whitetaco02

Ok, I have an 88 4runner, 22re, at, with 145,000 miles on it.

Here we go:
My truck uses about a 1/2-3/4 quart of oil every two weeks give or take depending on my driving. I was told it was most likely my valve seats. I was thinking of buying the cylinder head from LC engineering with the cam and everything else already done up for around 1300 bux, complete bolt on. I need the cam for more power.

My question is, do you think this will solve my oil problem? My mechanic ran a compression test and I had 170 psi in all 4 cylinders. Is there anything in the short block that could be causing the oil consumption? I would hate to spend all this money on the head and not fix the problem.

What else do I need to look for? If he takes the head off to replace with the LC, is there anything else I should do while it is off? It does not smoke when I drive, only when I get on it a bit. I have NO leaks whatsoever so I know that is not the issue. I do a have a big black stain in my driveway from soot(?) blowing out of my exhaust pipe. Thanks and anything else I need to know will be great!! Thanks

mr toytech

the valve seat will not cause oil consumpsion. he probabley said the valve seals. i would not replace the head for that. if anything i would replace the seals and lap the valves back into the seats and put it back together.

javadoody

then pick up a cam from ted at engnbldr.com.

whitetaco02

sorry, i knew it was one of them. thanks

what if there were some other issues while he was in there? what exactly does lap the vlaves mean? would i need to get all new valves, seals, seats, etc...?

whitetaco02

are they better than LC's? Or the same but cheaper?

dcg9381

In my experience it's not the head that typically causes oil consumption, it's the rings. Do a leak down test before you spend money on a head that you might not need.

At $1300, you're spending big bucks on a head.
At that kind of money, I'd be comparing the cost and flow rate of the DOA head and the LC engineering head.

I'd also strongly consider Ted's head. His son does port work if you're really looking for a head that flows some air.. I've never seen the bench flow results, but if it's typical Ted quality, it'd be the best option.

whitetaco02

yeah, i was going to see about the leak down test. how long does that usually take? will it pretty much tell what exactly is wrong with the engine that is causing the oil consumption? I forgot about ted's heads. (that sounds funny) i have been checking his site so that may be the way i go if it comes to it.

AH64ID

If its not the rings get a head from engnbldr, no need for a LC or DOA head...

notanymore

iv heard bad things about DOAs service and LC is rather spendy but they do have good products but i would go for engnbldr, im not sure how he compares performance wise but he is a great guy to deal with and will be cheaper than LC $$ wise

paxil4x4

If your thinking about doing a head replacement based on oil consumption with the figures your giving. I would call it false economy. Oil is cheap and as long as it is not blowing blue smoke out of the tail pipe and or fouling the plugs out I would just leave it alone.

How many miles are you putting on in those weeks?

dcg9381

It shouldn't take long.
Pull plugs. You need to position the engine rotation appropriately so the valves are closed and the engine isn't going to turn over, then apply pressure.
Repeat for all 4 cylinders.

It's a good indication of general ring and valve seat condition.
It's not a test that is particular to the oil rings, but it's the best you can do without full teardown and inspection.

whitetaco02

yeah, i just checked his site and i like his price a lot better. i think if i do do this, i am going to get new rings anyways. couldn't hurt??

whitetaco02

i only drive 14 miles a day so it isn't much. put it this way: I am afraid to drive it out of the county. I don't trust it and with hunting season coming up, i want to make sure i am not left stranded. the oil consumption is getting worse though cause i used to be able to go around 400 miles before having to add oil. now it is like half of that.

whitetaco02

ok, thanks

whitetaco02

any other opinions?

dcg9381

I'm not a fan of throwing new rings into an old motor. New rings must mate to a properly machined surface. If you want to do it that way might get some opinions on it.

Ted's base heads aren't ported, so don't compare them dollar per dollar to DOA or LC. Ask him about port work if you want one that's been worked over...

whitetaco02

i am just worried about getting a head and cam and then putting stress on the small block stock portion of the motor. should that be a concern?

ShortyzKustomz

I got my head done at a local shop, Cleaned, checked, shaved, mild port, new valve seats and seals for $165. That'd be my recomendation. I just did that along with a new headgasket and some more mods, Now my truck holds 45+ lbs of oil pressure at idle (Installed an autometer mechanical guage too) and runs great

toyotatom93

I dont want to start a new thread or hijack this one, but I am pretty much in the same boat.

93 22RE 4x4 and it puffs when first started and puffs when you step on it. Other then that smoke is not noticable. 150 psi on a compression test. And it goes thru about a quart of oil a month or 6 weeks.

It has to get the timing chain replaced, and I was wondering if I should do my heads at the same time. I also was wondering if that would stop what seems to be my valve seals from leaking. And if it will give a noticable HP boost.
I would like to rebuild the whole thing but I cant afford it and my mechanic says there is no point yet. But I want to rebuild the block as well at some point.

Having said that I think I have an issue with a CV joint but not sure what the cause really is; it is just making a big cracking sound on the right side when I crank the steering wheel to the right, but sometimes on a eneaven surface I only crank it like 3/4 and it still cracks. It also makes a sound on the left but it's not as bad.

I for sure am doing the timing chain, but not really sure what else to do at the same time as I can only afford one more thing. The engine or the cracking sound (wich hopefully is just really bad worn stops and hopefully not more then $1000 to fix.)

ewong

I put a freshly machine head on an old bottom end....
If i had to do it over Id do a ring job..

But since I out another 100K on the motor and its now at 350K.. I really cant complain that the rings are getting "weak"

When that fresh head first went on - wow...(for about 20-30K...)