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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 01-01-2010, 12:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation new 22re surging

So I got the engine running this morning and when I took it on a test drive after about 10 minutes of driving slowly the engine started to surge it was reving itself up and then letting off while the pedal was depressed the same but it was surging as if u were reving the engine please help me figure this out. and also if you guys have any links to some good time guides that would be grat i think its pretty well in time other then its ideling at 1000-1200 rpms when it should be at 750
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Very common problem. 5 minutes of searching would have yielded you with many, recent threads of the same problem....

Reduce the idle to below 1K rpm by turning the idle adjustment screw. When the rpms are above 1000 and the brake pedal is depressed, the ECU cuts fuel to the injectors, cause the idle to decrease, then it reads its at idle so it sends the correct amount and it idles back up to 1K+, so the ECU cuts fuel again, so on and so forth. Thats how you get surging with the brake pedal depressed.
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the brakes really dont cause the problem it will happen whil just sitting their if you give it a little gas and i backed the adjust ment screw all the way out to the idle didnt not change at all.
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check the TPS to see if its good and properly adjusted.
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thats a sure sign of a throttle postion sensor..

did you rev up you engine to max rpm.. sometimes doing that it will work the bugs out..

i hae to do the to my 2000 honda van every once in awhile i dont drive or start in like a few weeks.. (couple good revs afters its beend warmed up does the trick..)

there have been times where it has contiued to surge after driving it for 15 minutes down the road and setting at a stop light.. reving up and down...

after reading on a honda fourm i found out just to rev it up and do a few smokey burnouts with bleach and water in my drive-way it will go away..
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well the check engine light has now came on indicating its code number 51 and code 52 51 says its the ecu? and 52 is the knock sensor ive reved it up to about 3grand and it doesnt hlep and now the engines not so much surging anymore but like flooding itself and when adjusting the timing the closer i get to tdc the worse it runs??
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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make sure you knock sensor is connected ... its the sensor to the left of your oil filter...

be ready to spend some money on it.. i broke mine during my engine swap.. and i bought a new advanced auto parts.. they got me for 150.00 for a new one.

i saw them on the internet between 120 -180 bucks
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Old 01-02-2010, 12:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyota4x4907 View Post
Very common problem. 5 minutes of searching would have yielded you with many, recent threads of the same problem....

Reduce the idle to below 1K rpm by turning the idle adjustment screw. When the rpms are above 1000 and the brake pedal is depressed, the ECU cuts fuel to the injectors, cause the idle to decrease, then it reads its at idle so it sends the correct amount and it idles back up to 1K+, so the ECU cuts fuel again, so on and so forth. Thats how you get surging with the brake pedal depressed.
Pressing the brake pedal should never have any noticeable engine speed changes. IF it does you have a vac leak or booster is bad.
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Old 01-02-2010, 01:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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ECU code is not good.... something internal is prob broke.... Make sure everything that is supose to be hooked up and or connected is. Check and see if the knock sensor is plugged in. You can try an old "ECU slap test." It works sometimes. Basically go to the ECU and give it a good slap while the engine is running. If the engine speed or behavior changes in anyway when you slap it your ECU is bad. But sometimes it can be bad and not react to the "slap test." But if it does then yea.... start checking junk yards. Reset the computer? Take the EFI fuse out and neg battery cable off for about 30 secs and see if it helps.
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well i got the lights to go off but it is surging happens when giving it gas once it hits about 1700 rpm's it bogs down and starts surging i also think my tps is bad I tested it and the tps Idl to E2 had no resistance
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Old 01-02-2010, 04:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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well see if you can return the tps back to napa.. when you get one.. if it doesnt fic it take back.. tellem you u made a mistake and u saw it cheaper at autozone.. if the wont give you a return...
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Code 51 is a 'switch signal'. Either the clutch was engaged, the A/C was on or TPS was malfunctioning when the jumper was inserted. Clear the code then start the engine before inserting the jumper.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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try this out.. its worth a shot i guess have a 93 toyota pickup 22re engine that is acting like its starving for gas i changed the fuel filter and it still does it
Submitted: 594 days and 2 hours ago.
Category: Toyota Value: $9 Status: CLOSED
+Read More
Optional Information
Optional Information:
1993 Toyota pickup 22re

Already Tried:
changed fuel filter

Posted by RIP 594 days ago. Info Request
Hi, welcome to just Answer.

How many miles are on this Toyota?
Is the check enigne lamp illuminating while the enigne runs?
Does this happen on a cold enigne, warm, or both?



593 days and 18 hours ago. Reply
184000

only when its about to die

warm

Posted by RIP 593 days and 15 hours ago. Answer
Thanks, if the check engine lamp is coming on before it dies...there's a good chance the engine computer is recognizing a fault in one of the sensors or circuits. Have you tried to read codes yet? If not, this would be the best step to take first. You may have a faulty MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor, which are common failures and coincide with the symptoms. Let me know if you need instructions on reading codes using the check engine lamp flashes.




593 days and 14 hours ago. Reply
Yes if you can please give me instructions on reading codes that would be helpful.

Posted by RIP 593 days and 14 hours ago. Answer
No problem...below are the procedures...basically your going to use a jumper wire in the underhood diagnostic box to jumper terminals TE1 and E1. Than when you turn the ignition key to the ON position, the check engine lamp will begin to flash. Count the flashes...long flashes indicating the first digit in the code and short flashes indicating the second digit. Let me know what codes you come up with and I'll give you the definitions.

Without Scan Tool
Notes

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES OUTPUT
To obtain an output of diagnostic trouble codes, proceed as follows:


Initial conditions

Battery voltage 11 volts or more.
Throttle valve fully closed (throttle position sensor IDL points closed).
Transmission in neutral range.
Accessories switched OFF.
Engine at normal operating temperature.
Turn the ignition switch ON. Do not start the engine.

View Full Image






Using SST, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC 1. SST: 09843-18020 HINT: The DLC 1 is located near the No.2 relay block.

View Full Image






Read the diagnostic trouble code as indicated by the number of flashes of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp.

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Normal System Operation The lamp will blink 2 times per second.

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Malfunction Code Indication The lamp will blink a number of times equal to the malfunction code with pauses as follows:

Between the first digit and second digit. 1.5 seconds.
Between code and code, 2.5 seconds.
Between all malfunction codes, 4.5 seconds. The diagnostic trouble code series will be repeated as long as the DLC 1 terminals TE1 and E1 are connected.

View Full Image





HINT: In the event of a number of trouble codes. indication will begin from the small value and continue to the larger in order.


2 trip detection logic: The diagnostic trouble codes 21, 25, 26.27 and 71 use "2 trip detection logic". With this logic, when a logic malfunction is first detected, the malfunction is temporarily stored in the ECM memory. If the same case is detected again during the second drive test, this second detection causes the Malfunction Indicator Lamp to light up. The 2 trip repeats the same mode a 2nd time. (However, the IG SW must be turned OFF between the 1st time and 2nd time).

After the diagnostic check, remove SST. SST: 09843-18020
DIAGNOSIS INDICATION

When 2 or more codes are indicated, the lowest number (code) will appear first.
All detected diagnostic trouble codes, except for code No.51 and No.53, will be retained in memory by the ECM from the time of detection until cancelled out.
Once the malfunction is cleared, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp on the instrument panel will go off but the diagnostic trouble code (s) remain stored in ECM memory (except for code 51 and 53).




RIP39587.4951589468

Posted by RIP 593 days and 14 hours ago. Answer
Sorry the images arn't poping up...let me try this again.




Posted by RIP 593 days and 14 hours ago. Answer
Well it seems that my software isn't uploading properly, so try the procedure below it doesn't have any images, but the process is fairly simple.

1989-95 MODELS

Make sure the battery voltage is at least 11 volts.
Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed.
Place the gear shift lever in Neutral. Turn all accessories off.
The engine should be at normal operating temperature.
Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the Data Link Connector 1 (DLC1).
Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. Read the diagnostic code by the counting the number of flashes of the malfunction indicator lamp.
Codes will flash in numerical order. If no faults are stored, the lamp flashes continuously every 1/2 second. This is sometimes called the Normal or System Clear signal.
After the diagnosis check, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire.
Compare the codes found to the applicable diagnostic code chart. If necessary, refer to the individual component tests in this section. If the component tests are OK, test the wire harness and connectors for shorts, opens and poor connections.
These are the codes:


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593 days and 7 hours ago. Reply
Reply to RIP's Post: where is the air flow sensor on a 93 toyota pickup 22re i thought it was on the tube right before the the are cleaner bu its not and i cant find a picture online of where it would be

Posted by RIP 593 days and 5 hours ago. Answer
It is on the air cleaner housing and looks like the one below...


View Full Image





592 days and 6 hours ago. Reply
i did the procedure u said and got one long flash and four short flashes 14 code chart says its eather igt or igf or igniter or ecm where do i start and what do those mean

Posted by RIP 592 days ago. Answer
Good job! A code 14 indicates a fault in the ignition spark circuit. Perticularly is focusses on the Ignitor which is a unit used to signal the Ignition Coil to fire the cylinders at the correct time. The Ignitor takes inputs from the engine computer module (ECM) to make the determination when to fire the coil. The signals the Ignitor sends and receives are call the IGF and IGT. The code is bascially saying that one or both of these siglas are missing when tested. The problem can be the Ignitor itself, the wiring between the ECM and the Ignitor, or even the ECM. The wiring rarely fails, and the ECM is likley to on extremely high milage vehicles. To correctly test the Ignitor and ECM you need access to a lab scope...instead it may be worth it to replace the Ignitor and see if the problem remains. But before anything...clear the code 14 by disconnecting the battery negative cable for 10-15 seocnds. Than reattatch it and drive the truck around to see if you can get the check engine lamp to come on before it dies...and read the codes again so we known it is defnitly 14 and that the ECM is not erroneously setting codes.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

Igniters are mounted in one of two places on your Toyota truck. On the remotely mounted coils, the igniter is secured to the coil. On the integral coil vehicles (where the coil is in the distributor) the igniter is secured to the fenderwell.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Separate the wiring harness connections.

View Full Image
Fig. 1: The igniter can be found mounted on the remote ignition coil

Unbolt the igniter.

View Full Image
Fig. 2: Unplug the connector and remove the retaining screws

If mounted to the coil, loosen the nut holding the wire lead.

View Full Image
Fig. 3: If mounted to the coil, detach the wire

Tag and disconnect the wire lead.
Lift the igniter off its mount.

View Full Image
Fig. 4: Check that all the connections are separated, then lift the unit from the vehicleTo install:

Mount the igniter to the bracket.
Attach the wire lead to the coil if used.
Connect the harness.
Connect the negative battery cable.






591 days and 4 hours ago. Reply
ok this is weird so i disconected the bettery for about 1 min then reconnected it and went and drove the car and now it runs fine and i checked the code again and it just flashes repeatedly in no seqence just flashes what does that mean

Answer
That's good news....in some cases disconnecting the battery can cause a glitch in an electrical component to cure itself, or possibly just temporarily. In this case it is either the ECM or the Ignitor...more likely the ECM if it is affected by the battery disconnect. The flashing check engine lamp indicates there are no codes present...just drive the truck and wait for it to reoccur...if it doesn't any time soon, consider it fixed If it does reoccur, check for codes again, if it shows code 14, you should replace the Ignitor...if it shows another code, we'll reset it again and see what new code comes up...too many different codes can mean a bad ECM. Also, check your battery cables , if it was loose or heavily corroded, it can case erroneous codes and erratic ECM operation.


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Old 01-27-2010, 08:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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are you low on coolant?
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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low on coolant, exhaust smell like antifreeze? head gasket? timing chain issue?
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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all right welll based on my experience WITH THESE EXACT SYMPTOMS. aslong as your oil doesent look like a mocha-chino. its neither. the 22r's surge like hell when there is so water in them!!!!. 6/7 times i fixed this problem with a lower radiator hose ANd TOYOTA Red coolant. must be red.(the 1/7 haddn't had an oil change in 25,000) ive run green coolant and straight water....trucks tend to surge or overheat especially on a jack rabbit start (always give your old yota a little time to warm up and lubricate) as for the smell. once again ive never scene it or sniffed her but there are two common smells ive ever gotton off a yota one is an exhaust leak, the other one is a severly overheating exhaust leak. so the easiest question is where to you smell it. at the exhaust pipe, or in the drivers seat. if its in the seat i can almost guarantee your truck is overheating hence the remaining coolant is boiling off producing a fowl odor that is leaking out the manifold/saimese port(replace the afore mention hose coolant+2 siemese port gaskets). if you smell it behind the truck(tailpipe) then the odds are stacked that you ran this too hot, too long and warped your poor aluminum head....but this is also generally accompanied by mocha chino oil and a hell of a stank ass amell. just remember nothing dissappears. its all going some where!
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyota4x4907 View Post
Very common problem. 5 minutes of searching would have yielded you with many, recent threads of the same problem....

Reduce the idle to below 1K rpm by turning the idle adjustment screw. When the rpms are above 1000 and the brake pedal is depressed, the ECU cuts fuel to the injectors, cause the idle to decrease, then it reads its at idle so it sends the correct amount and it idles back up to 1K+, so the ECU cuts fuel again, so on and so forth. Thats how you get surging with the brake pedal depressed.

THis is my conclusion as well. Its worked for me- its always my idle speed is too high. Could be the TPS I suppose as well. On 4Crawler's website, there's a link to testing the TPS.
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:45 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Just did some major work on mine and it was surging (I worked on the TB as well). I reset the TPS as per specs and now works fine- if you haven't touched the idle adjustment screw, get an ohm meter and set the throttle closed reading to 500ohms, should be between 200 and 800 ohms- assuming your TPS is good. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...oUseAnOhmMeter
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:20 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I have an 85 celica gt with the 22re in it and mine idles perfectly but when I push the gas to the floor. It surges to 2 grand then back down and back to 2k. Its un driveable. I replaced my fuel pressure regulattor and the pulser and drove it about 40 miles and its happening again. All my vaccum lines are run to the right places. My timing is right. My cat isn't plugged. I reset the valve lash. I have new plugs. I can't figure it out.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:18 AM   #20 (permalink)
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ok well i fixed this quiet some time ago sorry to not keep you all posted but my tps was fine it was the alternator wire that was causing the surging and just so you all know toyota says the tps resistance test is over rated they typically set it to a certain angle i mean testing it is fine tho just saying the yota master tech here says he never uses the resistance test just thought id throw it out their.
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