ColoradoRyan

I'm getting close to painting, but I have kind of a mess with sanding. What should I do about this? The clear coat was flaking off in a lot of places, some places the top coat was worn. So I started stripping with 80 on a drill and this is what I have because I couldn't decide what layer to go to. Starting at bare metal there is a gray, then red, then gray, then silver metallic, then clear coat, (or at least there was). I originally wanted to go down to the red but I kept burning through it to metal.

I want to spray with urethane bc/cc solid white. How uniform does this have to be before I shoot primer? Right now I've got a bunch of different levels from bondo to metal to all stages of oem paint. I'd rather not strip to bare metal if I can avoid it. The few areas i've burned through I've sprayed with rattle can etch primer.

Thanks for any help...

YodaMonster

depending how straight you want your rig... sounds like sanding with a drill isnt a good idea. can you feel the different levels of paint when you run your hand accross? if so i would take it down to metal, if you dont want it looking like the ocean after its painted

RobD

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...ock/index.html

peow130

if you have a decent size air compressor, go pickup a Dual-action sander.
it's orbital or circular..

ColoradoRyan

Yeah the drill isn't the best idea, corded was horrible but the dewalt cordless are doing ok because they are variable speed so I can go slow, but probably should not have been using 80 grit unless I wanted to go down to bare metal. I can't feel the difference in the paint levels so I'm just going to spray bomb the burn throughs with rattle can etch primer, then block with 220, prime and see how bad it is.

Here's a pic of where I'm at:



Yeah I guess you and me like to learn the hard way lol. Sure pics are always awesome.

My air compressor is a bit small for that and I'm all out of cash. I agree those sanders are the proper way to do it though.

Thanks for the link, very useful.