fnrunner

Looked & looked through the FSM & no mention of priming.

Searched here & else where -only mentioned using a pressurized oiling system to push oil into all the nooks & cranies.

Also heard of people packing their oil pump with vasoline... ?!?!?



Once the harmonic balancer, etc. is on, can I just remove this cap / screw , pull out the spring & plunger & pour some Lucus oil stabilizer or engine assembly lube down into the oil pump? Maybe add some oil too??

Will doing this along with adding some assembly lube on top of each rocker help with avoiding a dry start?
BTW- I'll presoak the filter, & obviously add the right amount of oil too...

kyle_22r

i've always just packed the impeller with white lithium grease prior to assembly -- helps make the engine build pressure quicker. always put good assembly lube on all bearing surfaces and cam lobes, too(i'm a fan of moly lube), as well as using it on the head bolt threads.

YotaJunky

I used vasoline and packed it into the oil pump. I also poured about a quart of clean oil over the rocker arms like you mentioned, before filling up the rest of the engine to spec. Then I cranked the engine for about 30 sec, but leaving the coil disconnected. After 30 sec, I reconnected the coil and then started it up.

Troy

PirateFins

like the other 2 when I did my rebuild. Lithium grease in the oil pump, assy lube on the rocker assy. and poured new clean oil over the whole rocker area letting it run down and into all of the areas below. Primed the motor without the coil, and then connected and started her up.

fnrunner

Cool - thanks guys!

I knew you die-hard 22r guys wouldn't let me down!

Hope to have my new Marlin clutch & flywheel in a day or 2 so I can get this thing back together & installed!!

Cheers!

kyle_22r

another benefit of cranking the engine with no plugs in it is that it won't put as much load on the rod bearings, which is important when all that's in there is assembly lube.

just crank it until the oil light goes out, then you're good to go.

melkar37

What do you suggest if you have tried all of that and you still don't have any pressure?

runethechamp

The oil pressure in my engine didn't go up until I started the engine with the coil plugged in after my rebuild. I cranked and cranked that engine without the coil, but the pressure didn't want to build up until I started it for real. It was only a couple of seconds though before that happened.

melkar37

thanks i will give that a try but if that doesn't work any other suggestions. this one has been a royal pain in the butt trying to figure out. so you don't think there might be something bad with head gasket or the oil pick up. i sure dont feel like pulling the motor again to have it be some thing simple

TOYOTA 1

do you have a manual oil pressure gauge ?

those factory dummy gauges don't work all that great.

runethechamp

What did you do to your engine in the first place? Rebuild or something else? And what have you tried so far?

melkar37

Well it started out as a head gasket replacement but then decided to replace all the gaskets and seals that come with the rebuild kit, but i didn't rebuild the engine. no removal of the cam or pistons. what i've tried so far is 2 oil pumps thinking one may be bad and just all of the various ways of priming. i have the factory light but also have an after market gauge as well and neither show any pressure?

runethechamp

Have you tried to start it?

The way I looked at it was that if I did everything right when I put the engine together, there was no reason why things wouldn't work properly. And I trusted that I did things right. So I started it and the pressure came right up.

melkar37

yes i have but nothing happened and i didn't want to run it for to long so i ran it for about a 2-3 minutes and then just shut her down and kicked the tire and said bad things.

TOYOTA 1

did you put the oil pump gear on the crank the right way?

just a thought.


im not sure if the starter will spin the motor fast enough to show any pressure.

at idle (around 800rpm) the manual gauge will only show around 8lbs of oil pressure.

so i think it would be hard to see any pressure just from the starter. again that's just a thought.

if you fired it up for that long and there is still no pressure i would say that the pickup is clogged, or the oil pump installed wrong, or a bad gauge. or no oil.... did you put oil in it????? lol sorry i have to ask



i have a question for the people that said they "primed" there oil pump/ turned the motor over with the starter until they got pressure....
what type of oil pressure gauge were you using, and how much pressure did it show during the prime?

melkar37

thought i did will look at that as well tonight when i get home.

Firebb15

just did a chain/cover/water/oil pump on my 95 22re. I hooked a manual oil pressure gauge up to it to make sure I have oil pressure before I start it because the previous owner ran the engine with milkshake oil/metal shavings when the old chain tore through the water pump housing (actually hit the impeller). Wanted to keep an eye on it when running to see if I even have any oil pressure still. I had a hard time priming the pump since I had to clean out the pan/pickup tube (aluminum shavings) and I installed the pump dry. I did mine with the plugs out, and the starter DID build oil pressure, alot actually. It took a while with LOTS of breaks so I didn't burn it up, but it will.

Firebb15

Also to add at a cold idle (when you first start your truck) you should have a lot more than 8lbs oil pressure.
Cold start high idle (winter time) i'm almost 90 lbs oil pressure.
750rpm hot idle never have seen anything less than 23lbs.
I believe FSM calls for minimum 4 lbs hot idle.
So even cranking at a couple hundred rpms with the plugs out I was getting a lot of oil pressure.

874runnersr5

Ditto. Im reading about 75psi at cold idle. At my 900rpm idle i got mine set at, its around 15psi.

TOYOTA 1

im well aware of the cold idle/oil creating more pressure .

do you remember how much pressure you actually built with the starter?

im just curious.