PETDOC

My '88 fuel injected 4Runner with 22RE has 360,000 miles on odometer. Everything has been fine. Drove home last night and parked it. This morning it starts every time I turn the key and then immediately dies. It reminds me of the time when my airflow meter went south. I replaced it about 3 years ago with re-manufactured AFM.
I jumped the circuits (T and E1) to see if there was a fault code and the check engine light merely blinks at a constant rate. Does this mean there is no fault code present?
I've checked the air filter and all the connections to the throttle body for an air leak--nothing there.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

PETDOC

Another piece of information. With the ignition on I reached up inside the airbox and pushed the flap at the entry to the AFM. This resulted in an electric hum which I assume means the fuel pump is ok.

scope103

Constant rate blinking means "no code."

"Starts and then immediately dies" is the classic symptom of a VAF-COR circuit problem. Pushing the vane with your finger is a good start, but there is a more comprehensive way. With Key-on, jumper FP to B+ (you should hear the same hum; this starts the fuel pump regardless of the VAF and COR).

Will it start and run now? If it does, I'm going to guess that the vane is sticking. (Since pushing it with your finger starts the fuel pump, it probably isn't the COR.)

Last, don't drive around with the jumper in. If you have an accident that breaks a fuel line, the pump will keep spraying fuel all over your hot engine parts. Is that the way you want to end it?

PETDOC

Scope, thanks for the advice. I had already tried the Fp to B+ with no effect. After trying that I began following all the wires over the top of the engine. I found a group of 3 thin wires that originate over on the left side near the coil and cross over to midway down the valve cover and then dive down between the valve cover and block. Two of those wires had broken and once spliced back together the engine runs fine. It is dark and the repair was done with a flashlight. In the morning I'll try an identify the wires and where they originate from and go to. I hope they are easy to replace as all 3 wires appear a little brittle. I'm guessing I'll have to pull the valve cover and possibly more to get to the attachment.

PETDOC

For anyone who has experienced my issue--starts normally, runs for a couple of seconds and then dies-- there are several causes but mine was due to broken wires. The wires that broke are in a bundle of three, which includes a very thin black/red, black/yellow and black/white wire, wrapped in a black heat-resistant plastic sleeve. The wires originate from the igniter, which is a small rectangular box on top of the coil. They start in a light green plastic cylindrical connector just in front of the coil on the far left (driver's) side of the engine compartment, cross over the top of the valve cover and dive down between the passenger side of the valve cover and the intake manifold. I cannot see where they attach, but based on the schematic in the shop manual it appears they attach to the EFI computer. Two of the 3 wires were broken in my set at the point after they had crossed over the valve cover and began the descent to the EFI computer. If anyone can tell me how best to get to the point of attachment I would appreciate it. I spliced the wires back together and my 4Runner runs fine, but the wires are brittle and need to be replaced. The source (ie, igniter) is easy access, but I'm unsure of the terminal attachment point.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I tried to chase my wires out like you just described on your post and can not really see where it actually goes to. I would suggest removing your Plenum ( The part that says EFI) and I think that would give you some great access to that area that you are suspecting.

It isnt to hard to remove and most likely you are going to have a alot of carbon build up as well and would be a good time to clean the Plenum. I take mine to the car wash to clean it. But back on subject, there are 3 bolts and one nut that holds the Throttle Positon Sensor (TPS) Assembly onto the Plenum. I would just remove it and dont remove the TPS from its mounting positon.

With the Plenum off, I think that would give you plenty of room to work on it.

PETDOC

I spoke with the shop manager at the local Toyota dealer. He told me the 3 wires go into the main wiring harness right below where I had spliced them back together. He said if I remove the plenum I would expose the harness and may have to open it slightly to get enough wire exposed to solder on new wires.
Now all I need is some heat resistant tape/ covering for the wires as they course back over the top of the engine and exhausted manifold.