Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

need help with the 3vze

Old 09-15-2016, 01:16 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wannadrivemyyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
need help with the 3vze

Hey yotatech. I bought a 91 4runner with a blown engine. I did not know it was blown when I bought it. I am very inexperienced when it comes to car mechanics.. I decided to make this a bit of a project because I love the car. I bought another 3vze from a scrapyard which I know works. I was hoping someone could tell me the minimal stuff that i need to hook up to get the car to run and drive. Any other tips on the engine swap would be awesome. I am looking forward to joining the community. Thanks any help is appreciated!
Old 09-15-2016, 01:25 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
millball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 4,099
Received 598 Likes on 438 Posts
Technically, it's not an engine swap, it's an engine replacement, because the new engine is same as the old.

Best that you learn right away that cutting corners on these electronicly managed drivetrains does'nt get it.

There ain't no 'minimal' stuff to hook up. Its ALL gotta work together if it's gonna work right.

Find a copy of the Factory Service manual for your model and year and do what it says.

If you do, you'll have a reliable machine.
Old 09-15-2016, 02:47 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wannadrivemyyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you for the response. That's what I thought, I was hoping there would be an easier way. I found a link from yotatech for a 2nd gen FSM (http://www.ether3al.com/93fsm-mobile/index.html) If anyone else needs it. Thanks again!
Old 09-15-2016, 05:01 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
cbr600rx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Man this hole can get deep fast.

Your going to need at least the following.
water pump
thermostat
Toyota timing belt
idler pulleys
knock sensor wire
intake manifold gasket
front main seal
rear main seal
oil pick up gasket
small oil pump o ring
2 tubes of Toyota form in place gasket
plugs
all other related gaskets
Timing belt tensioner depends on year
and so on.

Make sure you use the correct timing belt parts. In the early 90s they changed from a spring tensioner to hydraulic.

Old 09-15-2016, 05:09 PM
  #5  
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
 
Terrys87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
If you cant get a good copy of the FSM, I like to use a Haynes Manual. I have a Factory Service Manual, Haynes Manual, and a Chilton. Chilton I never use and should just throw away, The FSM I have used occasionally and I am on my 2nd Haynes as I have worn the first one out. Dont take any short cuts as it will bite you in the butt later on. While the motor is out, get all of the carbon out, clean the sensors, and get new gaskets to prevent leaks. Welcome to Yotatech.
Old 09-15-2016, 07:52 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wannadrivemyyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the help guys. The progress is slow, especially when you don't know what's happening. Is there any order of doing it all, that might make it easier for me?
Old 09-15-2016, 07:58 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
millball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 4,099
Received 598 Likes on 438 Posts
To get started, any of the manuals should give a step by step sequence for engine removal.

Old 09-15-2016, 08:58 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
SCLead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Montana
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just picked up a 92 pickup with a 3vze and did a lot of the same work you'll likely want to do, though I left the engine in place.

First, auto or manual? 4wd or 2wd?

Most of the work is pretty simple as long as you're attentive to detail. Find a copy of the FSM, it has outstandingly clear procedures on almost everything. Almost. Take time with each piece you remove to pause and examine it and say "how does this work? how does it interact with the other parts around it? what might happen if it was installed incorrectly, or missing altogether?"

Be absolutely obsessive about marking/labeling/keeping track of nuts and bolts. I always manage to end up either with an extra, or short one at the end of a project. Fortunately, I'm OCD about marking and tracking them in critical applications, so I don't miss the key components.

cbr600rx7 gave a good list of things to knock out. I'd also highly suggest doing the valves as you'll have everything out of the way already. Everyone makes them out to be a royal pain, they're not. Not at all. The biggest pain is removing the intake plenum, but you probably want to do that to replace knock sensor anyway, or at very least the harness. I'd service the injectors while I'm down there as well. I just replaced mine with rebuilt ones rather than sending mine out to get rebuilt and waiting for them to come back.

I found it easiest to tear down to the bottom and start working my way back up. Replace the front main seal, then up to the water pump and thermostat, heading up to the valves. Replace cam seals and caps since you'll likely already have the cams out. Replace the valve cover gaskets. PCV valve. Check for cracked vacuum hoses since you'll be peeling most of them off one end or another. Make sure you order crush washers for your fuel rails and fuel dampener, I forgot those and was delayed.

The FSM outlines how to test almost every system under the hood. I'd suggest getting a decent multimeter and checking what you can while you're deep in it. Most things can be tested in place very easily.

The biggest things to pay attention to are your timing marks and engine position if you remove anything critical. Fortunately, the 3vze is a non-interference engine, so even if you completely wank your timing, the worst thing to happen is it simply won't start. A lot of engines will crash the pistons into the valves and wreak havoc.

Check my build thread in my signature to get an idea of what I did to mine. That's pretty much what I considered a good baseline to "get to know" the engine in my new rig. Also plan for a few unknowns and unexpected issues. I stripped a cam cap bolt WAY below the torque spec and had to helicoil it. My fan clutch was shot and I had to order a replacement. My fuel filter was seized on and I destroyed the main fuel line. So understand that you've got an older vehicle and you're GOING to have frustrating issues. Drink a beer and carry on. If you're lucky, being in Tucson, you'll avoid a lot of the common rust/corrosion issues if your truck is a desert native.
Old 09-20-2016, 02:40 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wannadrivemyyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Where do I find this 3 prong piece?

3 prong vaccum piece. It was broken somehow and I dont know how to find it. I'll post some pictures of the build if you guys are interested.

Old 09-21-2016, 05:26 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
Powerdisciple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t...rol+valve,7280

You may be able to cross reference the part number to find it cheaper somewhere else like ebay.

Old 09-21-2016, 05:30 PM
  #11  
Registered User
 
Powerdisciple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry wannadrivemyyota I may have misidentified it as the idle control valve for the PS pump. This part was located on the upper intake plenum...

Old 09-21-2016, 06:01 PM
  #12  
Registered User
 
Powerdisciple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Gas filter.

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...Filter=(d=USA)
Old 09-21-2016, 08:56 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
Lysdexic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For some reason there are 4 part numbers for that part:
Part Number: 9091711027 ; 9091711004; 9091711003; 9091711024
Your part is 23265 in the drawing below.

You can enter your vehicle information into this web site and see which is for you.

http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/TO...091711027.html
Attached Thumbnails need help with the 3vze-vacuumpiping.jpg  

Last edited by Lysdexic; 09-21-2016 at 09:30 PM.
Old 09-22-2016, 12:44 AM
  #14  
Registered User
 
yota.forever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The best advice I can give that hasn't already been said is to take your phone to the junkyard w/ a cup of coffee and take as many pics as you can of the vacuum lines on the pass side. Also locate and identify the hose routes on the back of the intake. This is all but impossible to get to once the engine is in place. This is going to sound like more work, but you might want to spend a couple bucks and get some gaskets for the intake plenum so you can remove it, then install the engine, hook up all the hoses (INSPECT THEM AS WELL). and then mount everything back. And get a six pack of your favorite beer, This definitely helps more than you know.
And although it's already been said, Get Yourself the Factory Service Manual. There is a free download of it somewhere, just look around. I think someone here has posted a copy.
It really isn't that bad. Just be patient, and enjoy it.
and what ever you do, do not break that power steering pump vac advance valve. It cost something like $130 and is only available from Toyota.
Oh yeah. Put an old sheet or a drop cloth underneath the engine as you start to pull things off. small parts can cost alot. That PS valve mentioned earlier has a little brass fitting inside that is only available with the valve... $130, ouch!
Old 09-22-2016, 12:49 AM
  #15  
Registered User
 
yota.forever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by wannadrivemyyota
3 prong vaccum piece. It was broken somehow and I dont know how to find it. I'll post some pictures of the build if you guys are interested.
It goes on the back of the PS pump. Make sure the brass fitting is still inside. If not it will leak.

Yes, post pics of the build!!
Old 09-22-2016, 04:57 AM
  #16  
Registered User
 
cbr600rx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
PS idle up valve.
Old 09-23-2016, 10:34 AM
  #17  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wannadrivemyyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So close! Idling at 2000

Need help identifying two hoses. What are these?
Old 09-23-2016, 10:59 AM
  #18  
Registered User
 
Lysdexic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Those two, (presuming you mean the pipes without hoses), go to your power steering idle up.

Here's an old picture of mine with one of the hoses removed.
Attached Thumbnails need help with the 3vze-powersteeringvacuum02.jpg  

Last edited by Lysdexic; 09-23-2016 at 11:24 AM.
Old 09-23-2016, 01:24 PM
  #19  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wannadrivemyyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Are those broken off? Is that where it connects?On the bottom of power steering pump

Originally Posted by Lysdexic
Those two, (presuming you mean the pipes without hoses), go to your power steering idle up.

Here's an old picture of mine with one of the hoses removed.
Old 09-23-2016, 02:27 PM
  #20  
Registered User
 
yota.forever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Lysdexic
Those two, (presuming you mean the pipes without hoses), go to your power steering idle up.

Here's an old picture of mine with one of the hoses removed.
Yup, I agree w/ Dyslexic

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: need help with the 3vze



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:59 PM.