My 50 dollar paint job.

1990mudslut · 11-09-2009, 03:33 PM

I've been going back and forth about actaully doing it or not but now that I have to put my toyota forsale.Why not help it get some better looks on the cheap side.Heres how the truck currently sits and it really does need some new paint.

So I decided to go jack a hood off an old honda we have and started paint it.Ive tried a few different methods on this hood so I can get the hang of the job.In some spots I sanded all the way to primer,other only scuffed the clear coat.Some I painted horizontal other vertical Im just trying all kinds of way to get the hang of it.

I just layed the first coat about 2 hours ago here are some pics Im gonna do another coat around 10 or 11.

I also pickup up this little tool box free of charge from the junkyard lol Ive already knocked all the rust off and plan to paint the top tonight.

I will keep this thread updated with everything I learn and results of each coat ect ect.

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Myron · 11-09-2009, 03:36 PM

Nice...keep us updated..take before and after pics lol

91_TOYOTA_4x4 · 11-09-2009, 03:40 PM

cool cant wait to see how it works!

peckinpah · 11-09-2009, 05:27 PM

Here is a thread I posted on this subject at Toyota Nation before they deleted my account for complaining about all the ads over there:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=313182

Here is my Rustoleum Hilux:

1990mudslut · 11-09-2009, 09:00 PM

well I got my 2nd coat done an hour ago It went on real smooth and Im starting to learn how to work the brush and fix errors.Heres some pics.

I got bored waiting on it to dry and remembered my friend had an hvlp gun so I went over there and picked it up.I tested on any big piece of metal I could find but damn its tuff to learn when supplies are limited.

1990mudslut · 11-09-2009, 09:02 PM

Peckin the truck looks clean bro!!!I still havent deicded if I want white or not.I live on a dirt road and play in the mud every time it rains so Idk Its still up in the air.

peckinpah · 11-10-2009, 01:39 AM

We had our first rainstorm of the year a few weeks back and my truck got really dirty from a whole summer's worth of road grime and dirt that had accumulated. I discovered that you spend a lot more time washing a white paint job than other colors, since every single speck of dirt is really obvious. Also, since I don't have a clearcoat any more, bird crap and things like that can more easily penetrate the paint and get almost etched in.

That said, I'm glad I chose white, because drips and imperfections in the paint are much less obvious than with a dark color like black. And I had a ton of drips, especially on my first few coats when I didn't really know what I was doing. And drips are hell to sand out, I'm not sure if you can ever get rid of them completely without sanding clear down to the bare metal.

Rustoleum makes some nice gloss gray colors that might be better for off road use. However, I avoided that color because I'm kinda safety conscious personally and wouldn't want a gray truck because that color can sometimes be hard to see for other drivers in certain lighting and weather conditions. So I picked white for that reason, easy to see. And I only found out after painting a few coats how forgiving of drips it is.

So OP, you're smart getting your technique down first. You might try leaning that hood against something to simulate painting the sides of your truck, because this paint tends to drip, especially on the sides, if you lay it down too heavy. But it sure shines up nice once you sand, buff, and wax it. Like a mirror.

1990mudslut · 11-10-2009, 06:12 AM

Yeah,I noticed when painting some pieces with the gun the paint seems to run even when Its nice and thin.Of course I didn't sand the metal at all to give the paint anything to grab to.It would go on real nice and clean then 20 minutes later the paint would start running down.It could have something to do with how thin the paint was.The paint I used was just some rustoleum I found on the shelf in the garage with paint thinner already in it.It could have been mixed to much.

Idk Its all trail and error,I walked out to the shop today and the paint on the hood looks great.When I get home ill try and wetsand it with 600 grit but we have the damn hurricane weather here so idk If I will be able to.Ill keep it up dated.

ozziesironmanoffroad · 11-10-2009, 06:22 AM

if you can id say get ahold of a hand grinder (small air grinder with the rotating pad) and grind it down to bare metal effortlessly.

peckinpah · 11-10-2009, 06:58 AM

That paint is only like $7 a quart, and it took me two quarts to paint my entire truck, (though I didn't paint the inside of the bed since I have a liner). Why not just buy a quart and mix it up yourself in small batches and experiment with how much thinning works best for you? Do you even know how much the paint you're using is thinned and what was used to thin it?

Re drips, one trick I used to help me avoid drips, was to pretend that this paint cost like $1,000 a quart, and so I needed to be really stingy with it and lay it down just enough paint to barely cover the last coat. Because I started out just slathering it on like there was no tomorrow, seeing how much paint I could lay down on each coat. And that was a disaster.

What would happen was, the paint would look fine, so I'd start painting the next panel. Then when I looked at it again after 20-30 minutes, I would see all kinds of drips that had started. So I'd try to go over the drips again with the roller, but they'd be partially dry and wouldn't flatten out. And all the places that had dried smoothly got all roughed up by having the roller pass over them again. It sucked big time, and caused me a lot of work down the road after the paint had fully dried.

Avoid having this happen to you at all costs. And the way to do this is by laying down super thin coats that won't drip once they start to dry.

Drips were an absolute nightmare for me, because I ended up spending entire days wet sanding to try to get rid of the drips and imperfections from the previous coat of paint. I think I spent probably 3/4ths of my time wet sanding, and I still didn't get rid of most of the drips and rough spots. So what I'm saying is that it's well worth your time to take pains that each coat goes on as smooth as possible, so that you spend only a minimum of time wet sanding, because wet sanding is a PITA.

Also, re sanding before you paint, you don't actually need to sand down to the bare metal, just rough up the old paint, so the new paint has something to "grab" onto. If you have a clearcoat, you definitely wanna rough that up, but you don't need to obliterate every single trace. AFAIK, Rutoleum is designed to go over old paint and minor rust or dirt (though i would not recommend that) or whatever.

The only exception to not worrying about sanding off all the old paint be areas where the old paint is peeling off or oxidizing really bad. In those places, you'd want to sand off any loose paint that's not gonna provide a stable foundation for the new paint.

And DEFINITELY make sure you wipe the truck down with mineral spirits after you're done sanding. You don't wanna be painting over the dust left over from the old paint you just sanded off (I forgot to do this).

Good luck.

11-09-2009, 03:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
Myron Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Scottsdale,Arizona Posts: 191	Nice...keep us updated..take before and after pics lol __________________ 1987 Pick Up 2.4L 4x4 2004 Rallirt 2008 Taco

11-09-2009, 03:40 PM	#3 (permalink)
91_TOYOTA_4x4 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 276	cool cant wait to see how it works! __________________ 91 std cab,4wd, 22re, 5spd, 31" Dick Cepek mud country's, dimond plate in box. "open diffs SUCK"

11-09-2009, 09:00 PM	#5 (permalink)
1990mudslut Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gray,GA Posts: 154	well I got my 2nd coat done an hour ago It went on real smooth and Im starting to learn how to work the brush and fix errors.Heres some pics. I got bored waiting on it to dry and remembered my friend had an hvlp gun so I went over there and picked it up.I tested on any big piece of metal I could find but damn its tuff to learn when supplies are limited. __________________ 1990 pickup ext sr5 v6 auto\|33x12.5x15 summit mud dawgs\|Mickey T classic II's\|3inch BL\|20 pounds of bondo\|3 shades of paint\|Yet its still kicking strong at 240k

11-09-2009, 09:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
1990mudslut Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gray,GA Posts: 154	Peckin the truck looks clean bro!!!I still havent deicded if I want white or not.I live on a dirt road and play in the mud every time it rains so Idk Its still up in the air. __________________ 1990 pickup ext sr5 v6 auto\|33x12.5x15 summit mud dawgs\|Mickey T classic II's\|3inch BL\|20 pounds of bondo\|3 shades of paint\|Yet its still kicking strong at 240k

11-10-2009, 06:12 AM	#8 (permalink)
1990mudslut Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gray,GA Posts: 154	Yeah,I noticed when painting some pieces with the gun the paint seems to run even when Its nice and thin.Of course I didn't sand the metal at all to give the paint anything to grab to.It would go on real nice and clean then 20 minutes later the paint would start running down.It could have something to do with how thin the paint was.The paint I used was just some rustoleum I found on the shelf in the garage with paint thinner already in it.It could have been mixed to much. Idk Its all trail and error,I walked out to the shop today and the paint on the hood looks great.When I get home ill try and wetsand it with 600 grit but we have the damn hurricane weather here so idk If I will be able to.Ill keep it up dated. __________________ 1990 pickup ext sr5 v6 auto\|33x12.5x15 summit mud dawgs\|Mickey T classic II's\|3inch BL\|20 pounds of bondo\|3 shades of paint\|Yet its still kicking strong at 240k Last edited by 1990mudslut; 11-10-2009 at 06:13 AM.

11-09-2009, 05:27 PM	#4 (permalink)
peckinpah Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 38	Here is a thread I posted on this subject at Toyota Nation before they deleted my account for complaining about all the ads over there: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=313182 Here is my Rustoleum Hilux:

11-10-2009, 01:39 AM	#7 (permalink)
peckinpah Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 38	We had our first rainstorm of the year a few weeks back and my truck got really dirty from a whole summer's worth of road grime and dirt that had accumulated. I discovered that you spend a lot more time washing a white paint job than other colors, since every single speck of dirt is really obvious. Also, since I don't have a clearcoat any more, bird crap and things like that can more easily penetrate the paint and get almost etched in. That said, I'm glad I chose white, because drips and imperfections in the paint are much less obvious than with a dark color like black. And I had a ton of drips, especially on my first few coats when I didn't really know what I was doing. And drips are hell to sand out, I'm not sure if you can ever get rid of them completely without sanding clear down to the bare metal. Rustoleum makes some nice gloss gray colors that might be better for off road use. However, I avoided that color because I'm kinda safety conscious personally and wouldn't want a gray truck because that color can sometimes be hard to see for other drivers in certain lighting and weather conditions. So I picked white for that reason, easy to see. And I only found out after painting a few coats how forgiving of drips it is. So OP, you're smart getting your technique down first. You might try leaning that hood against something to simulate painting the sides of your truck, because this paint tends to drip, especially on the sides, if you lay it down too heavy. But it sure shines up nice once you sand, buff, and wax it. Like a mirror.

11-10-2009, 06:22 AM	#9 (permalink)
ozziesironmanoffroad Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring Valley, CA Posts: 5,678	if you can id say get ahold of a hand grinder (small air grinder with the rotating pad) and grind it down to bare metal effortlessly. __________________ The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back. 1988 Toyota P/U 4x4 22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild engine builder .268 cam pioneer CD deck 31x10.50x15 BFG A/T BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper KC Daylighters 100W rancho rs5000 MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB! If not living life to the fullest, why live it? my trucks official buildup thread

11-10-2009, 06:58 AM	#10 (permalink)
peckinpah Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 38	That paint is only like $7 a quart, and it took me two quarts to paint my entire truck, (though I didn't paint the inside of the bed since I have a liner). Why not just buy a quart and mix it up yourself in small batches and experiment with how much thinning works best for you? Do you even know how much the paint you're using is thinned and what was used to thin it? Re drips, one trick I used to help me avoid drips, was to pretend that this paint cost like $1,000 a quart, and so I needed to be really stingy with it and lay it down just enough paint to barely cover the last coat. Because I started out just slathering it on like there was no tomorrow, seeing how much paint I could lay down on each coat. And that was a disaster. What would happen was, the paint would look fine, so I'd start painting the next panel. Then when I looked at it again after 20-30 minutes, I would see all kinds of drips that had started. So I'd try to go over the drips again with the roller, but they'd be partially dry and wouldn't flatten out. And all the places that had dried smoothly got all roughed up by having the roller pass over them again. It sucked big time, and caused me a lot of work down the road after the paint had fully dried. Avoid having this happen to you at all costs. And the way to do this is by laying down super thin coats that won't drip once they start to dry. Drips were an absolute nightmare for me, because I ended up spending entire days wet sanding to try to get rid of the drips and imperfections from the previous coat of paint. I think I spent probably 3/4ths of my time wet sanding, and I still didn't get rid of most of the drips and rough spots. So what I'm saying is that it's well worth your time to take pains that each coat goes on as smooth as possible, so that you spend only a minimum of time wet sanding, because wet sanding is a PITA. Also, re sanding before you paint, you don't actually need to sand down to the bare metal, just rough up the old paint, so the new paint has something to "grab" onto. If you have a clearcoat, you definitely wanna rough that up, but you don't need to obliterate every single trace. AFAIK, Rutoleum is designed to go over old paint and minor rust or dirt (though i would not recommend that) or whatever. The only exception to not worrying about sanding off all the old paint be areas where the old paint is peeling off or oxidizing really bad. In those places, you'd want to sand off any loose paint that's not gonna provide a stable foundation for the new paint. And DEFINITELY make sure you wipe the truck down with mineral spirits after you're done sanding. You don't wanna be painting over the dust left over from the old paint you just sanded off (I forgot to do this). Good luck.

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