My truck keeps stalling out after 15 minutes
04-09-2010, 03:51 AM
#1
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My truck keeps stalling out after 15 minutes
It's a 1989 DLX Reg cab short bed. 5 speed manual. 22-RE
I bought this truck back in January. Drove great for the first month, then bam, out of nowhere it stalled out on me. So I show it to a couple mechanic friends of mine, had the one guy help me change all of the following:
new radiator
new water pump
new belts (all 3)
tune-up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, TB cleaned, air filter, fuel filter
oil changed
New ECU - There was a rust hole in the firewall and the old one looked like it got wet.
New battery and clutch within the last 3,000 miles (says the previous owner)
So after getting all that stuff fixed, it idles and drives great, but after about 15 minutes of driving, it stalls out. It takes about 15 minutes to be able to restart it after that. Any ideas??? I don't know what else to do... just listed the damn thing on Craigslist, I'm so sick of it.
I bought this truck back in January. Drove great for the first month, then bam, out of nowhere it stalled out on me. So I show it to a couple mechanic friends of mine, had the one guy help me change all of the following:
new radiator
new water pump
new belts (all 3)
tune-up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, TB cleaned, air filter, fuel filter
oil changed
New ECU - There was a rust hole in the firewall and the old one looked like it got wet.
New battery and clutch within the last 3,000 miles (says the previous owner)
So after getting all that stuff fixed, it idles and drives great, but after about 15 minutes of driving, it stalls out. It takes about 15 minutes to be able to restart it after that. Any ideas??? I don't know what else to do... just listed the damn thing on Craigslist, I'm so sick of it.
Last edited by kovz; 04-09-2010 at 05:34 AM.
04-09-2010, 05:17 AM
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Interesting. I've never heard of that. I just called the local import auto shop. They said $70 to run their diagnostic equipment on it. Should I pony up and do that to see what it is?
04-10-2010, 06:46 PM
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Since this problem started suddenly, I don't really think this is the problem, but this is just a thought:
When you did the tune-up, did you check/adjust valve clearance? If this problem started slowly, I could see a valve or valves being a little tight. Then, once the motor warms up, it loses the clearance and the valve or valves stop closing all the way. But then again, I don't see the head cooling off enough in 15 minutes to change anything. IDK, it was a thought, I wanted to add my 2 cents.
I'm curious to know what you find out.
When you did the tune-up, did you check/adjust valve clearance? If this problem started slowly, I could see a valve or valves being a little tight. Then, once the motor warms up, it loses the clearance and the valve or valves stop closing all the way. But then again, I don't see the head cooling off enough in 15 minutes to change anything. IDK, it was a thought, I wanted to add my 2 cents.
I'm curious to know what you find out.
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04-10-2010, 07:14 PM
#8
This kind of issue has nothing to do with valves if it will runs a period of time then cut off. Sounds like a fuel issue. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into the intake or a vac hose on the intake to see if it will start and run? If so its a fuel issue and could be fuel pump/filter related or signal related. Is there a check engine light? Check wires coming off the ignitor running across the motor over the valve cover. Are they broke or cracked and touching metal?
04-11-2010, 03:57 AM
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04-11-2010, 05:16 AM
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im with junkers 88 on this one. sounds like vapor lock. my 87 did the same thing until i changed the charcoal canisters. try to drive it for a bit (10 minutes) before it stalls then pull the gas cap off. if you hear a big whoosh of air its vapor lock
09-12-2011, 10:29 AM
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I know this is an old post but, I have the same problem with my 91 22-RE. It will run for 3-5 minutes then just die, like somebody turned off the key. But, it has no problem starting back up immediately with no lag time to cool off.
I have replaced the coil, igniter, signal generator(inside the distributor), and afm. Also all of the dash gauges are dead, no responce whatsoever so I cant pull any codes. (I have manual gauges so I do know what is going on with things).
I can jump the fuel pump through diagnistic port and it will run every time, so I know it is still good.
Am I missing something?
I have replaced the coil, igniter, signal generator(inside the distributor), and afm. Also all of the dash gauges are dead, no responce whatsoever so I cant pull any codes. (I have manual gauges so I do know what is going on with things).
I can jump the fuel pump through diagnistic port and it will run every time, so I know it is still good.
Am I missing something?
09-12-2011, 11:04 AM
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Sold this truck, but finally figured out the problem. Sorry for not updating this thread. I just got an email notification for it.
From another forum I posted on back when I was working on this:
Hope this helps.
From another forum I posted on back when I was working on this:
I had about 12 emails then I took it off CL. I dropped it off at a shop to run diagnostics on it. They said the temperature sensor is out of whack. I'm waiting to hear back from them on a price.
I am going to pick up the truck tonight. They said the coolant temperature sensor is really out of whack. I am going to order the sensor and install it myself. Hoping that fixes the problem of why it kept stalling out after driving for 10 minutes, and then it would take 15 minutes to restart.
If this fixes the problem, I am undecided if I will keep or sell the truck. Depends on how reliable it is.
I am going to pick up the truck tonight. They said the coolant temperature sensor is really out of whack. I am going to order the sensor and install it myself. Hoping that fixes the problem of why it kept stalling out after driving for 10 minutes, and then it would take 15 minutes to restart.
If this fixes the problem, I am undecided if I will keep or sell the truck. Depends on how reliable it is.
Well I picked up the truck last night from the Import Export auto shop. When I started it up, it was running really rough. It even stalled out when I went to take off. So I fired her back up and drove about 2 miles down the road to the auto parts store to order the coolant temperature sensor (gotta wait 3-5 days for it to come in). Well when I left the auto parts store, I get in my truck and went to start it up again... crank, crank, crank, no start.
I jumpered the pins in the diagnostic box and got codes 22 (water temperature signal) and 51 (IDL sensor - this is a result of the TPS or Water Temp sensor being messed up) on my CEL.
After waiting 15 minutes for the engine to cool off, I tried again and it started right up. Drove another 2 miles home and parked it in the driveway. Went to start it up again after that and same thing... no start.
I was told on a toyota forum after explain all of that:
Quote
It could be just the temp sensor, if it is really screwed up. The computer uses the temp. to control fuel delivery, etc., especially at start up. Too bad you have to wait for the part. I hope that's all it is.
So 3-5 days for the $19 sensor to come in. Hope that fixes the problem. Will update in a few days.
I jumpered the pins in the diagnostic box and got codes 22 (water temperature signal) and 51 (IDL sensor - this is a result of the TPS or Water Temp sensor being messed up) on my CEL.
After waiting 15 minutes for the engine to cool off, I tried again and it started right up. Drove another 2 miles home and parked it in the driveway. Went to start it up again after that and same thing... no start.
I was told on a toyota forum after explain all of that:
Quote
It could be just the temp sensor, if it is really screwed up. The computer uses the temp. to control fuel delivery, etc., especially at start up. Too bad you have to wait for the part. I hope that's all it is.
So 3-5 days for the $19 sensor to come in. Hope that fixes the problem. Will update in a few days.
Sold the truck last night. This guy came and looked at it twice this weekend. He ended up finding my post on a Toyota forum...
So he knew the whole entire truth behind the truck. He had it towed up to a shop a couple days ago and they finally got it running today. Needed a coolant temperature switch (I already replaced it - so I thought...) but apparently there was another. The TPS sensor may still need replaced or at least adjusted.
It needs a new Cat because I cut the old one off. It looked old as ˟˟˟˟ and sounded like it was clogged. I had to weigh that out as being one of the reasons it wasn't running.
So needless to say, he still has to put a couple hundred into the truck. I'm glad to get rid of it.
So he knew the whole entire truth behind the truck. He had it towed up to a shop a couple days ago and they finally got it running today. Needed a coolant temperature switch (I already replaced it - so I thought...) but apparently there was another. The TPS sensor may still need replaced or at least adjusted.
It needs a new Cat because I cut the old one off. It looked old as ˟˟˟˟ and sounded like it was clogged. I had to weigh that out as being one of the reasons it wasn't running.
So needless to say, he still has to put a couple hundred into the truck. I'm glad to get rid of it.
09-12-2011, 11:34 AM
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I will try the coolant sensor, which one is the coolant sensor? When you look at the front of the intake , is the the left one (green plug) or the right one (black plug)?
09-12-2011, 01:20 PM
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I believe it was the green one, but I don't remember 100%. Either way, that is the one I replaced and it did not fix the problem. There was ANOTHER coolant sensor switch that I was unaware of. The guy who bought it from me said he took it to a shop and they figured it out and replaced the switch for him.
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