Jason428sc

Hi guys,
I've run into a problem with my 1994 4x4 pickup. It has the 4 cylinder engine. I cranked it the other morning and started to pull out of my driveway and it died. After that it would not start anymore. It's getting fire to the plugs but not the fuel pump. I jumped the FP through the diagnostic port and the fuel pump came on. I tried to start it with the jumper wire in, but it still would not start. I replaced the relay in the passenger side kick panel above the ECM box and still nothing, it spins over but does not start. I can hear the relay in the passenger footbox clicking when I crank the engine over. I checked the fuses and swapped out the EFI relay with the starter relay. I don't know what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

vermontoyota

It could be your cold start injector or cold start injector switch. The last time my truck had spark, air and a functioning fuel pump that's what it was.

I would have to crank mine for a long long time when cold / cool out. Like 5 minutes. Really hard on it. Eventually it would start to limp to life. But it would still need warmup time to drive. Try cranking it and tapping the throttle periodically and see if it starts eventually.

Hurakane

Jason,wanta save some headache now and in the long run? get rid of that EFI junk and convert it to Carb. Iam building a brand new 22R now for my 87 4x4,when i bought it. the guy was having issues with it starting,then very abruptly dieing. everything i could find,kept leading tadat damned EFI. I took the motor out,and iam building a new. My last 1 was a 83 with the carb setup,and that truck was a jus wont die monster,it wasnt a Baja truck,but she didnt know that. 22R setups in my opinion or so much easier to maintain and operate

Mr.Utah

Need more info, is this a daily driver, or has it been sitting. Miles. When was the last tune up? Have you tried some starter fluid,etc.

I would start by checking some simple things first. If you have not replaced the fuel filter in a while, do it. How are the plugs and air cleaner? Bad fuel? filthy throttle body and or injectors?

2big4arunner

There isn't really a reason to switch to a carb just to fix an issue. I would probably start looking to make sure that your pickup on the ignition is firing at the right time. Its pretty typical that the first thing a shop would check is ignition and timing. I hope you have done this already.

scope103

As the others have said, you want to start with the simple stuff, then run through it in order. Check the timing (you can do that just by cranking). Since you've confirmed the fuel pump is running, you can try (CAREFULLY) to crack the line at the cold start injector to see if fuel sprays out. Pull the plugs and look at them; wet plugs suggests no spark (at least not at the right time), dry plugs suggest no fuel.

When you crank it, does it fire? Or just spin? If you're sure the plugs/ignition are timed correctly, that sounds like a fuel problem.

As to a carburetor, I can only wish Hurakane "good luck." I've worked on lots of vehicles with carburetors, and they are intrinsically fiddly mechanical hacks. I'd never go back.

Jason428sc

thanks guys for all the great info. After checking everything last night it was the timing that was off. Not sure how it got off so much so fast because it was running great and all of a sudden, nothing. I had to pull the distributor out and move it by one tooth on the gear. Now it runs fine. Do you guys think the timing chain jumped or the distributor/cam gears are wearing out? Thanks.

kuehjo

Yeah - that's NEVER a good thing if you weren't doing something mechanical to it at the same time... If you were able to properly set the timing again, maybe it was just loose and sort of "slopped" out of time - but that really isn't supposed to happen...

Mileage?
Last timing service?

And BTW - I agree - I would NEVER go back to carbuereted.... The more I use it the more I love EFI. Yes - it takes a LITTLE more diagnosis - but its so easy to work on if you DO have the right tools - and the problems are usually straight forward when you have them, and easy to diagnose. Yours doesn't sound like a fuel issue though...

Hurakane

i get alot of mixed reviews on those carbs. but ive always used them and they work good for me,but i understand,some things work better than others and vice versa.
i jus took out a 22RE and putting in a brand new 22R. Iam putting a 38 weber ele. choke
with the offenhauser intake and a few other little things

Jason428sc

Well I thought I was in the clear but, the truck doesn't have any midrange power. It idles fine and drive good but does not have accellerate as it should especially driving up a hill. I'm thinking maybe a guide may have broken and the chain is loose? I can hear a noise coming that area sometimes when idling. Any ideas?

Green 88

If you go up a hill that's too steep for the carb your engine will die and you'll be stuck on a steep incline with no engine, no power brakes, no power steering, etc... As an off roader, I would never go back to a carb under any circumstances.

lim50

IMHO Sounds like its time to pull the rocker cover and take a look. Check out the timing marks,inspect the cam lobes and rocker arms ,chain,guides and dist gear. Might as well adjust the valves will your in there. Of course you may find more than you wanted to see ! (LOL) Hang in there.

2big4arunner

Yeah, if your vehicle was running then suddenly stopped and you found the distributor out a tooth but you still dont have a midrange then I would assume that your timing skipped a tooth and have timing issues.

I know on the v6 you have to jump terminals to set the timing properly. Might want to check with some of the 22re owners to see if that is the case.

Mr.Utah

This is your problem: loose or broken vacuum line, follow my advice above, it should fix it. remember to retime and adjust idle speed. Your timing is going to be way off!

I have been through many of these situations. If you dont check/replace your vavuum lines, dont keep asking, What could it be?

Good luck,

Mr.Utah

wow, I just checked out my advice above and what I thought was there was :
check/replace all vacuum tubing, very cheap.
re-time motor.
adjust warm idle.
re-time motor again.
adjust idle if needed.

I have had similar problems that drove me nuts for over a year. Did the above, purrs like a kitten.

Some small vacuum leaks are difficult at best to detect....the result feels like a damaged motor. try this simple and cheap fix.

nkea22

truck was running when I touched connectors e1 and fp truck stopped running .whers my problem?.touched connectors fp and b still a no start.runs a minute if I add fuel to cylinders

scope103

Hmmm. E1 is ground, FP is fuel pump. You grounded the fuel pump line when it was running; I'll bet you got a pretty good spark!

If the fuel pump now doesn't run with FP connected to B+ (can you hear the pump?) you could have fried the wiring to the diagnostic connector. With key on, check for 12v at B+, and continuity to ground on FP (you're measuring the resistance of the fuel pump, which should be less than about 10ohms.)

You might also have fried the Circuit Opening Relay when you grounded it, but even with a dead COR the fuel pump should run with the jumper.