CitrusTheDragon

You should get the injectors cleaned a rebuild it will be some of the best money you spend on your rebuild, mine is only costing me 25-30 per-injector

Bob_T

Looks like you did a great job and have a great engine. I'm curious about Putney's recommendation that you don't need to re-torque the head bolts.

When I rebuilt my 22R I carefully torqued the head bolts when assembling the engine and then followed the conventional wisdom and re-torqued them after the engine had run for awhile. I was really surprised at how loose they seemed and they turned about a quarter turn more before reaching the same torque reading as when I originally torqued them.

I used a Toyota head gasket which seems to be slightly thicker than aftermarket gaskets I've seen and I'm pretty sure the composition gasket material compresses a little bit more with heat cycles and can use the re-torquing exercise, which is very easy to do.

Just curious why Putney's would not recommend re-torquing and it would sure be educational if you could call or email them and ask for their specific reasoning. I"m sure they know a lot more about the topic than I do. I'd ask them myself but you would likely get a better response, being a paying customer.

Seems to me that re-torquing it now might help the head gasket seal for a longer time once the motor gets thousands and thousands of miles on it.

Thanks,

Bob

snobdds

When I started to gather parts, I mainly went for the wear items. The block ships from Putney's all set to just bolt in. From memory here, but its still pretty recent:

Complete OEM gasket kit. (Didn't use most of it, but it had the weird gaskets)
Complete intake and exhaust studs and bolts.
New clutch Kit.
New Tranny input seal.
New Slave cylinder
New fuel filter
Sent injectors to Witchhunter to get cleaned.
New Fan Clutch
New Belts
All new hoses - Upper/Lower/Mid/Heater/under Intake/ Lower Vacuum Only
New dual stage thermostat
Put new brushes into the alternator
Put new starter contacts in the starter.

I did not touch any of the sensors at all. The TPS wasn't touched, the cold start injector tested fine as did the themo sensor. I have since replaced the O2 sensor...just because I was board on day. Also reused the knock sensor and the oil pressure light sensor.

To date the motor has been awesome. I have been taking the truck to the cabin every other weekend and no problems at all. I took it hunting this past weekend in 18 + inches of snow and it one of the few trucks with no chains on getting around. It runs strong and the best part...No leaks what so ever, right at 4,000 miles right now. I can pull hills a full gear lower than I use to.

Here is a picture of it in action in the Snowy Range Mountains during elk season...This was after 3 days of melt.

snobdds

I never really bought into needing to retorque the head and was kind of relieved when Jim also said do not retorque the head bolts. I think its one of those things that started on the Internet and now its taken as a common technique. It goes against how the motors left the factory 25 years ago. None of those engines ever needed to be retorqued after 500 miles?

I think manufactures and retailers tell people to do it just because they know how inaccurate some of the torque wrenches are out there that DYI's are using. If it saves them some hassle on phone calls from upset customers, it makes some business sense.

I have 4,000 miles of no coolant leaks, so I am either lucky or it doesn’t need to happen. I think if you have a good builder with good tools who uses good parts...don't worry about it. I have also not adjusted my valves once, I am suppose to do it at 30,000 miles... if there is any valve train noise The motor is quite and the only tick comes from the injectors.

Bob_T

I'll try contacting them and asking the question myself.

Bob

snobdds

I have ARP head studs, per ARP...there is no need to retorque after instal.

JPL

Awesome build with nice pics! I'll have to use some of your pics for future reference.

arcteryx

Can you give a more long term update? How many miles are on it now? What is your MPG? Any problems? Is it using/burning oil? TIA

snobdds

Well the long term update is it is still running strong. I have about 5,500 miles on the engine now and have had no problems. The MPG varies between winter and summer, just because of the winter vs. summer fuels. In the summer I get around 23MPG on mixed driving. In the winter I get around 20 MPG on mixed driving. The engine is still 100% leak free and it has great power for a little 4 cylinders. The engine is so quite with the upgraded oiling rocker arms, that sometimes I forget it's a 22RE. I do have some upcoming projects that I am going to do, fan clutch, new water and air hoses, new vacuum hoses etc. I find myself driving this more than my other newer cars just because it is so fun to drive.

I am at the point now where on my next oil change I want to go synthetic. In the wife's Mercedes ML500, I use a Mobil 1 0w-40. This is a true grade IV oil and is not a highly refined mineral oil like the other Mobil 1 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils are. This is some remarkable oil and it lasts forever. Her car goes 14,000 miles before an oil change is needed. Now, I won't ever let the oil go that long just because of the conditions I drive the truck in, but I want that kind of protection. I would just go Amsoil, but I get the 0w-40 by the case for the wife and it would just simplify my oil buying. I will update this thread when I decide what to do about the oil.

I am planning on replacing the engine on my fathers hunting truck with another engine from Jim at Putney's / 22RE Preformance here next fall. He is the only engine builder I know that builds a great engine. A little expensive, but super cheap in the long run...

Bob_T

Excellent. Thanks for the update. I rebuilt my 22R myself, a very low budget job and it's OK, but I can sure see the advantage to going the way you did. My engine performance and mileage is not what yours is.

Bob

snobdds

As long as it gets you from point A to point B, that is all that matters...

arcteryx

Thanks for the update. I go with the mantra do it right the first time, even if it cost more. Most of the time, this means it will be cheaper in the long run. I am debating on a OM602/ 3rz swap or getting a 22re. I would like some more power form the 22re. Did you notice a difference power? Maybe I missed it, but how many HP is the stage 2/2.5?

EFI85

Dude I know what you mean !! I just did my 22RE motor in my 85 i used all engine builder parts and had it assembled by this ole guy that was always known as THEE ENGINE GUY around these parts . He used to have a machine shop and hes now retired but if you get referred to him he'll build you a motor in his at home machine shop . This guy is freakin awesome he built me a motor for my 93 TBI chevy truck that was flat out badd ass and even made it pass smog and work with the stock computer .. anyway back to my 22RE lol. I am so happy with it it really does seem like it gets more powerful every time I drive it . Im only at 400 miles so Im getting ready to do an oil change too. I was thinking Ill get5k on it and go synthetic too ... did you happen to decide on an oil WT yet ??

snobdds

I noticed a bit more power, only because I think my old engine was more tired than I thought. The biggest difference is how smooth the motor is, it has a nice power / torque band. I can't remember what the horsepower was with this motor, but with me being at 6,200 feet above sea level...it hardley matters. It's not a power horse by any means.

I have adjusted my driving habits to this truck. For some reason, I don't feel the need to get anywhere quick when I am in it. I just putz around and enjoy the slow pace, it has a calming effect. That's why I keep it.

hmongyota

any update on how the engine is doing?? i was looking at one of their 3vze rebuild... please update.. i want feedback...

snobdds

The engine is doing fine. The valves are super quite, there are no oil leaks, it has great power and...

I am in the process of having a fiberglass bed built for it. So that means it is getting a new paint job as we speak. Will update with pictures later...

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

What did the final total come out to for the just the engine, if you don't mind me asking?

snobdds

Right around $3500. Thats for engine and all the parts I replaced since I was "in there"...

hmongyota

How much mileages are on the block now? Im debating if i should buy a 3vze from them... any suggestion?

SR25JD

I am new to YOTATECH,I just wannna say thats is a very fine job you did on the P/U.I am getting ready to change out the 22RE on my 1987 4 Runner soon.Hope it turns out like yours did.....Nice clean job..........God Bless