934rnr

I have a weird thing going on.
Last night I was driving everything was good. I gave my truck some gas after the light turned green I shifted to second and my motor stalled.
I tried to restart it nothing I attempted a couple of times. It started for like a second and quit again.
I had to push it myself off a busy street and into a doctors parking lot.
There I checked a couple things.
I pulled the distributor it rotates with the motor. I am getting spark.
I jumpered the fuel relay to bypass to make sure I was getting fuel it works.
I attempted restarting it still nothing.
There is plenty of oil in it and the radiator seems full too.

I checked the codes I am getting 11 flashes total so code 11 I assume.
The truck does not have A/C so I don't know why it has a code 11 either.
I found this topic http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-su...on-timing.html
So I might play with the TPS to see if helps at all.

I have also gotten mixed bags of info on code 11 as well.
code 11 Switch signal.
code 11 ECU/ECM.
Another link to codes here:http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/

Code 11

SWITCH SIGNALS

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU

So if the other things like the TPS or the neutral start switch check out does this mean my ecu is fried?

I am lost at this point.
I am kinda frustrated no money to really throw at it and I just want to get my 4 runner home it died only 1/2 mile from my home.

myyota

My cousins 86 4Runner just did the same thing last week, was driving like you and it just quit, he got a code 11 as well and it turned out to be a bad TPS, 120.00 dollars later and it was fixed and has been running good ever since.

934rnr

Ouch well I think I might visit the junkyard.

ricky

I replaced the TPS in my truck at one point due to a completely different problem. Turned out my TPS was fine. I still have it somewhere, however it's off of a 3rzfe. I doubt it's the same.

934rnr

Well I changed the TPS no change.
It starts for like 5 seconds and dies. Then it won't start again.
Still code 11. I checked the wires to the neutral safety switch no frays they look intact.
I dunno if I should change out the neutral safety sensor on the transmission or what at this point.
If not my ecu is hosed I guess. I am kinda stumped.

I remember when I installed the motor and tried to start it the fuel injector ground wasn't hooked up and it ran and died.
We hooked it up and then it stayed running. It's kind of similar of what it's doing.
It almost seems like a fuel system problem like the injectors aren't working or they squirt once and that's it.
I am leaning to a grounding issue. I am going to try it tomorrow and see what happens.

jpmountainboy

did you just slap a new on in, or did you actually adjust it with a meter and feeler gauge?

toyota4x4907

maybe you have two or more codes and you didn't read them correctly?
just a thought..

934rnr

Nope when it blinks 11 with no pauses and blinks 11 over again. I think I am reading the code right.
Yes I did slap a tps on there I had marked the throttle body where the old one came off.
If the tps was bad and you put another one on even if it was out of adjustment it should still technically run.
It's far too cold out to try and adjust it right now. I just want to bloody thing to run...
If it's warmer tomorrow I will adjust the tps. However I don't think the tps is the culprit.

934rnr

Did more diagnostics this morning it's looking more and more like a bad ecu.
I am getting fuel and spark. runs for 2 seconds because of the cold start injector.
The neutral safety switch is fine.

I also did a search found this as well. It's almost the exact thing going on with mine.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...98/index2.html

934rnr

Ok made a little progress here.
Upon installation of a newer 1990's 22re ecu pn# 89661-35150 NQ.
I got the following codes 21 and 51 so 21 is saying I have a faulty 02 sensor circuit and 51 is the same as code 11 bad tps / neutral start switch.
So I got one more code than the old 22re ecu pn# 89661-35070 NG.
At least I know a newer 1990's ecu will work as long as I have the connectors 10p 18p 14p most of them are interchangeable.

Flash319

I would not think that your ECU is bad. They are very robust and since you were not submerged in water when it quite that would be the very very last thing to consider.

I would be looking to your pickup in the distributor. That is what times your injectors so if there is no pulse then no injector firing. A bad TPS will not cause a no start condition. Of course check all your fuses. O2 sensor will not cause a no start condition either.

If you are talking about your 86, then you also have a resistor for the injectors on the passenger side fender wall. It may not be grounding to the body properly or it is bad. Also check continuity between the resistor and each injector. It think they are al the yellow wires that go to the injectors.

89whitetoyota

Did a fuel line malfunction happen? Fuel sending unit, filter? If everything was running fine, and you checked that you got air and spark, did something in fuel delivery finally clog or give, or malfunction. I know you said you jumped it, but are you sure your getting adaquate fuel to the rail? I would pull the 19mm bolt of the fuel rail, right behind the throttle body, and turn the key to engage the pump and see if you get enough fuel to fill a 12oz can in about a minute. I replaced all my fuel lines, sending unit, and filter, and that was a mental note i made. It will only cast you a new crush washer for the 19mm bolt once you pull it off. It will let you know, at least, if the rail is getting adaquate volume of fuel. And its easy to do.

934rnr

I have cleaned everything grounds from battery to body, including the injector resistor and to the coil and ignitor. Could I have a bad ignitor even though it starts up?
It's getting fuel I also tested to see if the afm was triggering the fuel pump relay to come on and it is.
I am leaning towards a injector problem here. I wish I had a extra injector resistor or extra distributor right about now.

abecedarian

have you used a 'noid' light to check if the injectors are being pulsed?

934rnr

I also found the the camshaft was off.
It was off about 2 teeth. Basically at tdc the cam pulley dots should be at 1130 or close to 12. Mine were at 130.
I pulled the valve cover and popped the bolt off the camshaft and rotated the cam back a little and put the timing chain back on it.
SO lots of things wrong I guess I am in the process of fixing all of them.

abecedarian

I REALLY hope you checked the crank sprocket index as well.
I don't want to hear about you moving the camshaft a tooth or two and then finding you've got bent valves.

The cam and chain should only line up when the crank and chain line up too.
Turning the crank will throw the cam off until you come around that magic ratio of crank teeth and cam teeth... and I hope you understand.

abecedarian

if the cam is off two teeth, it's possible the crank is off 1 tooth- it's a 2:1 ratio... crank turns twice for every one turn of the cam.

934rnr

Ummm ya I've done a couple of timing chains on 22r's and re motors.
I know what I'm doing everything is set to how it's supposed to be.
That's why when you put the chain on you double check it by rotating it a couple times to make sure it goes back to where it was when you set it.
I have no idea why it was out like it was either. I don't think it jumped time and it had a new timing chain on it and guides. So all I can think of is the previous owner didn't set it correctly when they put the timing chain on the motor. Although when I checked it out and rotated it looked correct.

abecedarian

not sure what you mean by 'rotate it a couple times' to check. It would take more than a couple rotations of the crank to get the timing chain links back in place- rotate the crank "the number of links on the chain divided by the number of teeth on the crank sprocket" would be more precise.

934rnr

I mean the motor rotations by hand to tdc 4 times check the mark of tdc and the mark on the upper camshaft sprocket. Make sure the upper cam sprocket is where you set it to.