negative camber stumped?
#1
negative camber stumped?
ok....i have not owned this truck very long..the tires are leaning in at the top. so no problem i will just adjust the camber, not so easy. the front camber bolts i was able to loosen and spin, not so lucky with the rear...so took it to a shop and had new rear bushing and bolts put in. Passenger side tire is in good shape now.....however the drivers side will not adjust far enough to correctly set the camber...torsion bars have been cranked at some point in the past i guess to clear the 31" swampers that are on the truck. so i uncranked the torsion bars but still no luck with the setting the camber on drivers side. don't know what to do now?
#2
Do you mean that you cannot turn the cam bolts enough (ie: nut is loose already?) try hitting it with penetrating oil and use a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, use an impact wrench. if it breaks, it needed replacing anyways (I keep telling myself that).
#4
Sorry, I wasn't reading closely.
So when both bolts are maxed out, you still have neg camber? Sounds, like you've bent your frame or LCA. Any big accidents? How did the neg camber come about?
So when both bolts are maxed out, you still have neg camber? Sounds, like you've bent your frame or LCA. Any big accidents? How did the neg camber come about?
#5
well it was this way when i bought the truck.....upon further investigation i found that the torsion bar on the passenger side is not cranked up it is setting in the factory position while the drivers side is cranked up almost all the way... the rear springs on the drivers side are sagging compared to the passenger side...i have measured both sides and they measure the same in the front so i don't believe anything is bent. i just wonder if the torsion bar being cranked up and the rear leafs sagging is enough to throw the camber out that far...the top of the tire still needs to move positve about an 1"-1.5"
#6
Same exact thing on my 2008 Platinum. Bought with 11,000 miles and complained at the dealer about the negative camber on just the driver side rear wheel. Put it up, adjusted it and said it fit factory specs. Also made them replace the rear wheels with ones from another Platinum as the driver rear looked worn on the inside due to this weird camber.
Anyway, it looked a little better when I drove off and now that it's home after a week - looks just as bad. Top is 1-1.5 " in from the bottom looking at it from the rear on the drivers side. Slightly out - but not noticeable - on the passenger. This has GOT to wear those tires in a screwed up way.
Anyway, it looked a little better when I drove off and now that it's home after a week - looks just as bad. Top is 1-1.5 " in from the bottom looking at it from the rear on the drivers side. Slightly out - but not noticeable - on the passenger. This has GOT to wear those tires in a screwed up way.
#7
year & model?
there is a possibility the lower control arm "towers" on the rear of the arm spread out a bit, I've read this is common if the truck's been jumped. That's why alot of people run an IFS truss - this one from Sonoran Steel is probably overkill, Total Chaos also sells one, I made my own
on my '88 the towers are 17" apart exactly when measured inside edge to inside edge, this measurement should be good for any pre '89 IFS, though I read there are some variances between the different years
there is a possibility the lower control arm "towers" on the rear of the arm spread out a bit, I've read this is common if the truck's been jumped. That's why alot of people run an IFS truss - this one from Sonoran Steel is probably overkill, Total Chaos also sells one, I made my own
on my '88 the towers are 17" apart exactly when measured inside edge to inside edge, this measurement should be good for any pre '89 IFS, though I read there are some variances between the different years
Last edited by corax; 01-14-2009 at 04:50 PM.
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#8
oh sorry guys forgot to tell you that info......the truck is a 88 std cab short bed, 4x4, 3.0 5spd....i will go measure and see if mine measures 17". thanks for the info i'll keep ya posted.
#9
well corax i believe you may have hit the nail on the head....i went and measured and sure enough mine measured 19-3/4". so now the question is how do i go about getting back where it belongs?
#10
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best way is for a frame shop to pull it in to place and then install a truss before it rolls off the rack. On the side you can't get the camber in, the frame is most likely twisted more than the other so you can't just put a come-along or something in there and pull the two together 'cause you might just tweak the better side out the other way.
#11
frame shop -or- home repair
I would be tempted to try a load binder to pull the sides back together (a little bit at a time, undo the tension, measure, re-bind a bit, measure, etc) and when you can release the tension and it stays at 17" install a truss to hold it there -- the only problem I can see with that fix is if both sides don't pull evenly. Since one side is in spec for camber, it sounds like it may just be one side that shifted, so attach the load binder from the frame rail to the lower control arm tower? *edit* I think Abe took care of that one
If in doubt, get a quote from a frame / body shop - might want to get a quote anyway as it might not be that bad to get it done professionally
I would be tempted to try a load binder to pull the sides back together (a little bit at a time, undo the tension, measure, re-bind a bit, measure, etc) and when you can release the tension and it stays at 17" install a truss to hold it there -- the only problem I can see with that fix is if both sides don't pull evenly. Since one side is in spec for camber, it sounds like it may just be one side that shifted, so attach the load binder from the frame rail to the lower control arm tower? *edit* I think Abe took care of that one
If in doubt, get a quote from a frame / body shop - might want to get a quote anyway as it might not be that bad to get it done professionally
Last edited by corax; 01-14-2009 at 05:45 PM.
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