Rbinder88

Ok so this truck has been quite the adventure over the last few months for me. It's been nothing but blood sweat and tears since the beginning, oh and LOTS OF GREEN. This is my first thread but I've been going through everything on her for a few months and haven't seen anything like.
Heres the deal, I'm in Oregon and purchased this truck from someone from north Cali because he said he couldn't get it to pass the emissions tests. he said that he thought it had aftermarket crank.... but it didn't
crank that made caused it, so he sold it to me in because we don't have emissions. he said he had done some minor things to make it pass but it was always just over. he "said" it was a solid truck and he did drive it a couple hundred miles to deliver it to me.
well i got it and drove it about 5 times and had to pull off the freeway because oil was spraying from my dipstick!

It's all downhill from there, I pulled it apart and the 3rd cylinder was destroyed by a ring, took a nice chunk from the sleeve. almost nothing was worth keeping, I replaced all the accessories and alot of sensors.

I found a new small block that had not been bored, I had it bored and honed with a special laser tech machine that was measured to a .005 of a inch to the piston and ring assembled. I had the crank polished so it is like new. I kept the head but had it all redone, new valves, seals, cam.
My machinist builds NASCAR racing motors and owns his own race team. He ordered a nice rebuild kit for me that came with everything that I would need it was all ordered to spec . only thing that's the same inside is the rods and polished crank. I put a new stage 1 clutch and dropped it in. I ran the motor at about 2k RPMs for about 20-30 min like instructed to break in the new cam, It was smoking so much. My machinist said to drive it from 30-60mph 10 times. I did and it cleared out most of the smoke. it just always puffed when i downshifted.
It ran great for about 20 miles or so. then i parked if for a day. when I started it up it blew the gasket behind the head. I took off my intake and replaced it, I'm sure it was because the bolts had come loose.
I re-torqued the head bolts and adjusted the valve gaps.
I finally got it back together and broke the coolant tube bold that bolts into the intake. took it all apart and have it all about back together. thatch tomorrows project.
Then I found the exhaust manifold had like 4 cracks in it so i just found a replacement, I need to clean it up an put it back on,

TO THE POINT...

So when I had it together and running the first and second time, it seems to be spewing oil into the exhaust. it's all clean, no water or flakes. My mechanic said it would be normal at first because its burning all the assembly lube and oil from it. but it seems like a lot. and I'm no longer speaking with him so I cant have him look at it I'm going to put it all back together tonight and tomorrow morning. I'm just worried something might happen, but I'm stuck at this point. I guess the only thing to do is fire it up and drive it again, hope the rings are seated and maybe it'll burn out the Oil.
Is there anything special I should know to break in the the motor properly. Like my mechanic said to use synthetic oil. But my local part store said not when breaking it in...

I just need some help or advice.... anybody got anything.

xxxtreme22r

the mechanic is an idiot if he told you to use a synthetic oil during the first 5000-6000 miles after a rebuild. Anyone who builds motors knows this. Many many drawbacks using synthetic oil during break in. But in short how is the engines brand new metal parts gonna wear themselves in if your adding an oil that is designed not to allow parts to wear.

Yes manufactures like BWM, AUDI, PORSCHE etc etc use synthetic oil right out of the assembly plant, but most of these engines are already broken in before they are even put into the vehicle during assembly, and these yota motors aren't nearly built to the quality and specs of a BMW,AUDI or PORSCHE.

Any oil on the cyl walls etc etc should have been burned off during the first 30 minutes of cam breakin. If not sooner.

Rbinder88

Ok, so the oil is empty now anyway, so I'll make sure sure not to use synthetic again for awile. do you think it could have damaged anything using that oil at first?

xxxtreme22r

i don't think it would damage anything really, just might take a heck of alot longer to seat rings, and maybe wear the cam a little wrong if a new cam was used. It certainly wouldn't break anything though.

did this so called mechanic rebuild this motor? and it's still spewing oil out the exhaust? if so I'd be making him make it right. not just not talking to him.

BTW it is normal for a rebuilt engine to burn some oil till the rings seat, but it should not be enough to soak the exhaust as you describe.

Rbinder88

Ya he rebuilt just the motor. I should have had my machanist do it. I put the motor back in did everything else myself. So he's saying he wont back it because he didnt do the complete job. hopefully using the correct oil will help.

Hadmatt54

If you do a search on the subject you will find as much info saying that you can use synthetic oil to break in an engine as you will saying that you can't and I also know that there are people saying that using synthetic oil has everything to do with clearances as well as others who say it doesn't! I have heard one master technician say that it wasn't a clearance issue, but a additive issue. Despite all the precautions you take you never really get all of the crap out of an engine after a rebuild. This guy says that non-synthetic is better at getting all that crap to the oil filter where it is trapped.
Me I guess I'm old school, I grew up on North American V8's where good oil pressure was everything, then I moved to Japanese(Toyota) where oil volume was more of a concern than oil pressure. My 5m-ge in my 86 pickup scares the @%*&e out of me when it's idling, because it doesn't have hardly any oil pressure (Stock gauge), but one thing I do know is when I switched to synthetic for a year or so my oil pressure went down considerably and my synthetic oil got just as black after 3000 miles as the non-synthetic oil, fuel economy did not get any better, the engine didn't seem to work any better, so I didn't see any benifit and I switched back.
On your engine regardless of what you have done with it, it's still +20 year old technology. You used the existing crank, polished like new, but I bet you still had .0010- .0022" clearance on your main bearings once you got it back together. Your main bearing clearance is where your engine develops oil pressure and you can call me paranoid, but I like to see good oil pressure on the gauge, so if it were my engine, I would break it in with a high grade detergent non synthetic oil.
My personal opinion of course!

xxxtreme22r

then i would be letting everyone else in that area know this guy will not back his long blocks. there is absolutely nothing on the outside of that long block assembly that would leak oil into the cyls. With the exception of a bad PCV valve which again will not soak the exhaust.

I would report him to BBB as well for simply not backing the motor he built. even if the machine work was not done by him, he still assembled it. If he did not measure clearances and what not that's on him.

Sorry if it seems that I am ranting, just getting tired of idiot so called mechanics that do not back their stuff and do a piss poor job at that.

Also now that I think of it, someone on here had a similar issue not too long ago with oil blowing out the exhaust after a rebuild. Might wanna search for it.

Rbinder88

No not ranting at all, I've been trying not to. I have been letting people know. The lame part is that he doesn't have a shop and when he completed the work he was completing his last semester of his certification. But he has worked in a shop for 2 years and before this I had not head of one bad thing from several people who he did work for. I'm gonna get it back together and get him to look at it. He is a certified mechanic and he's done good work in the past without fail. he's been a friend for a wile and gave me a good deal. Our discrepancy is more "accountability related" then mechanical work. but there is a handful of flukes I had with him along the way that makes me question the work. My machinist cut the rings to have the right gap and bored to that spec.
I spoke to my local parts shop said to use non synthetic oil with an additive.

and to Hadmatt54, I don't know much about the clearances, but I do know my machinist knows his stuff, he didn't order any parts to it till was ready to go back together. so all the bearings and other parts were ordered with the differences in mind. there is no way it could fit back together more perfectly.

Rbinder88

ok so it's been a long wile since I've updated my post. as to everything above I've taken care of it. after lots of time and effort i drove it 2 blocks and blew the head gasket. then replaced it. I drove it for 15 min then re torqued the head and adjusted the valves. then it wouldent start. I found it was not getting any fuel. I replaced the fuel filter and still no pressure in the gas line. So i replaced the working fuel pump... it was getting weak anyway. so is where im stuck....
I get no power the the fuel pump when i try to start the engine. I figured I could run a positive line from the ignission to the fuel pump. So it powers on as soon as I turn the key. it turns, fires, then dies. Sounds like it's flooded out. I can let it sit for 1 min and it does the same all over again.
I was told I cant run the wire from ignition because the pump dosent need to start before it starts to turn over.
So what I really need to know is where exactly the positive wire runs into from the fuel pump. what relay or whatever.

Somebody please help

xxxtreme22r

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

GeeVee

wow, lots of work in that one.