Iceman4193

Hey everyone.
So I just finished my first rebuild of my 22RE and hooked it all up. It is on a 1994 Pickup.
As of now I have 2 issues.

First, the oil pressure light will not go out. I have castrol conventional 10W30 in it and I prefilled the oil filter. The oil pressure light sensor is new and when I ground the cable, the light goes out. So either I am not building pressure, or the sensor is not working.

Second, I am having a crank no start situation. Engine spins fine, I have spark, new fuel, and compression, yet no start. I have the timing set right at 5* BTDC on cylinder one, so I am not sure what else it could be.

I took a video explaining a little and giving a general look at the engine here,
I also have a thread with pretty much the whole build on it here, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...lcomed-294343/

If you all have any advice on where to start looking, let me know!

Thanks.

Flash319

Dump some fuel into the throttle body, put the pipe back on ans see if you get any action. Check fuel pump/pressure, Cor relay pulling in, injectors firing.......

Is your oil pressure switch in the right hole in the block?

91bluerunner

For the oil pressure, I would hook up a manual gauge to where the pressure sensor is. It may just be that without the engine running, it's not enough pressure to trigger the light to go out.

As far as the no start, this may be silly but is the fuel system primed? As in there is fuel getting to the engine? From there I would recheck timing, spark and all grounds.

fierohink

Do you have your afm hooked up? Without its signal the fuel pump doesn't energize.

Iceman4193

Thanks for the replies guys.
Ok so I tried some starting fluid into the TB, got nothing.
What is the Cor relay?
Does anyone know what kind of oil pressure tester I need for this?

I believe there is fuel getting to the engine because I had a banjo bolt after the filter not torqued and it shot fuel all over so it should be flowing. The pressure it is flowing at, I am not sure however.

The afm is plugged in but I will reseat it to try.

My suspicion is it is not enough fuel pressure. I have refurbished injectors that may require a little more pressure than the old fuel pump is putting out.

fierohink

You also have to push the door open on the afm with a screwdriver or something.

91bluerunner

May be that the injectors aren't firing at all. Check that they're getting power with a noid light set. They're decently cheap sets.
They look like this:

Iceman4193

While it is being started or just move the door a little with the key on the ON position?

fierohink

Prop the door open while cranking. The AFM needs to be fooled into thinking air is moving passed it.

Iceman4193

Ok guys,
So I finally got a chance to try some more on this thing. I tested the fuel pressure at the cold start injector and it is at 38 psi which is within range. I tried to crank it for a bit, but the battery ended up dying. I then decided to try and test the fuel injectors for resistance, even though they where sent out to RC injection and bench tested and refurbished. I noticed that they are actually outside of the accepted resistance range landing around 20 ohms compared to the accepted 13.7 - 14.2 ohms in the manual.
Could this be my problem? The injectors where all tested to work by them, so I have no idea how they are outside of the accepted ohm range.

Other than that I am still at a loss. It seems like everything is working correctly. I did try propping open the AFM door a little when cranking too but no luck.

91bluerunner

I gotta say again, check that the injectors are getting a signal with the noid light set. That will give you a good lead on which way to go with your diagnosis next.

Iceman4193

Those test signal to the injectors not the injectors themselves correct?

91bluerunner

Yes. It plugs into the harness and shows the signal to the injector via a flashing bulb. But that will at least tell you if the issue is in the harness or injectors themselves.

Iceman4193

I got it started! Turns out my timing was off TDC Exhaust... Opps.
So I am starting to break it in.

Everything seems good, however I do notice a slight clack when dropping RPMs quickly. I have a video of it here.
Is this normal during break in or does it need attention?

​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eejsFJQ1_SU&feature=youtu.be

Also, at the end I look at one of the VSV for the AC idle up. It sounds like it it leaking a little through the top. Is it normal to have some sound coming from it?