yota81

Been wanting one of these for a while, and now I have my first IFS Toyota. 1986 SR5 22RE 5 speed. The wheels are turning for all types of mods...and that will happen, but need to baseline and repair a few things....and this being my first IFS and fuel injected Toyota, I've got a few questions...

Here she is, so many ideas and plans, had it a week....



Plans are 31x10.5x15 BFG AT or Goodyear Duratracs, AAL to replace the rear lift block, sliders, and new paint...thats the first round

How do I go about fixing this? I can move it up and down..



This is my oil pressure reading while at speed and under load....looks low? Fresh oil change and is full



Oil pressure at idle....




This is leaking, I tightened it some, it is better, but still drips. Are there some crush washers in there? Gotta fix this first, smells like gas all the time



Also, I need to know the bolt size and threads that hold the gas tank skidplate and the front IFS skidplate, have the plates but no hardware

Need some good cheap shocks for the rear (+ 2in from stock, the rears are too short now)....any brand/part numbers to look at?


Thanks, and I've been reading all I can about these trucks. I'll have some updates soon.

jarheadtex

Your first concern is a loose or used up tie-rod end. $20 at rockauto.

Im not sure how much stock I put in that oil pressure gauge. It looks low and may be. However, I would install a wet gauge.

The fuel rail leak is in fact probably due to the copper crush washer.

Congrats and Have fun!!! I love mine.
[IMG][/IMG]

yota81

thanks....now that I look at it closer, it is just a simple tie rod end

maybe someone can confirm that their oil pressure gauge reading is similar. There are no odd noises, and it is full of fresh oil.

i'll dive into the fuel leak this weekend, its supposed to warm up a bit

SoCal4Running

My 86 4Runners oil pressure at speed but not under any load is just a smidgen under half mark, at idle is is just a smidgen over the 1/4 mark.

What I would do is get a mechanical gauge (cheap or used) and tap it into the block. Believe their is a place at the motor mount in the passenger side to get a reading.

Inferno451

That's not a tie rod end, that's your idler arm. If it's worn out and sloppy you'll have to replace the entire thing, about $50 for a stronger than stock one from autozone. Part number FA5040. In the picture it looks like the nut holding it to the steering linkage has backed off and the stud is almost completely out, like someone left the cotter pin off the nut. As far as the gauges, all of them are HOPELESSLY inaccurate in these trucks. Notice they didn't even bother to put numbers on them. For what it's worth though, my freshly machined, personally built 22re has 10K miles on it and my oil gauge reads just the same as yours, if not a bit lower.

yota81

I looked at it some this afternoon....it looks like the tie rod end is loose (either worm out or the nut has backed off) I'll get to that. The idler arm seems to be tight, I've looked into the rebuild of it with the new bushings.

Thanks for the info on the oil pressure...i'll keep an eye on it.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest just doing a complete steering rebuild. The Idler Arms tend to get worn out as well, but it may have been replaced fairly recently, that is connected to the tie rod that you are showing. As far as bolts, I dont know the size right off. I get mine out of the bone yard and grab as many nuts and bolts as I can. From 79-94, I think all of the skid plate bolts were the same.

Oil pressure guages on these trucks are not the best. For the way I drive, part store shocks were great for me. Your driving plans will determine what you should get. Looking forward to seeing your build.

yota81

Checked the idler arm, everything is tight and the nut is on tight and the cotter pin is there, but the rod end boot is torn (gone) and is allowing the arm attached to it to move around. The part # at Autozone is FA1739, so I'll go that route. I don't plan on beating on it.

yota81

pardon my ignorance, but I want to replace my auto hubs with manual ones. Am I limited to manual hubs from only 86-95 trucks and 4 runners? Or would I be able to use solid axle manual hubs from say a 79-85 truck or land cruiser?

Thanks

Just did a little searching....think I found the answer..
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...yota-hubs.html

yota81

got the idler arm and fuel damper done.....hope all the rest of the fixes are that easy

yota81

does anyone make simple round or square tube sliders that don't stick out past the door? All the ones that are mass produced are way overkill and stick out too far. I don't need to use it as a step. I'll make some if I need to, but it would be much quicker and easier (since I live at an apt complex) to get some premade.

I've got some manual hubs to go on, just waiting on the 54mm nuts and lock washers to me.

Still don't know what the fix for the intermittent wipers is....so much conflicting info all over the net....guess I'll have to dive in

Now to track down the 'Click no start' issue

yota81

Another question....will a dome light from a second gen 4 runner bolt right up in place of my dome light? By looking on Ebay, it seems that the screw holes are close to the same

Thanks

RAD4Runner

It has been proven that on 1986-1988 22RE's supply side of starter relay contact is wired incorrectly.

Verify:

1. That your wiring is flawed according to this,
2. That your starter relay clicks but solenoid does not thunk,
3. OR that solenoid thunks but weakly (does not actuate all the way to close contacts well).
4. Use this troubleshooting jumper to be extra sure,

Then, you know you need to fix a Toyota OOPS common to mid-86's to 88's 22RE.

Here's the fix.

yota81

Thanks RAD, I've actually already read your entire thread and have planned to tackle those fixes. I had an 81 22R that had a weak starter, turned out to be the contacts, so I'll start there on this one.

RAD4Runner

If you do not have the dome light fixture anymore, have you considered just installing an LED strip or other LED fixture instead? It would not be too difficult to find a single-pole, double-throw, center-OFF switch that would same selection as stock switch (ON with door open, OFF, or forced ON). I know stock is nice but it would be difficult to make a stock fixture as bright as an LED strip.

BTW, nice color, ad good decision to get rid of the blocks- They're nothing but cosmetic. Upgrade leafs or even a Zuk would significantly improve your ride. And those rims are very popular! I have them, so do Terry and many other members... one on Catalina Island, CA. I've even seen them on many Landcruisers, too. Here's one in the Philippines (imported from Japan and converted to left-hand drive).

Best wishes with your build. Always nice to see another Toyota saved from the wrecking yard. Good for the environment.

yota81

I have the dome light, but the lens is cracked and the manual switch is broken. It still comes on with the door. I have wired up a LED strip into the dome light wiring so it comes on with the door, but wanted to fix the cosmetic issue of the factory dome light. On EBAY, there is a first gen dome light that is red and a 2nd gen that is grey. I have grey interior, the mounting holes look similar, and the wiring connnector looks the same. Plus the second gen is cheaper.

yota81

got some tires, manual hubs, slight rust repair...updated pics

31x10.5 BFG AT

Stevesk88

Looks goodman. I'm going to find a first gen runner or a second gen like yours for a daily. Wanna trade for a supra? Lol

Make sure you make a build thread in the 86-95 section!

yota81

I plan on detailing this more than I usually do.

Question.....I plan to get my injectors cleaned and that may solve my issue, but maybe there is something else to look out for. the truck runs great, no smoke. Idles good but a little high sometimes, but a blip of the throttle usually brings it down (from 1000 to 8-900) New plugs, wires, cap/rotor....A\C compressor has been taken off. Problem is that it is difficult to crank sometimes. It is warm here now, so I've not put much thought into the cold start switch, but does the cold start injector work even if it is 80 degrees outside (but the engine is 'cold') When I try to crank it, it either turns over and won't catch, or will catch but stumble around 4-500 rpms for a few seconds and then even out or cut off. When I go to restart it, it fires right up and runs fine. Cranking with a warm engine usually fires right up, but I've also had it stumble and cut off even with the engine hot. Should I start with the cold start injector or look somewhere else?

Thanks

osv

'86's use the early cold start warmup design, which sucks, and is expensive to repair.

'86's also use the early throttle body, not the later model straight throttle body.

you can fix all of that stuff at once, by swapping the intake system with the later model 22re throttle body/intake swap:
https://www.google.com/search?q=22re...m=122&ie=UTF-8

can you locate a later model 22re back there? swap it out, and see if it helps with the starting issue.

fwiw, i was able to re-use the '86 throttle cable system, by using a die grinder to cut off maybe 1/4" of the wire, and fastening it up with a pep boys throttle nut kit... so that didn't have to get swapped out.