Marsheen

Ok so I bought a beat up 1994 Toyota Pickup, 4x4, Manual Tran., 3VZE. I’ve been working on it for about 6 months when ever I get a chance. I’ve put a lot of money into it so far doing normal wear and tear items. Now the reason why I’m working on it is because it had problems with engine and transmission. High Idle, revving up when coming to a stop, and gears chirping when shifting at times. So here is what I found.
High Idle - I tried looking for vacuum leaks but didn’t find any, I adjusted idle screw, no help even if it was closed all the way. Now it didn’t have an idle problem when I bought it, just couple of days after I drove it. So I put a piece of tape over the cold start air by pass hole in the throttle body, and found that’s where my problem is. Now the valve might be sticking, but I also found that the coolant inlet hose to the throttle body wasn’t getting warm, as if there was no coolant flow in it. So I started tearing through the top side of the engine. And I encountered my first problem, which was removing the intake manifold. I Snapped off 3 of the 4 studs, was able to drill a hole through them and remove 2 more but one stud snapped my extractor tool (Matco, no cheap crap). The stud in the rear of the intake driver side, has corroded so bad that it created a dimple around where it goes through the intake manifold so it couldn’t be turned. Any how I was stuck on this for long, so I called up my buddy and we had no other choice but to snap off the stud by working the intake up and down on the front side of the engine. Finally it let off and I was able to extract the threaded part of the stud by drilling and extraction tool. I then saw what I think is the issue to the high idle and revving up problems. The coolant return pipe had a 4 inch crack in it. I plugged up all the holes and blew in one and, I could nearly breathe through the crack. So correct me if I’m wrong but I believe that the reason why the engine has a high idle is because the cooling system either didn’t have enough coolant, or enough pressure to get to the throttle body, also I see that the cold start injector is controlled by the coolant manifold in the back of the motor, and I red on here that if you pres the break ecm goes into fuel cut off mode and if the temperature isn’t high enough it will start spraying fuel into the plenum (or something along theses lines). Now I’m no expert, I’m just taking random guesses as to what makes sense to me. If anyone could tell me some more please do.
Transmission - When I bought the truck, literally the only new parts on it were a master brake cylinder, with master and slave cylinders for the clutch. The truck shifted perfectly when I drove it home about few days after I bought it the brake master went out, so I replaced it, then I had the chirping gears problem in 2nd gear, I adjusted the pedal, and installed a washer on the slave pushrod to give it extra travel. Didn’t solve the problem and now it chirped into random gears, I decided to buy a new clutch master. Worked great for about 1 min, then I noticed brake fluid leaking through the pushrod seal at the fire wall, I exchanged the masters at the store, and the 2nd one started leaking over night. I WILL NEVER BUY A MASTER CYLINDER FROM AUTO ZONE AGAIN! I bought a master and slave form toyota, just have to install it now.
I haven’t completed the truck yet, I still have to set the timing on the engine. When I was taking the idler pulley form the intake manifold it jumped timing on me (I thought the cam gears would stay in place…). But I’m kind of scared to set the timing myself, mainly because I don’t understand haw I can verify that the cylinder 1 is at TDC. If anyone can give me a tip or at least how exactly the timing of the crank in relation to the cam works I would appreciate it.

AKHeathen

you should probably buy a hanes manual. anyways, allign the crank sprocket notch with the mark just a bove it. do the same for the cam sprokets. put the belt on and tighten it up. hand-turn the crank 2 full revolutions and re-check all 3 marks still line up.
the cold start injector is actually failrly independant of the fuel map. it is powered while cranking and allowed to operate powered from the efi ecu in crude operation till the coolant switch breaks ground then normal operation takes over. it could be perhaps that the coolant was too low and did not cut off the cold start injector, so you have an over-enrichment, and when you press the brake pedal it allows air back into the plenum and leaning the overrich mixture caused the rev. what you were thinking of is what's called the dfco mode that cuts fuel while you are moving at higher rpm and closed throttle. it's to prevent unburned fuel passing and igniting in the exhaust. have you ever noticed when you let off the trottle it sometimes holds a second before the engine drags? that is when it kicks in, when the rpms drop, it exits dfco mode. it is unrelated to braking operation.
please describe the gear chirping better. is the fluid full and good? motor and trans mounts good? is the chirp when engaging the gears/ while in gear or just while pressing the clutch or when not pressing the clutch?

Marsheen

With the gears it feels like the clutch is not disengagein the input shaft good enough, and I have to snug the gear in. Kinda like on big tractor trailer. Basically I press the clutch all the way and throw it in 1st, get rpm up let of throttle press the clutch all the way in and gears start to grind, it feels like I have to slow the gears down with m6 shifter. Now that I think about it, I first noticed it doing it when I would shift in reverse, than it progressively got worst.

Marsheen

Also, thank you for the reply and does this mean I don't have to mess with the ignition coil?

AKHeathen

you mean the distributor? i would set it once running. things wear out, and distributor timing changes. i would do it just because. so it sounds like something is keeping it spinning with a decent load. it might be related to the throwout bearing or clutch plate. maybe even the pilot bearing, but you should notice a vibration from that.

AKHeathen

i barely use the clutch on a tractor/trailer, just under a heavy load when double clutching to save the syncros.

Marsheen

I had the trany out, clutch looked good, and didn't notice anything wrong with the bearing, I'm going to let you know how it is after I put the ome parts in it. And that's what I meant it feels like switching gears without a clutch, I have to snug the gear in.

AKHeathen

you didn't put the clutch in backwards or something?

Marsheen

If I did, I'm sure the problem wouldn't be intermittent.

B1gR3d

If you want to check that cylinder 1 is top dead center, you can do the following steps, it makes sure you are within spitting distance, a quick way to make sure you are not completely off. Some people understand things better by feel, where they do not have to visualize things, and this can give you a better understanding of the inner workings of your engine, I found this beneficial when I started assembling engines, and no longer do it this way, but it is added confidence when new to something. You can remove the spark plug from cylinder one, stuff a rag in it, or a cotton ball, turn the crank by hand, or bump it with the key, (make sure it does not turn on. When the piston reaches top, it will pop it out. Obviously make sure the mark on the crank pulley is all the way at the top. On the 22re you can reach in with a screw driver, and feel the piston through the spark plug hole, and as you hand turn the crank, feel the piston rise and lower, not sure if that works on the 3.0

scope103

Don't use a screwdriver; use a plastic straw or a wooden chop stick. If you have a hard metal screwdriver in there and somebody slips, you can really scar the top of the piston or even the plug hole.

B1gR3d

Thanks for that bit of info, I had never considered that!

c29skinner

the bumper on my 1995 toyota pickup needs a new bumper. The only one i can find is one for a 1995 toyota tacoma. Will the tacoma one work on my pickup?

Marsheen

Just wanted to update my results, I put in a OME master and slave for the clutch I had good results for about a day, then 2nd gear started grinding, I put in the redline MT-90 transmission oil in it and it helped a whole lot, it's not like brand new but it's definitely more than drivable, the only problem is I can only down shift into 2nd when I'm going 13mph or below. Redline mt 90 realy does wonders.

Marsheen

Also I've recently got the truck on the road and uploaded all my pictures to my pc so I will more throughly update this post of what I did, and my results. When I get more time.