axle, only then did it come out.
#12
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Make sense?
#13
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Hows the tranny? Now would be the time to replace the bearings and syncros if you can also (If high millage) Its easy to DIY if you have the ability and tools too!
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Well thanks all for the input. I got the tranny out and ready for install tomorrow. The clutch didnt look that bad, but since im in there im going to replace it. I went ahead and pulled my oil pan. That took longer than the tranny. damn rtv..lol. but i couldnt get the oil pan all the way out going to have to lift the engine. I thought since i hade a 4 in suspension lift it would slide out. Guess im not that lucky. Should all be put back togather tomorrow.
Oh and yeah not going to replace rear main due to its not leaking thought it was but was just oil from the pan.
Oh and yeah not going to replace rear main due to its not leaking thought it was but was just oil from the pan.
#15
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4700lb not even 30lbs!
Use a jack next time to lift the tranny to keep it better aligned while removing it for easier removal! It can be hard to take in and out but if you just unbolt and try to remove you have way more acting against it if you dont support it!
Make sense?
Use a jack next time to lift the tranny to keep it better aligned while removing it for easier removal! It can be hard to take in and out but if you just unbolt and try to remove you have way more acting against it if you dont support it!
Make sense?
#16
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Well thanks all for the input. I got the tranny out and ready for install tomorrow. The clutch didnt look that bad, but since im in there im going to replace it. I went ahead and pulled my oil pan. That took longer than the tranny. damn rtv..lol. but i couldnt get the oil pan all the way out going to have to lift the engine. I thought since i hade a 4 in suspension lift it would slide out. Guess im not that lucky. Should all be put back togather tomorrow.
Oh and yeah not going to replace rear main due to its not leaking thought it was but was just oil from the pan.
Oh and yeah not going to replace rear main due to its not leaking thought it was but was just oil from the pan.
I dont think IFS lifts help with dropping the pan but then again I SASed mine before I touched the IFS again!
RTV is a B*tch but great stuff!
Good luck the install!
#17
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I do know however that my 4.3 to my R150F goes together and comes apart with so much ease its not even funny! Must be the design somehow!
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#20
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I must have extra bolts then.. i replaced my motor mounts a littl over a month ago and i could have swore there were more than four bolts holding them on