My truck won't start: 89 3VZE Auto
02-06-2011, 12:03 PM
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My truck won't start: 89 3VZE Auto
This is driving me crazy...here's what's new on my truck:
Brand new Battery
Brand new spark plugs
Newer Ignition Coil
Newly installed fuel regulator
Radiator's been newly flushed
OK...so what's the prob?
My 89 3VZE Auto will not turn over...just crank, crank, crank, a few rumbles, then just more cranking.
It just won't get to the point where it will turn over and stay on. I had to replace the battery, because the cranking was causing the battery to die and then nothing would happen.
With new battery that doesn't happen, but I don't know where to go next. I've had two mechanics say the start is not the issue, so.......
Really annoying...
On a related note:
Truck is SLOOOOOOOOOW to accelerate, especially climbing hills. I mean like crazy slow when in 2wd. In 4WD, especially 4Lo, it's a monster and will climb anything.
The other day I stalled out at a stop light and had to start her again. That's never happened before, so not sure if that's related.
I had mechanic run a compression test, and he said it's (110 on each cylinder).
I just thought I would give as much info as I possibly could so someone might be able to lead me in a direction.
Thanks,
CB
Brand new Battery
Brand new spark plugs
Newer Ignition Coil
Newly installed fuel regulator
Radiator's been newly flushed
OK...so what's the prob?
My 89 3VZE Auto will not turn over...just crank, crank, crank, a few rumbles, then just more cranking.
It just won't get to the point where it will turn over and stay on. I had to replace the battery, because the cranking was causing the battery to die and then nothing would happen.
With new battery that doesn't happen, but I don't know where to go next. I've had two mechanics say the start is not the issue, so.......
Really annoying...
On a related note:
Truck is SLOOOOOOOOOW to accelerate, especially climbing hills. I mean like crazy slow when in 2wd. In 4WD, especially 4Lo, it's a monster and will climb anything.
The other day I stalled out at a stop light and had to start her again. That's never happened before, so not sure if that's related.
I had mechanic run a compression test, and he said it's (110 on each cylinder).
I just thought I would give as much info as I possibly could so someone might be able to lead me in a direction.
Thanks,
CB
02-06-2011, 12:14 PM
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When did this problem occur and did it time with any of the above changes?
Are you getting spark?
Are you getting fuel?
Was the distributor / timing messed with? Do you know that its right?
Checked the fuel filter?
Are you getting spark?
Are you getting fuel?
Was the distributor / timing messed with? Do you know that its right?
Checked the fuel filter?
02-06-2011, 01:05 PM
#4
110 psi is HORRIBLE compression. You wanna know why it's a slug? There's your reason!
From the FSM:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...66compress.pdf
I wouldn't be too concerned about it not starting. It needs rebuilt, BADLY. Then go from there.
If you don't, it's not going to run very much longer anyways. Stop wasting your time and money on things that aren't going to fix the bigger issue. Worry about the small stuff later.
BTW, what codes does it have at the moment. Odds are it's trying to tell you what the ignition problem is. If not then I'll bet money it's a HUGE vacuum leak coming from somewhere you haven't looked yet.
From the FSM:
COMPRESSION CHECK
HINT: If there is lack of power, excessive oil con–
sumptiom or poor fuel economy, measure the com–
pression pressure.
Compression pressure:
1,177 kPa (12.0 kg f/cm2, 171 psi) .
Minimum pressure:
981 kPa (10.0 kg f/cm2, 142 psi)
Difference between each cylinder:
98 kPa (1.0 kg f/cm2, 14 psi) or less
HINT: If there is lack of power, excessive oil con–
sumptiom or poor fuel economy, measure the com–
pression pressure.
Compression pressure:
1,177 kPa (12.0 kg f/cm2, 171 psi) .
Minimum pressure:
981 kPa (10.0 kg f/cm2, 142 psi)
Difference between each cylinder:
98 kPa (1.0 kg f/cm2, 14 psi) or less
I wouldn't be too concerned about it not starting. It needs rebuilt, BADLY. Then go from there.
If you don't, it's not going to run very much longer anyways. Stop wasting your time and money on things that aren't going to fix the bigger issue. Worry about the small stuff later.
BTW, what codes does it have at the moment. Odds are it's trying to tell you what the ignition problem is. If not then I'll bet money it's a HUGE vacuum leak coming from somewhere you haven't looked yet.
Last edited by MudHippy; 02-06-2011 at 01:07 PM.
02-07-2011, 06:35 AM
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Guys, great responses and I'll try to answer them the best that I can:
I've been told it's not the fuel pump...smells a little rich when idling (when it does idle!!), but again, I can double check to ensure that's working properly.
Distributor and timing were messed with, but my mechanic told me it was correct...relying upon his word.
I guess my biggest concern at this point is paying to have it rebuilt. Definitely not something that I can do at this point by myself...I think I want to sell it, and cut my losses, so if I can get it to crank and start, then I can sell it and look for another.
I paid $1900 for it and have $300 invested so far...wonder if anyone is interested???
I've been told it's not the fuel pump...smells a little rich when idling (when it does idle!!), but again, I can double check to ensure that's working properly.
Distributor and timing were messed with, but my mechanic told me it was correct...relying upon his word.
I guess my biggest concern at this point is paying to have it rebuilt. Definitely not something that I can do at this point by myself...I think I want to sell it, and cut my losses, so if I can get it to crank and start, then I can sell it and look for another.
I paid $1900 for it and have $300 invested so far...wonder if anyone is interested???
02-07-2011, 08:52 AM
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I'd do a leak-down test to see why the compression is SO bad; never even HEARD of 3.0 compression that low on all cylinders. Did the mechanic do this with a warm engine, all spark plugs removed, & throttle wide open per the FSM? 110 on all cylinders is a HIGHLY suspicious number.....never heard of one with same numbers in each cylinder.
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