are my brake shoes wearing properly???
07-29-2007, 05:17 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
are my brake shoes wearing properly???
hey guys.. i was cleaning out my truck yesterday and rembered that the guy i bought it from gave me a new set of rear brake shoes. so i decided to put them on today, i got the drums off and noticed that the factory pads were worn wierd, i think?
let me know what you think..
drivers side..
passengers side...
thanks for any advice!
let me know what you think..
drivers side..
passengers side...
thanks for any advice!
07-29-2007, 05:24 PM
#2
Registered User
hey guys.. i was cleaning out my truck yesterday and rembered that the guy i bought it from gave me a new set of rear brake shoes. so i decided to put them on today, i got the drums off and noticed that the factory pads were worn wierd, i think?
let me know what you think..
drivers side..
passengers side...
thanks for any advice!
let me know what you think..
drivers side..
passengers side...
thanks for any advice!
Pretty much normal wear pattern for the rear shows.
Note that you have a leading edge and trailing edge, along with a leading shoe and a trailing shoe and they will (and do) wear at different rates.
Fred
07-29-2007, 07:16 PM
#4
Not trying to disagree for the sake of it. But they shouldn't be worn so unevenly. It looks to me like they have been run for quite some time without being adjusted properly. One shoe wearing quicker than the other by that much is not a good sign. Mine don't, they are well worn, but pretty evenly. I make sure they're adjusted at least every month or two, I know it's a little much but...
Looks like your getting close to the 1mm minimum thickness on one shoe, while the opposing shoe is like new and shows little wear. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears this way on both sides driver and passenger.
Looks like your getting close to the 1mm minimum thickness on one shoe, while the opposing shoe is like new and shows little wear. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears this way on both sides driver and passenger.
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-30-2007 at 01:02 PM.
07-29-2007, 09:06 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
mudhippy, your correct.. the wear marks correspond on both sides..
i just seems odd to me because the piston is at the top of the shoes, so common sence would say that the tops would wear first?
also.. i not 100% sure how the new shoes are placed... theirs little letter and numbers on one side of the new shoes edge.. i asume the lettering faces out?
thanks for the replys!
i just seems odd to me because the piston is at the top of the shoes, so common sence would say that the tops would wear first?
also.. i not 100% sure how the new shoes are placed... theirs little letter and numbers on one side of the new shoes edge.. i asume the lettering faces out?
thanks for the replys!
07-29-2007, 09:34 PM
#6
That's the way I imagine it too. Because they were never adjusted tight enough at the top(where they adjust)they wore quicker on the bottom on at least the one shoe per side it looks like.
07-29-2007, 10:30 PM
#7
Registered User
Uneven shoe wear isn't anything to get all worked up over. Just replace them and be done with it. They are servo-action, meaning that the rear shoe forces the front shoe harder up against the drum when rotating forwards. Hence the extra wear on the forward shoe. If you're lazy, you could simply replace the worn shoe. Of course, check the wheel cylinder for leaks, clean up the backing plate where the shoe contacts, and flush your brake fluid. Also sand the rusty lip off the inside of the drum. We usually use 36-grit and do it by hand. If it's a big lip, you could use a grinder :o
When setting your shoe clearance, set it so that you can just hear it scuff when you spin it by hand. Apply the brakes a few times (make sure BOTH drums are in place) and then re-check your clearance. A click or three too much in either direction of optimum are just fine fine.
FWIW, on old hondas, you could buy shoes individually from the dealership... so you could just buy two shoes to replace the ones that wore out
When setting your shoe clearance, set it so that you can just hear it scuff when you spin it by hand. Apply the brakes a few times (make sure BOTH drums are in place) and then re-check your clearance. A click or three too much in either direction of optimum are just fine fine.
FWIW, on old hondas, you could buy shoes individually from the dealership... so you could just buy two shoes to replace the ones that wore out
Last edited by 86tuning; 07-29-2007 at 10:36 PM.
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07-29-2007, 10:35 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
thanks for the help guys! i borrowed the special brake spring pliers and retainer spring tool from my uncle earlier and will get to work on them in the morning.. if i get caught on something tomorrow ill post in here..
ttyl
ttyl
07-30-2007, 08:20 AM
#9
Registered User
It doesn't particulary matter how it's done as long as it is done, but I've been adjusting my drums individually at the e-brake lever behind the backing plates...evenly/same number of clicks until they don't click anymore. Then, I usually have to go back and click'em a few more times until the new shoes have really settled in. It's worked for me everytime and my brake shoes wear quite evenly. I think it's just simpler and easier this way rather messing with the e-brake in the cab or barrel adjusters through the backing plate. The latter is just a major pain in the arsky.
I know some folks hate the e-brake adjusters, but as long as they work properly (i.e. not hanging up and the cable is adjusted properly) they always worked for me.
Make sure your cylinder pistons are not buggered up and not getting full range of travel. The little doo-hickies inside the brake cylinders can hang up from corrosion and pitting inside on the cylinder walls.
I know some folks hate the e-brake adjusters, but as long as they work properly (i.e. not hanging up and the cable is adjusted properly) they always worked for me.
Make sure your cylinder pistons are not buggered up and not getting full range of travel. The little doo-hickies inside the brake cylinders can hang up from corrosion and pitting inside on the cylinder walls.
07-30-2007, 11:30 AM
#10
Registered User
Drum brakes are the devil. =P
That wear looks typical of a drum setup. every single design is a pita and quirky.
Only thing i suggest is taking that barrel adjuster apart, cleaning it real good and lubing the living hell out of it. When they jam up it makes your hate of drum brakes a passion. =)
That wear looks typical of a drum setup. every single design is a pita and quirky.
Only thing i suggest is taking that barrel adjuster apart, cleaning it real good and lubing the living hell out of it. When they jam up it makes your hate of drum brakes a passion. =)
07-30-2007, 08:07 PM
#12
Umm...maybe some folks should read this with regards to brake shoe wear. Let me reiterate first, the shoes should wear evenly. Or something is not right.
From http://www.brakepro.com/bulletin24.htm
BRAKE PRO, LTD. TECH BULLETIN
For your information
VOLUME 4, #1
UNDERSTANDING BRAKE SHOE WEAR PATTERNS
Brake shoes, and the friction material on them, are designed to wear evenly. When removing them from a vehicle for a brake friction reline, it is important to learn to "read" the old shoes before discarding them to the core bin. Brake shoe wear tells a story. That story is important to understanding what is needed to bring the vehicle's brake system back to its original healthy status.
Brake systems that are unhealthy cause rapid wear and overheating!!!
The friction material on the brake shoe should wear evenly around the entire circumference of the brake assembly. They also should wear evenly from the inboard side to the outboard side. If they have not worn this way, there is a problem in the system that needs to be corrected, or the same thing will happen to the new friction being installed. Inspect all linings for the following conditions:
Shoes showing more wear at the inboard or outboard side, rather than wear that is uniform reveal tapered wear. Worn anchor pins, holes and bushings, or outer S-cam bushings can allow applied force to push the shoes to one side, resulting in tapered lining wear. This condition also is found with outer edge grinding on the brake shoe. This is caused by the brake shoe tracking out of proper alignment due to worn parts. Re-using shoe rollers and anchor pins, therefore, is never recommended.
Unequal lining wear between the leading and trailing ends of a shoe are the result of weak return springs, worn outer S-cam bushings, or an out-of-arc brake shoe. Attempting to adjust a brake with any of these conditions will result in dragging and high contact pressure at one spot of the lining. This leads to rapid lining wear and heat damage to the brake drum.
Lining cracking indicates that the lining may be loose on the brake shoe. A shoe that is out of arc, or has rust buildup on the shoe surface or improper riveting can cause this. When replacing the shoes, make sure that the lining is tight and follows the contour of the brake shoe. Always check a replacement shoe's dimensions. Do not assume that it is OK just because it's got new lining. Remember that bargain products are likely to give you more trouble than you bargained for; so insure that the proper lining for the job is being used for the job at hand.
If the linings are contaminated with grease or oil, correct the cause of that contamination before relining the vehicle. The problem is almost always a leaking oil seal, too much grease on a grease-type wheel bearing or camshaft bushing, or careless handling. Never use a lining that has been contaminated, as it will result in brake imbalance, and loss of performance and safe stopping. Never clean off this type of problem and use the new lining!
Professional results are obtained by examination of the friction material wear patterns
For your information
VOLUME 4, #1
UNDERSTANDING BRAKE SHOE WEAR PATTERNS
Brake shoes, and the friction material on them, are designed to wear evenly. When removing them from a vehicle for a brake friction reline, it is important to learn to "read" the old shoes before discarding them to the core bin. Brake shoe wear tells a story. That story is important to understanding what is needed to bring the vehicle's brake system back to its original healthy status.
Brake systems that are unhealthy cause rapid wear and overheating!!!
The friction material on the brake shoe should wear evenly around the entire circumference of the brake assembly. They also should wear evenly from the inboard side to the outboard side. If they have not worn this way, there is a problem in the system that needs to be corrected, or the same thing will happen to the new friction being installed. Inspect all linings for the following conditions:
Shoes showing more wear at the inboard or outboard side, rather than wear that is uniform reveal tapered wear. Worn anchor pins, holes and bushings, or outer S-cam bushings can allow applied force to push the shoes to one side, resulting in tapered lining wear. This condition also is found with outer edge grinding on the brake shoe. This is caused by the brake shoe tracking out of proper alignment due to worn parts. Re-using shoe rollers and anchor pins, therefore, is never recommended.
Unequal lining wear between the leading and trailing ends of a shoe are the result of weak return springs, worn outer S-cam bushings, or an out-of-arc brake shoe. Attempting to adjust a brake with any of these conditions will result in dragging and high contact pressure at one spot of the lining. This leads to rapid lining wear and heat damage to the brake drum.
Lining cracking indicates that the lining may be loose on the brake shoe. A shoe that is out of arc, or has rust buildup on the shoe surface or improper riveting can cause this. When replacing the shoes, make sure that the lining is tight and follows the contour of the brake shoe. Always check a replacement shoe's dimensions. Do not assume that it is OK just because it's got new lining. Remember that bargain products are likely to give you more trouble than you bargained for; so insure that the proper lining for the job is being used for the job at hand.
If the linings are contaminated with grease or oil, correct the cause of that contamination before relining the vehicle. The problem is almost always a leaking oil seal, too much grease on a grease-type wheel bearing or camshaft bushing, or careless handling. Never use a lining that has been contaminated, as it will result in brake imbalance, and loss of performance and safe stopping. Never clean off this type of problem and use the new lining!
Professional results are obtained by examination of the friction material wear patterns
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