New Build. Tapping noise and oil pressure light. Need Advice.
#1
New Build. Tapping noise and oil pressure light. Need Advice.
Hey guys. So I got my newly built 22RE running finally after figuring out my timing was 180 degrees off and initially it was running with no lights and very little noise. I took it for its first test drive and I started to notice a tap or a knock on decel and when driving around 2500 rpm to 3000 rpm or so. I also noticed that the oil pressure light was coming on at idle after the drive, but goes off when I give it gas.
I have a video here,
that you guys can watch to get an idea of what is going on.
So far the information I have to help diagnose is:
When checking the timing with a HF timing light, I noticed the mark would jump up and down about 1 degree in either direction of the desired timing. So when the jumper is in place, it would be between 4 and 6 degrees BTDC and when the jumper is out it is around 11 to 13 degrees BTDC. I am not sure if maybe this is because of the timing light or if there is an accepted range that it will move or not but I know timing issues can cause noise.
The temp would not get above just slightly off the bottom where you see in the video. I do have all new cooling components, radiator, water pump, hoses, ect... But sometimes cold engines make more noise so that is something.
When trying to initially start, I did quite a bit of cranking before figuring it was the timing. I did assemble it with Lucas Assembly Lube on all the appropriate parts and I used the oil recommended for break in by 22RE performance here http://www.22reperformance.com/faqs/...-break-in.html
I did an EGR delete.
I plastigauged all the tolerances of the crank shaft and all the rods, pistons, wrist pins, boring and honing, was done at a good machine shop. Everything was torqued down properly and in sequence so I would be super surprised if it was rod knock but it kind of sounds like it.
I tried to be as careful as I could during the build and went by the FSM and the Haynes manual but this is my first build so it is possible I made a mistake somewhere.
Before I go pulling it back out suspecting rod knock, what do you guys think?
I could really use some help here because I need this thing running.
I have a video here,
So far the information I have to help diagnose is:
When checking the timing with a HF timing light, I noticed the mark would jump up and down about 1 degree in either direction of the desired timing. So when the jumper is in place, it would be between 4 and 6 degrees BTDC and when the jumper is out it is around 11 to 13 degrees BTDC. I am not sure if maybe this is because of the timing light or if there is an accepted range that it will move or not but I know timing issues can cause noise.
The temp would not get above just slightly off the bottom where you see in the video. I do have all new cooling components, radiator, water pump, hoses, ect... But sometimes cold engines make more noise so that is something.
When trying to initially start, I did quite a bit of cranking before figuring it was the timing. I did assemble it with Lucas Assembly Lube on all the appropriate parts and I used the oil recommended for break in by 22RE performance here http://www.22reperformance.com/faqs/...-break-in.html
I did an EGR delete.
I plastigauged all the tolerances of the crank shaft and all the rods, pistons, wrist pins, boring and honing, was done at a good machine shop. Everything was torqued down properly and in sequence so I would be super surprised if it was rod knock but it kind of sounds like it.
I tried to be as careful as I could during the build and went by the FSM and the Haynes manual but this is my first build so it is possible I made a mistake somewhere.
Before I go pulling it back out suspecting rod knock, what do you guys think?
I could really use some help here because I need this thing running.
#2
Hey guys, so I did a valve adjustment to see if maybe it was valve noise.
I started it up and it had no noise at all and the oil pressure light was out.
I let it idle for a few minutes and once it started to get warm, the clacking started when I revved it and the oil pressure light started to flicker on at idle.
So the issue definitely has something to do with when the engine gets warm.
I started it up and it had no noise at all and the oil pressure light was out.
I let it idle for a few minutes and once it started to get warm, the clacking started when I revved it and the oil pressure light started to flicker on at idle.
So the issue definitely has something to do with when the engine gets warm.
#4
that doesn't sound like the rod knock noise that i've had with other engines... valves will make more noise when hot, because the clearance increases.
if you tighten the valve cover down too much it'll make some rocker-related noise.
is it idling at 750 rpm, with the jumper in?
if you tighten the valve cover down too much it'll make some rocker-related noise.
is it idling at 750 rpm, with the jumper in?
#5
that doesn't sound like the rod knock noise that i've had with other engines... valves will make more noise when hot, because the clearance increases.
if you tighten the valve cover down too much it'll make some rocker-related noise.
is it idling at 750 rpm, with the jumper in?
if you tighten the valve cover down too much it'll make some rocker-related noise.
is it idling at 750 rpm, with the jumper in?
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atoliver
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02-11-2016 01:03 PM