WyoWill

Hey everyone. I've been creepin on these boards for a while now, finally decided I should register and start asking questions. I have a 1986 4Runner DLX with 22RE that I bought for a decent 1.5k. It seemed to be in good condition besides the fact that someone decided to rip out the stereo system (which I estimate to be worth more than the car) and the PO installed. After driving it a couple miles, I noticed a couple problems with the engine. It idles rough, and I mean rough. It dips very low sometimes to the point where it will cut off. I adjusted the throttle cable so it'll idle a bit higher, but when I put the clutch in (coming up to a light) I will have to slightly press the accelerator to keep it from dying. The Odo says 120k, but being an 86 I think it may have been rebuilt. Also gas mileage is horrible. 10 mpg if I baby it. Vacuum lines seem to be ok help me out!

What should I do first? I was thinking of the following:
Step 1. Seafoam- cheap and easy to potentially help.
Step 2. Replace electrical- wires aren't OEM so I'm thinking of new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires from a yota dealership.
Step 3. Check compression.
Step 4??

Once I get the motor going well I'll start on everything else. Rear is sagging so I'm thinking a new leaf set. Paint is alright, but some minor surface rust is annoying so I'll remedy that.

I'll post pics of my baby soon!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to Yotatch. A good tune up and fluid change would be a good start. There are still places to download a FSM but are getting harder to find. I found a link recently, just dont remember where. A Haynes Manual will get you by as well. When I search, I type what I want into Google then Yotatech, and it will help find what you are looking for.

Check for vaccum leaks and if hoses are in correct location. Seafoam would help. I get Denso plug wires off of ebay. Great quality and cheaper then the parts store.

I get my O2 sensors from www.sparkplugs.com Oil Filter and spark plugs from the dealership.

On my 88Runner on the first page I have several cheap and easy fixes. I am working on an 86 Runner as well. Welcome to YT and with a little bit of work, you can have a great running litte truck. Pictures are a must.

junkyardog05

I would start with a full tune up New plugs, wires, dist cap, rotary button and also new filters for air and fuel. Something else to look into is that if it has sat for a long time the injectors could be a bit clogged a good healthy dose of gumout high concentrate would help with that. I would also take out my O2 sensor and give it a good cleaning with a wire brush or just replace it with a new one.

WyoWill

Thanks for the replies. I have a Hayes manual, and glad I do.

I'll put in an order for new plugs, wires, cap, button, and filters this Friday. If I can get this engine running smooth again, I'll start a build up thread for everything else!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to Yota Tech

First 120,000 miles is not a lot of mileage on these engines but it would be a real good idea to pull the valve cover and look at your timing chain guides the one on the left (drivers side) is the one that wears.

Look real careful at the vacuum hoses for being cracked and dry rotted and on correct.

A good tune up will help as well as getting all that old gas out of the system and a tank or two of fresh gas.

Should do wonders

donomite49

click on show all .

http://web.archive.org/web/200807310...ttora.com/fsm/

good luck with the project.

Gamefreakgc

If none of those suggestions does the trick, it might be your TPS (throttle position sensor). Not sure where that is on an 86, but on my 91 it's on the back side of the throttle body. I had low idles to 400 rpms when the engine was warmed up. Basically the TPS never sent the idle signal to the ECU and would run as though it was getting throttle at a stop, when obviously it wasn't. A TPS takes some patience getting the specs just right though so I'd do that one last, only if nothing else works.

j2the-e

To adjust the idle, you need to adjust the screw on top of the throttle body. It has an oring around it that is probably brittle and should be replaced. By adjusting the cable, you are preventing the computer from getting the idle signal off the tps. You may also need to check/ clean the IAC valve. What do your plugs look like? Black? 10 mpg is horrible! My old 87 runner got 17 mpg and I drove it hard. Has the air flow meter been tampered with? Any trouble codes in the system? Like maybe a lean code?

derockus

iTrader: (1)

PCV valve is a cheap tune-up too. The PCV hoses and grommet too while you're at it.

WyoWill

Ok update. I'm done with my undergrad, so I have time to finally work on this. I just got some new plugs, wires, rotor, cap. I sent the car to a local yota dealer and they told me I need to replace the head gasket, there is a noticeable leak and that is where my crappy 8mpg gas mileage and low hp is coming from. They wanted to charge $1600 for it, well thats more than I paid for the truck so I paid them $100 for their diagnostic problem and went and picked up a head gasket set. I'll get to that when I have a garage.

Question on 4wd- the PO replaced the shifter knobs so I'm not too sure what is 4hi 4 lo and 2hi. I think all the way to the right and all the way up is 2hi, to the right and down is 4hi and all the way left is 4lo. 4hi works great but when Im idling, I'll unlock the hubs, go and shift to 2hi and try to reverse then go. Well it just revs high without going really anywhere.. 2nd gear and 5k rpm will yield me like 12 mph. Whats going on here??

NickMiller

As to the shift pattern, it should be like the one in this pic... I have an automatic so I don't worry about a shift pattern, but I'm pretty sure this is the pattern for the 5-speed t-case!

If you think all the way to the right and all the way up is 2hi, then that explains why you're going so slow... I think you're in 4 low

Someone correct me if I'm wrong!

WyoWill

That might make a ton of sense....

cwjj9992

the 4wd shifter is right i have a 92 v6 3.0 4wd 5speed manual tranny its not running right at the moment due to a bad coolant leak from behind the engine i had to replace the thermostat differential and drivers side window motor nd a couple of break lines but thats it luckly

NickMiller

Did you confirm my suspicions yet? lol

WyoWill

Yes, I had the positions reversed.

Now, if I could only get some good weather so I could change these gaskets. The base here in Cheyenne closed down their garage due to budget cuts so I have to find some space in my garage to get working.

WyoWill

Ok so I've been able to get into the garage and get things going. I've been tearing the engine down with the help of my Hayes manual. Here is a pic of the teardown so far.


This thing is running uber rich. I put new Denso plugs on this thing 50 miles ago and they are coated. Hard to see in this picture though.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here's a pic of the 86 next to it's younger 2006 brother.


The SnowRunner!


Future plans for this after engine problems are fixed:

Repaint wheels black. Any suggestions on this?
ZUK mod for the saggy rear
Reinstall front HIDs
Rust removal and repaint gunmetal grey-black two tone.
Restore dash (fix cracks and paint)
Install roof rack
Diamond plate rear door (there is some fuzzy tie dye material there now..)

WyoWill

Ok so finally the intake, exhaust, and head are off and the HG and pistons were exposed!
[IMG][/IMG]

I really need help trying to figure out how I'm gonna clean this, the intake manifold, the exhaust, the head, and whatever else before I replace with the new HG! Also, how can I tell if the timing guides are broken or whatnot? They look in tact but that seems to be a common problem..

WyoWill

Ok so I've been busy with my internship and my job but I've cleaned the head up and the block surface and I've put the HG on. A couple things I have questions on.

-There was a ton of carbon buildup everywhere. I took the o2 sensor out of the headers and it was covered in 1/16th inch thick layer of carbon. Could this be the culprit of me getting below 9mpg?

-The exhaust isn't stock- they're aftermarket headers, would this make the reliability go in the gutter?

-My engine bay is dirrtttyy (see above pics), Whats the best way to tackle this? I don't want it to be all that pretty but I figure cleaning can't hurt much.



I've been reading other threads about HG replacement and I think I'm doing okay so far. I'll need to reference some pics on vacuum lines I'm sure. My timing guides seem in tact and the cover seems pretty new so I'm not messing with any of that for now.

feedback appreciated!

Bullet22r

i use citrus degreaser and a spray bottle to clean my engine bay, not engine degreaser tho it eats up the clear coat. and looks like your rear is sagging a bit should do the zuk mod many threads of people doing it in different ways

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

welcome back!
Yep it's a contributor, o2 sensor only has to be semi correct once per minute or so not to throw a lean/rich code.
debatable, some will say yes some no. I'll say not if it's a decent one (eg not poor man engineering home built from scratch with no proto type to copy from).
You won't like this answer, the best way is with the motor removed.
Any type of "elbow grease" scrubbing type action isn't going to be totally kind to the paint, but it will get the job done. Just don't scrub down to metal. Power washing works really well but you have to be careful not to cause damage to sensors or brittle plastic and such. Brake cleaner or citrus oil sprays also do wonders, but like the power washer you have to be careful where you aim them.

Yep timing guide is still there can spot it in the photos. If it was missing/broken you'd know since you'd of had to secure the cam sprocket better

I think you camera freaked out, those blue lines aren't really on the block to head mating surface? If they are you need to do abit more cleaning still.

Looking good man keep at it!

P.S. when you get to the vacuum hook-ups, I posted a color coded vacuum diagram in Philberts head gasket thread, it's not pretty but it might be helpful. It is an 80's model, and IIRC a cali emissions, just ignore any parts you can't locate.