beach_yota

Well i have no idea when the last time the a/c worked in my 86 4runner was, but id really like to get it running again for the spring and summer. there is zero freon in it currently, (last little bit came out when i pulled the motor over the summer), and the compressor appears to be in good shape. Is there anything i need to do other than charge the system with the right amount of R-12?

brianh699

Has the system been sealed the entire time? I would replace the drier regardless, the expansion valves have a tendency to clog. You will need to pull a vacuum on the system prior to filling.

beach_yota

System has not been sealed the entire time. The compressor was unhooked from everything else for about 2 months over the summer

beach_yota

is there a way for me to pull a vacuum myself or will I have to find someone with an r12 machine?

slow-mo

Big ditto on this, especially since you state that the A/C system has been left open to the atmosphere for 2 months. And get the OEM Denso A/C drier:

http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog/



It's not so much of an R-12 machine as an automotive A/C vacuum pump. As an example:

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-sta...ump-66466.html



It also may be a good time to replace all the o-rings in the system. By now the rubber o-rings will be old and may not seal anymore.

TNRabbit

I would guess the seals are dried out, too.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you can find R12 it is going to be real expensive!!!

Then before you even get that far you might have leaks to repair. Why was it not working and open to the air so long??

You might want to think of converting to R134A just for ease of finding refrigerant as needed

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

GET DENSO O-RINGS, period...

I restored my R12 System... New Drier, 17 New O-rings... Cleaned out the Condensor and hoses and compressor very well and then 'drew it down' with a quality vacuum pump, AFTER replacing every o-ring in the system(Dealership, you can walk in and grab R12 o-rings still... If you're cool to them and ask to speak really quickly with the dealerships shop foreman... he will likely double check with you on which of the Orings you need... "Black or Brown"... OEM Stuff that was sent to many shops and even stock in many Japanese Auto's from Denso were an Aqua Blue color... I used those for the 4 larger ones on both the high and low valve fittings on top of the compressor(THEY ARE NOTORIOUSLY the most common to blow out on these systems... Clean under there REALLY well and then oil them with a lil mineral R12 oil and slap the high and low valve covers/hose fittings back on top of the compressor...)........and VERY lastly, install, as said, the NEW-OEM Drier. They are HATEFUL to you if you let them sniff out the open air at all... They gather moisture... and if you have humidity in the air, like I do, ... well, it will GRAB EVERY BIT OF IT that it can get it's succubus nature latched onto! lol.

Here, you can CLEARLY see where that compromised High Pressure Valve O-Ring had sprung... and POOF, over a short time,... you lose enough pressure that the clutch will no longer be allowed to engage>>>



Here is this location ON the compressor...(BE CAREFUL cleaning these areas... These systems have TINY holes in the accumulator, etc., which is why most AC pros will tell you "NEVER use the gas with the 'SEALER' in it... EVER!"... Bottom line, you don't want debris... Here it was dirty, then both of them cleaned......







This is the crap that was just on ONE valve to compressor mating hole surface....



Then I slapped it all back together and before putting in the drier, I installed ALL the o-rings in the system... Large hose to threaded portion of valves o-rings went on......>>>



Then the other side of the same hoses to the accumulator, those o-rings.....



(Gotta pull the grill to get to several of the o-rings on both sides of the condenser.. And to replace the Drier.... You might want to grab some of these, like I did, to be 'prepared for them snapping into 20 pieces, like mine did.... ' ... "Grill Mounting Clips".....





Here is the o-ring that blew.... You can see it doesn't take much. It's next to the Denso/Japan R12 O-rings that my buddies shop still had in an OLDDDDDDD shelf of 'stuff'.....



Here's the proof for ya.... DEALERSHIP, walked right in... "Voila", said my now retired parts counter buddy at DCH Toyota.... >>>



Also, ... if your dealer has em... GET NEW SCHRADER VALVES for the High and Low.... MOST auto repair stores have that tool in the back... But you have to ask and HOPE they know what the heck your talking about(if they're like most of the stores around me... You might find 2 people of 20 from 10 stores that know what a schrader valve is! lol)... Most sellers of these valves, if you can't get the OEM(I couldn't, so I went with these(O'reilly's had them..and the install/removal tool.. and here's the part numbers if you're wanting to grab em, ...like TODAY, haha......



After conditioning/cleaning the entire system...FIRST THING, before buttoning up the large allen bolts on the compressor... I found a POUR bottle of NEW/OLD Stock R12 Oil(DO NOT use 134 OIL with R12... It creates a corrosive atmosphere for the seals and compressors will NOT like it for long ) .... and added 2oz, directly into the compressor... After all, I just pulled down on it as well as possible, added "made for cleaning ac" products in before pulling THOSE out as well into the Vacuum Pump Reservoir... AND THEN, after all was sealed up... I pulled 40# vacuum on the system with the same vacuum pump, .....and let it sit... FOR 12 HOURS. It didn't lose 1 POUND... not one, in 12 hours.. NOW I was ready to charge with that NOT SO CHEAP .... eh chemmmmmmmm, 'OLD SCHOOL STUFF'...

KEY; Make CERTAIN that there is NO rust, NONE, on the cans you get on ebay or wherever. Second? When charging from the low side.... MAKE SURE that you get the fitting on the right way the first time... OR, that COLD AS ICE crap will be gone in seconds... ESPECIALLY if you're doing "Freon/Oil" combo cans.... Those come with 2oz. each, oil and R12.... You'll need at least 2 of those... as you need at least 4oz oil... This will leave around 12oz, IIRC, that you need of R12, to fully charge the PROPERLY evac'd system.

Best wishes... Stop by my build thread any time if you need anything... Or pm me.. whatever. I'm IN NO WAY a pro... and I welcome anyone to dispute what I'm saying... After all... I DO NOT want to cause anyone to destroy anything! lol... Just what I learned along the way while doing the same.

beach_yota

ChiefYota4x4 thank you so much for that. that was an awesome write up and itll definitely help me a lot as i restore my system. what did you use to clean all your components? and when you went to the dealership, did you just ask them for all the o rings for your a/c system or did you have to give them specifics? and are the schrader valves different from standard valve cores? i seriously know next to nothing about a/c other than all the components and how they work together. This whole thing is a learn as i go experience

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You can get all the parts you need at your local auto parts store as I've rebuilt just a few old AC systems that were neglected, busted or just worn the hekc out. You will still need some AC cables to recharge the system as if you can't pressure test it to make sure it holds refrigerant you are just wasting time and money on new parts.

:wabbit2: