My compression results
08-19-2016, 02:20 PM
#21
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the question here is, what is the condition of the short block? throwing money at a head/valve replacement could be false economy in the long run, been there done that.
i seem to recall you mentioning that the p.o. didn't appear to have done much maintenance to the truck, it was basically abused when you got it? i wonder if the timing chain had ever been replaced, is the guide still intact? if he never changed the oil, the rings could be worn.
if the guide is still together, i would be tempted to get a used distributor from the junkyard, and just drive the thing 'till it drops, but also start looking for a used motor or even a core motor to rebuild, in the meantime... something that hadn't been overheated.
bakersfield is flat, you aren't going far right? just get aaa tow insurance.
i seem to recall you mentioning that the p.o. didn't appear to have done much maintenance to the truck, it was basically abused when you got it? i wonder if the timing chain had ever been replaced, is the guide still intact? if he never changed the oil, the rings could be worn.
if the guide is still together, i would be tempted to get a used distributor from the junkyard, and just drive the thing 'till it drops, but also start looking for a used motor or even a core motor to rebuild, in the meantime... something that hadn't been overheated.
bakersfield is flat, you aren't going far right? just get aaa tow insurance.
The Trans has a slight problem on 1st and 4th, I know the clutch will need replacing soon, it needs a paint job, the timing chain is rattling, the vacuum advance is shot and needs replacing and the leaf springs are shot especially the passenger side one lol
My compression test wasn't too bad so the bottom end can't be too bad and I think it runs great now. This is why I'm going to drop some cash on the top end but all these bad things is why I didn't want to spend so much on the head.
It needs so many other things worked on. Plus... it's a beater truck but it has to run good and be reliable for me to be happy. I'd love to have this as my daily work truck so reliable is a must.
My parents live in Los Angeles and I'd love to be able to drive my truck to Los Angeles that's why I want to replace the blown head gasket. I don't want to overheat going up the 5 mile 6% climb on the way.
After reading your post OSV, I feel much better. Now I just want to replace the head gasket, cyl #3 exhaust valve, resurface, new head bolts and the timing chain.
I already have the chain, water and oil pump and I ordered the HG kit, exh valve and head bolts before I went to bed this morning. The installed water and oil pump don't leak so I'll probably just save them for the replacement block I'll get.
08-19-2016, 06:58 PM
#22
well it sounds like you are gonna do it, keep us posted as it goes... i would suggest taking the truck to the car wash and blowing the entire engine off in the grease bay, before you start... changing water pumps is usually cheap insurance, if there is any sign of leakage out of the weep hole, be sure and change it now.
you might also want to look at some 22r head teardown vids... i don't know of any, but here is one that i shot on old vws, they are pushrod motors, so it won't help much, but this vid introduces relevant concepts like valve guide wear, head cracks, valve jobs, etc., maybe there will be something helpful in there.
you might also want to look at some 22r head teardown vids... i don't know of any, but here is one that i shot on old vws, they are pushrod motors, so it won't help much, but this vid introduces relevant concepts like valve guide wear, head cracks, valve jobs, etc., maybe there will be something helpful in there.
08-19-2016, 08:03 PM
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Thanks for the video link, I just took it to a coin car wash a few days ago and sprayed the engine down with the help of some purple power cleaner. It's way better than what it was.
I began to disassemble and I unbolted the exhaust manifold from the head and exhaust header along with the intake manifold right before I came to work.
When I get home I'll take out the radiator and whatever else I can.
It sucks working in my garage with 100+ degree outside temps but this has to be done
I have a 1 year old that requires a lot of attention...... luckily his brothers and sister keep him busy while I play in the garage
I should have the HG early next week and I want to have everything ready before it comes.
I began to disassemble and I unbolted the exhaust manifold from the head and exhaust header along with the intake manifold right before I came to work.
When I get home I'll take out the radiator and whatever else I can.
It sucks working in my garage with 100+ degree outside temps but this has to be done
I have a 1 year old that requires a lot of attention...... luckily his brothers and sister keep him busy while I play in the garage
I should have the HG early next week and I want to have everything ready before it comes.
Last edited by lalojamesliz; 08-20-2016 at 01:12 AM.
08-20-2016, 09:09 PM
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I took off the head this morning but I fell asleep when I was resting.
Piston #4 looks clean but I'll guess the coolant leak did that. #3 had the exhaust valve leak and that valve had a ton of build up on the valve. Way more than any other exhaust valve.
Before I removed the head I was worried about breaking a head bolt from the horror stories I've read on cylinders 2 and 4 being seized often.
I was lucky enough that I didn't have any problems whatsoever with the head bolts.
Both plastic chain guides are broken and I have some nice train tracks on the timing cover. This engine is beat up!
I will remove the oil pan tomorrow morning and I hope to get the chain replaced tomorrow also
Piston #4 looks clean but I'll guess the coolant leak did that. #3 had the exhaust valve leak and that valve had a ton of build up on the valve. Way more than any other exhaust valve.
Before I removed the head I was worried about breaking a head bolt from the horror stories I've read on cylinders 2 and 4 being seized often.
I was lucky enough that I didn't have any problems whatsoever with the head bolts.
Both plastic chain guides are broken and I have some nice train tracks on the timing cover. This engine is beat up!
I will remove the oil pan tomorrow morning and I hope to get the chain replaced tomorrow also
08-21-2016, 06:52 AM
#27
I hate to see another 22RE rebuild but it looks like you are doing every thing right. At this point you may want to consider just pulling the motor and doing every thing I the engine stand. Trust me you will save your self a lot of time and head ache.
08-21-2016, 09:57 AM
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If I pull the motor I'll just end up replacing the clutch and that's moooar mula 
My supposedly powerful impact wrench didn't have the power I thought it had to take off the crank pulley bolt ( aircrat 1150) but the socket swivel and 12" extension probably didn't help. So I used the starter with the breaker bar. But I think since I had the chain somewhat loose I think I broke my timing cover on the bottom. Here's a pic
I am replacing the water pump after all. The old one looks tired and has a little play.
Do you guys think I'll be OK using this cover since I broke a small area off in the of the timing cover with the flathead pointing at it?
I don't see how that guide is needed if the chain is on with tension but I don't know for sure.
My supposedly powerful impact wrench didn't have the power I thought it had to take off the crank pulley bolt ( aircrat 1150) but the socket swivel and 12" extension probably didn't help. So I used the starter with the breaker bar. But I think since I had the chain somewhat loose I think I broke my timing cover on the bottom. Here's a pic
I am replacing the water pump after all. The old one looks tired and has a little play.
Do you guys think I'll be OK using this cover since I broke a small area off in the of the timing cover with the flathead pointing at it?
I don't see how that guide is needed if the chain is on with tension but I don't know for sure.
Last edited by lalojamesliz; 08-21-2016 at 10:56 AM.
08-21-2016, 02:18 PM
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I don't have a engine stand, well not for a 4 cyl. I'm OK with the space I have working on it. But I do have a engine hoist. I need to lift the engine a little to pull the pan but other than that I'm cool
what do you think about my timing cover issue?
what do you think about my timing cover issue?
08-21-2016, 09:45 PM
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I just ordered a new timing cover. I didn't want to chance if my cover was still good with the broken lip. Plus either a stud or bolt from the middle of the water pump broke in the cover.
Last edited by lalojamesliz; 08-21-2016 at 09:48 PM.
08-23-2016, 11:51 AM
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I didn't know that I can return parts to rockuto until last night, I returned a couple things and I just ordered a steel guide timing kit from enginebldr (spelling? ) , a oem headgasket and I cleaned up the cylinder head and dropped it off for the resurface a few hours ago.
My local stealership wanted $63+ tax for the HG but I found it from a Toyota dealer online for $43 shipped
I decided not to cheap out on that part and the timing kit. My new water pump is aisin so I should be good for a long while as long as the bottom end is ok.
I was going to use a thread chaser on the head bolt threads for the new head bolts I bought but the machinist I took my head to said just clean them out really good (oil/water) and spray brake cleaner then blow it out with my air gun and do that a few times and I should be fine.
My local stealership wanted $63+ tax for the HG but I found it from a Toyota dealer online for $43 shipped
I decided not to cheap out on that part and the timing kit. My new water pump is aisin so I should be good for a long while as long as the bottom end is ok.
I was going to use a thread chaser on the head bolt threads for the new head bolts I bought but the machinist I took my head to said just clean them out really good (oil/water) and spray brake cleaner then blow it out with my air gun and do that a few times and I should be fine.
08-23-2016, 12:02 PM
#33
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I was going to use a thread chaser on the head bolt threads for the new head bolts I bought but the machinist I took my head to said just clean them out really good (oil/water) and spray brake cleaner then blow it out with my air gun and do that a few times and I should be fine.
Nothing short of chasing the threads will truly make them right.
Even after using solvents and air, a chaser, or tap, will bring stuff out of the roots of the threads.
Then use the solvent and air again. Belt AND Suspenders.
Last edited by millball; 08-23-2016 at 12:04 PM.
08-23-2016, 01:22 PM
#34
the problem is that junk in the threads can alter the torque reading... when cleaning up head stud threads in the block, the object is to not remove any metal.
what works well for that is an old head stud, that has a vertical cut down across the threads, i use a die grinder to make the cut.
it'll scoop up junk into the cut portion of the thread.
what works well for that is an old head stud, that has a vertical cut down across the threads, i use a die grinder to make the cut.
it'll scoop up junk into the cut portion of the thread.
08-23-2016, 05:27 PM
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When somebody who ought to know better says something stupid like this, Just smile and nod.
Nothing short of chasing the threads will truly make them right.
Even after using solvents and air, a chaser, or tap, will bring stuff out of the roots of the threads.
Then use the solvent and air again. Belt AND Suspenders.
Nothing short of chasing the threads will truly make them right.
Even after using solvents and air, a chaser, or tap, will bring stuff out of the roots of the threads.
Then use the solvent and air again. Belt AND Suspenders.
08-23-2016, 05:30 PM
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the problem is that junk in the threads can alter the torque reading... when cleaning up head stud threads in the block, the object is to not remove any metal.
what works well for that is an old head stud, that has a vertical cut down across the threads, i use a die grinder to make the cut.
it'll scoop up junk into the cut portion of the thread.
what works well for that is an old head stud, that has a vertical cut down across the threads, i use a die grinder to make the cut.
it'll scoop up junk into the cut portion of the thread.
08-24-2016, 04:57 AM
#37
This is going to be a train wreck.
Good call on the water pump. Personally I only run OEM head gaskets from the dealers since they have made a few changes and have updated PNs. I don't know if aftermarket suppliers offer the same quality and for a savings of $20 it's not worth the risk.
Good call on the water pump. Personally I only run OEM head gaskets from the dealers since they have made a few changes and have updated PNs. I don't know if aftermarket suppliers offer the same quality and for a savings of $20 it's not worth the risk.
08-24-2016, 01:57 PM
#39
maybe he means that it'll wreck your budget :-) we've all seen that on our trucks!
the troubleshooting you did looked to me like you made the right decision to pull the head, because driving that thing up the hill and into heavy l.a. traffic, in summer heat, would have been a bit dicey.
the troubleshooting you did looked to me like you made the right decision to pull the head, because driving that thing up the hill and into heavy l.a. traffic, in summer heat, would have been a bit dicey.
08-24-2016, 03:18 PM
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Thanks osv.
I'm just glad I used that leak down tester that showed me I had a blown HG instead of just changing the timing chain.
My new timing cover was delivered today. The oem HG probably tomorrow.
The head is ready (resurface) but I need to pick it up then a quick valve job on the exhaust valves (maybe the intake) and pop on some new valve stem seals on that bish and it's ready.
I still need to pull the pan off, I read somewhat can just loosen the 4 engine mount nuts or bolts and raise the engine like that just enough to clear the pan. Does that sound right?
I also read to use Toyota FIPG instead of a regular gasket and tighten the bolts just snug instead of of using a torque wrench because the bolts easily snap.
I'm just glad I used that leak down tester that showed me I had a blown HG instead of just changing the timing chain.
My new timing cover was delivered today. The oem HG probably tomorrow.
The head is ready (resurface) but I need to pick it up then a quick valve job on the exhaust valves (maybe the intake) and pop on some new valve stem seals on that bish and it's ready.
I still need to pull the pan off, I read somewhat can just loosen the 4 engine mount nuts or bolts and raise the engine like that just enough to clear the pan. Does that sound right?
I also read to use Toyota FIPG instead of a regular gasket and tighten the bolts just snug instead of of using a torque wrench because the bolts easily snap.
