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Okay I did the solenoid test off of the ECM connector and SL & S4 read 0 ohms, I'm going to do the manual shift test if I can find the solenoid connection. This will take a while because I have to drive for a while and try to get it to act up after it get hot
Well the results of the manual shifting test was going good until I got home shut the runner off waited a few min got back in and put in Rev and the CLUNK,,, I said bad words just for the record.
So I noticed something there are 2 connectors that are in the same wire loom, 1 is grey and obviously it worked the solenoid sin the trans. The other one is Blue (see pic below) my question is that a separate harness for the transfer case?
Well I have done all the testing you guys said to do. Everything passed but the SL & SR ohms which one of you said wouldn't cause the issue. Something I noticed was when I was doing my driving test if it acted up I can turn the runner off and back on and sometimes it would clear up. Is that a coincidence? If so I hate to say it sounds like a mechanical issue based off the information you guys have given me... So my next question it is there a way to disable the transfer case without pulling the transmission? Honestly I live in the south so 4 wheel drive isn't a necessity. That way I can use the Runner until I can cough up money again to have the Transcase rebuilt..,
So is there a way to disable the Transcase without pulling the transmission as a temporary fix until I can have it rebuilt
I imagine you can disconnect the connector to the solenoids that are in the transfer case that control the 4WD shifting. You'll just have to remember not to use the manual shift lever
gonna PM you with some pdfs that have good color codes for the EWD for both transmission control and 4WD control- might help with the connector ID.
Remember: the transfer case will still work (you can manually shift from H2 to H4), but you can't shift to L4. But in your case, since you have manual hubs, there's no real difference between H2 and H4.
Okay I did the solenoid test off of the ECM connector and SL & S4 read 0 ohms, I'm going to do the manual shift test if I can find the solenoid connection. This will take a while because I have to drive for a while and try to get it to act up after it get hot
0 ohms... internal shorts in both solenoids!
1) SL is your lockup solenoid. I believe it gets a signal from the ECU when conditions are met to lockup (i.e. at highway speeds) so engine speeds = torque converter speeds = less slipping = better gas mileage. If this solenoid was already bad.. maybe the slipping caused the trans to overheat in the first place which resulted in your visiting the trans shop for an overhaul? Just a speculation. Please chime in, other folks!
2) S4 is your 4WD solenoid (as we've figured out earlier)
I don't know what an internal short will cause a solenoid to do (fail to engage, always engage, or intermittently engage when it's not supposed to at higher temperatures?--not fluid temperatures, but electricity going through wire heating temperatures). ?? Gonna ask around tomorrow. I wanna know!
according to the EWD, all of the solenoids are accessed through one connector, so I don't think the transfer has its own separate exterior connector. weird you had the CLUNK while only manually shifting, since there shouldn't have been ANY electrical connection to any shift solenoids.
*Did you doublecheck the alignment of the transfer position switch (and also your transfer shift cable... is it a cable or just a rod direct to the case- anyone know?) If either are out of adjustment, they might cause L4 to accidentally engage. (steps 6 and 7) http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...32prelimin.pdf
dunno about you, but I'd want to try to rule out everything before dropping a transfer case and potentially dumping money (and time) into an overhaul
one more thing @scope103 and the solenoid disconnect... I skimmed those pages in the repair manual you linked to- disconnect inside the case only? ... Is it a good idea to leave an open connector swimming in ATF (is it/can it become conductive)?
Last edited by LolaL; 07-12-2016 at 04:31 PM.
Reason: mulled over things more
... Is it a good idea to leave an open connector swimming in ATF (is it/can it become conductive)?
Open connectors are never a "good" idea, but those connectors are not water-(fluid) proof. So they are always swimming in (non-conductive) ATF by design. Finding the problem and fixing it is the way to go, but disconnecting S4 for a year or two SHOULD be okay.
(the transmission should then throw code 65 "Severed No.4 solenoid or short circuit – severed wire harness or short circuit." But if he doesn't have that code already, I'm skeptical of his zero ohms measurement on solenoid 4.)
Open connectors are never a "good" idea, but those connectors are not water-(fluid) proof. So they are always swimming in (non-conductive) ATF by design. Finding the problem and fixing it is the way to go, but disconnecting S4 for a year or two SHOULD be okay.
(the transmission should then throw code 65 "Severed No.4 solenoid or short circuit – severed wire harness or short circuit." But if he doesn't have that code already, I'm skeptical of his zero ohms measurement on solenoid 4.)
Yeah I think it's odd too for it to be O ohms but I checked again tonight still 0... On SL & S4
heyyyyyyyy
I just thought of something. that shorted S4 technically shouldn't be shifting your transfer into 4L, so the only other option is something manual/mechanical is occurring. Can you disconnect your 4WD short shifter linkage (should be connected to the transfer position switch through some lever arm- repair manual shows it on the driver side of the trans.
keep the solenoids disconnected as well, then try driving again. I wonder if the manual valve spring is weak and that valve is slamming into its end position somehow (which is why you going into 4H first... at least you won't have to drop the pan to disconnect that part. If 4L still engages, it's got to have something to do with that manual valve (fluid bypassing or valve not holding position).
too bad trans and transfer cases aren't clear so you can see what's actually happening underneath.
*and one more thing- when you disconnected the solenoid harness to do the manual test, you didn't get a code for ALL the solenoids being open? Or you did and you cleared them?
Last edited by LolaL; 07-13-2016 at 01:25 AM.
Reason: more words
did that 4L CLUNK always happen when you went in reverse after a key off, or did it not matter if you were moving in a direction opposite to what you were going in when you shut the truck off?
07-07-2016, 04:13 PM
