andlours

iTrader: (1)

So I've decided that it wouldn't be a bad time to rebuild my 22RE. It's been burning some oil and leaking some around the valve cover. It has around 180k on it and I need to replace my timing chain as well. I figure it wouldn't be a bad time to just pull the whole engine and freshen it up a bit. I'll have a month off of school for Christmas break and figure it'd be a great time to do the rebuild. Here is where my question comes in though, what rebuild kit should I buy? Would one of LCE's be good or one of engnbldr's be better? I just want to order everything in advance and be ready to go by Christmas time. I'll have about a $1000 budget and was hoping that you guys could give me some good recommendations. I'm open to any ideas.

Thanks in advance,
Andy

xxxtreme22r

Engnbldr.com . LCE's stuff is good but way over priced. Might want an OEM headgasket from the dealership and I just had one of Engnbldr's timing chain kits fail on me after a 20k on a full rebuild.

I didn't skimp and bought a new stock style OEM replacement head from him too.

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Xtreme, what happened? I'm sure I won't be the only one here curious about that... what exactly broke?

x2 on the OEM headgasket from one of the Yota dealerships. I think there is a Toyota website run by a dealership that has pretty good prices. Search on here as there are plenty of threads on what people recommend and used for this job. If I was doing it, I would also do OEM oil pump and water pump. If I start coming up with sites, I'll let you know.

I've always heard good things about Engnbldr's stuff and advice. Just curious about this failure though.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, thanks so much for the advice. So right now I'm leaning toward the engnbldr stuff. It sounds pretty good. Why would you recommend and OEM oil pump and head gasket though?

Stu Pidasso

The OEM head gasket is pretty much a must. I personally used Victor Reinz on my 22re that I just built. Victor Reinz is the same brand of gaskets that LC uses on their engines. I have had no problems so far with anything leaking or needing to be retorqued. I used Clevite engine parts and I used stuff from Engnbldr. The guys at the machine shop were impressed with the quality of components that I got from Engnbldr. The reason people sway towards OEM stuff is because the OEM stuff is designed to be used on an engine that is going to last as long as the 22re does. OEM parts often times are not only as durable as the 22re itself is but they also have design updates that aftermarket parts will not have. Aftermarket companies basicly go off the original design and specification of things. Manufacturers of aftermarket parts are not always up to date on improvements and modifications.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Engbldr is great from my experience with them. OEM has lasted so long on these trucks that the parts pretty much speak for themselves.

snobdds

I've never had an engnbldr part last longer than 25,000 miles. If you know this going in, then you know what to expect.

I have since used OEM and stuff last so much longer...

abecedarian

Andlours,
Depending on what really needs work, $1000 may not be enough.
Keep in mind you won't know what condition the cylinders are in until you get in there. You may be lucky and only need rings but if you need bore / hone work done, that could require new pistons and such. Also, make sure you give the bearings and crankshaft a good check too... since you'll be in there.
I would hate to see you go through the work only to have the engine let go.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Thanks so much for the advice so far guys. I can spend more than $1000 if necessary, but i wouldn't like to. While I'm in there, what else should i look to replace? (i.e. engine mounts, clutch, etc.)

Duffdog

You should buy a new head from the dealer-- then you will not have any problems with it. I find that many of the aftermarket heads are mostly cheap chinese castings, which are all terrible.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Alright guys, here's the list so far:

Engnbldr full rebuild kit with 270/430H/O Cam: $299.80
http://engnbldr.com/toyota-hotlicks.html

OEM Head Gasket: not sure of price...

Possibly Oem Head: also not sure of price...

Is there anything I'm missing, and do any of you guys know the pricing on the OEM parts?

Thanks,
Andy

fierohink

I'm not sure why everyone is suggesting OEM heads. I bought an OE replica from engndlr around 80k miles ago, and have had no issues. That has been 80k miles spinning one of his torkr cams.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the bottom end after a ring came apart @ 200k miles. My engnbldr cam has around 120k miles on it and has little to no signs of wear. The metal guided timing chain got replaced during this rebuild since it had the same miles as the cam.... I know, I know, I'm 20k miles overdue. Ted's stuff has such great reviews this actually surprises me that so many people are steering you away from them now.

As far as other things to do while you're in it, replace the clutch unless you know how old it is and the miles are really low, you will have done all the work for it anyways. Get your injectors cleaned, it's $100 extra but if you're freshen up the motor why do all that work and put clogged injectors back in? Motor mounts will be easy to do since the block is coming out, if they are still good leave'em. Add an oil pump and water pump, they're checp and again you will have everything stripped down.

There are several people that have done really nice write-ups while rehabbing their rigs: 92 Toy, Chef4x4, and a bunch of others. Search for build ups and you'll get a lot of hints as to how much you can do if you have the time and money.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice fierohink. I still may go with just the OEM headgasket though, just to be safe. Should i look at replacing my whole head or just get it resurfaced? ...like i said, I'm really new to all of this stuff

fierohink

Personally I would start by pulling the head and taking it to a good machine shop. They will be able to tank it and check for cracks, warping, or any other problems to determine if it is salvagable. Why spend $350 on a new casting if you don't have to.

From there it's up to you. When you pull the head you will be able to feel the cylinders for scoring. Since you are having oil consumption it is either through the valve train or the rings. If it was through the rings you will want to pull the block and have it machined true.

If you are buying a mater rebuild kit, you will have to place the order after a machine shop has checked the block. They will then tell you the size parts to buy, pistons and rings so much oversized and crank bearings so much undersized. Personally I would recommend having the machine shop set up your rotating assembly. This is delicate and exact work that they do everyday and you would be doing once in a lifetime, just some food for thought.

As I said the rest s up to you and your wallet. Oversized valves, hot cam, headers, injector service, stroker kit, or whatever you want. As big or as little as you want. But if you have big plans in the future, you might consider going big now. You are already paying the labor, why pay it twice.

kornhuskerwizard

i went through engnbldr.com and also went with there head and rv cam. i broke it in nicely and drive the hell out of it now. going on 8000 miles on rebuild, uses no oil, coolant and there prices are great and good customer service too. im a hillbilly on a hillbilly budget...