Need help check engine
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Westfield MA
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Need help check engine
I just ran a scan on my 95 4runner after having the check engine light suddenly come on this morning while driving. It seems to be running good no problems, but I was wondering if there is any reason I may be missing on why these codes are showing up and what they mean.
The Codes
DTC 21-HO2S front circuit
DTC 41-VSS circuit
DTC 43-Starter Signal Circuit
DTC 14-Ignition Reference No Signal/ Turbocharger Pressure(and I dont have a turbo)
Any explanations on what to do and what they mean would be awesome also how do I delete them the tool I used say I need to consult the owners manual to erase the codes.
Thanks Kevin
The Codes
DTC 21-HO2S front circuit
DTC 41-VSS circuit
DTC 43-Starter Signal Circuit
DTC 14-Ignition Reference No Signal/ Turbocharger Pressure(and I dont have a turbo)
Any explanations on what to do and what they mean would be awesome also how do I delete them the tool I used say I need to consult the owners manual to erase the codes.
Thanks Kevin
#2
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I don`t know about the codes, but to clear them just disconect the battery for about five minutes and they will be gone, but if they come back then you have a problem some were.
#3
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do any of these code represent a serious risk to the vehicle? also can I drive it any common problems that would throw these codes
#4
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I really don`t know what all of those codes mean for your year 4Runner, just clear the codes and see if they come back, if one or more of them came back then you probably have a sensor or something going bad.
#6
14 - IGF signal from igniter is not input to the ECM for 6 consecutive ignitions
------ Open or short in NE circuit (NE is the white wire in the 4 wires connected to the distrubor (Check the resistance between the G (Green and opposite end of the connector) and the NE lead on the distributor with the cable unplugged. Resistance should be between 150 - 220 ohms) If not present, may be a back pickup in the distributor, the only way to cure is to replace the distributor.
------ Igniter issue (but since your vehicle is running, this should not be the problem
------ ECM (again, since your vehicle is running, this should not be the case, but never completely trust computers.
21 - (1) Open or short in the heater circuit of the heated oxygen sensor for .5 seconds or more.
(2) At normal driving speed (below 60mphand engine speed is above 1,500rpm), amplitude of heated oxygen sensor signal (OX) is reduced to between .35 and .70V continuously for 60 seconds or more
------ Open or short in heater circuit of heated oxygen sensor
------ Hetated oxygen sensor heater
------ ECM
41 - Open or short detected in throttle position sensor signal (VTA) for .5 seonds or more.
IDL contact is ON and VTA ouptut exceeds 1.45 Volts
----- Open or short in throttle position sensor or sensor circuit
----- Throttle position sensor
----- ECM
43 - Starter signal (STA) is not input to ECM even once until engie reaches 800 rpm or more when cranking.
----- Open or short in starter signal circuit
----- Open or short in IG SW or main relay circuit
----- ECM
I would start by checking the G to G1, G to G2 and G to NE resistance readings on the distributor, but even before that I would disconnect the battery and let the codes clear and see if they return. Additionally, I would check the connector to the distributor to make sure it is plugged in completely.
------ Open or short in NE circuit (NE is the white wire in the 4 wires connected to the distrubor (Check the resistance between the G (Green and opposite end of the connector) and the NE lead on the distributor with the cable unplugged. Resistance should be between 150 - 220 ohms) If not present, may be a back pickup in the distributor, the only way to cure is to replace the distributor.
------ Igniter issue (but since your vehicle is running, this should not be the problem
------ ECM (again, since your vehicle is running, this should not be the case, but never completely trust computers.
21 - (1) Open or short in the heater circuit of the heated oxygen sensor for .5 seconds or more.
(2) At normal driving speed (below 60mphand engine speed is above 1,500rpm), amplitude of heated oxygen sensor signal (OX) is reduced to between .35 and .70V continuously for 60 seconds or more
------ Open or short in heater circuit of heated oxygen sensor
------ Hetated oxygen sensor heater
------ ECM
41 - Open or short detected in throttle position sensor signal (VTA) for .5 seonds or more.
IDL contact is ON and VTA ouptut exceeds 1.45 Volts
----- Open or short in throttle position sensor or sensor circuit
----- Throttle position sensor
----- ECM
43 - Starter signal (STA) is not input to ECM even once until engie reaches 800 rpm or more when cranking.
----- Open or short in starter signal circuit
----- Open or short in IG SW or main relay circuit
----- ECM
I would start by checking the G to G1, G to G2 and G to NE resistance readings on the distributor, but even before that I would disconnect the battery and let the codes clear and see if they return. Additionally, I would check the connector to the distributor to make sure it is plugged in completely.
#7
your truck does not have the 3.4 swap does it? i'm sure not but yea just puttin that out there. Sounds to me your having the same prob that my dads truck had. That code talking about the ignition and starter circuts is basically saying your computers having trouble recoinizing things when the vehicles just started. I'm going to guess that it does not run great on startup or cold mornings. Does it have a cold air trash take? If so i recommend you toss it. Don't judge me on this but all the 3.0s i have seen don't like cold air intakes. The ignition prob is common on 3.0s and usually you can't tell. You are prob going to have to dig deeper into the ignition system to see if theres an bad grounds or broke wires. But it seems like the light is only from the o2 sensor. I'd say fix and or make sure there are no vac leaks or exhaust leaks and change o2 sensor. There just may be an exhaust leak or vac leak you can fix to stop the sensor from messin up. Try and fix leaks reset then drive. if light comes back on its prob ur sensor itself.
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