bigroy408

I have a standard transmission. When I can shift to 4L my car feels different but the front tires dont spin and the 4wd light wont come on. 4H wont even hold in one place when i shift it. The 4wd hasent been used for a long time. Please help me out. I also dont have manual hubs.

RobD

Assuming your truck has Toyota's Automatic Disconnecting Differential, this is one of the best DIY articles on it:

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=399612

bigroy408

bigroy408

Hey thx for the help Rob! While i was troubleshooting i found that the line on the solenoids were clogged up by rust so i followed them and they lead to a vacume tank under the right fender and yeah it was all rusted up inside as well. If I replace it do you think this will fix my problem?

bigroy408

well i replaced the lines they seem to be working sucking air. but i still dont here a clank of the differential.

When I say clank I mean like a click or somthing that engages the front differential to work

RobD

I never heard a clank from mine.

RMA

I think not hearing a Clank Is a good thing !!!

bigroy408

When I say clank I mean like a click or somthing that engages the front differential to work.

RobD

Yeah, I don't ever remember a sound from the sleeve engaging. I replaced the hubs with manual ones and have my front axle constantly engaged now, so I can't honestly remember what it sounded like.

RobD

As far as I know, there is a switch on the front diff and one on your transfer case. When both switches close, the light should come on on your instrument cluster indicating 4WD.

bigroy408

LOL, When I say clank I mean like a click or somthing that engages the front differential to work

bobo jones

im not sure if i have the same problem or my light is burnty out cus when i put in 4h i can hear a click come from the dash but there is no light. Havent really had a chance to wheel it yet cus ive only had it about 2 months and i have a little one who constantly needs watching. but you gotta think these light are old and them burning out ids probably quite regular

bigtrucknwheels

Correct. My plug fell out and was destroyed on the pavement, so my 4wd light didn't work lol. but I don't remember hearing the front diff engage.

Try running a vacuum line right from the manifold to the actuator. One side will engage it, the other will disengage. You got a 50/50 chance of getting it right haha. But that should slide it right in. I don't really ever recall hearing of an actuator/sleeve that has failed.

happy hunting!

cblackard

Don't let the lack of noise from the front actuator lead you to believe its bad. The system is a splined sleeve that uses a "shift fork" to slide it back and forth. It has to mesh with the splines in the shaft to get the axle to lock in place so the truck may need to be rolled in order to get that to align.

Best way to know if it engages.....take it off-road try it out.

bigroy408

ok hey thanks alot guys, really helpfull! ill try these thing out. but keep throwin out Ideas, im sure other might have the same problem. thx again.

Jay351

If yer vacuum parts are working (yes that thing in the wheel well is essential to the ADD front diff actuator) then move onto the wiring. IF there is no light or click then there is a wiring problem.

Make sure your wiring is good (two wires) and test the voltage with a multimeter.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

Put your entire truck on jack stands or blocks. Enough to get all the tire off the ground. This will help you see if you actually have 4wd engaged (if you've fixed the problem).
I'm currently having a problem with my 4wd. I just installed a new (to me) front diff. I re-sealed the case and the actuator.
I don't have 4wd right now. I know that if the actuator fork in not in the right spot when you put it all back together, the actuator won't be able to engage the sleeve. The sleeve is too far over to the one side and/or the fork isn't on the sleeve.
Quick fix. Jack up the truck. Drain fluid. Remove four bolts holding the actuator on. Reset it and put it all back together.
As for the vaccuum lines. If they are all bolted up (bracket on the front of the front diff), one line is shorter than the other and doesn't reach the other fitting.

bigroy408

Do you have a picture of the wires? I tried to follow the one to the actuator but it go to somewhere up the engine. You said there are "two wires". Which ones are they cause i know the actuator one but not ther other one.
thx for the help.

BeenYota

There had been a whirring metal on metal zipping sound near the passenger side axel when letting off the gas at times while in 4WD. Sounded and felt as if the collar was coming unlocked but would then regain once accelerating. My guess is the collar is no longer being engaged. What peaked interest is the 4WD light illuminating on the dash and an audible click from the relay under the instrument panel indicating things are trying to function proper. After noticing the passenger side Warn premium hub was difficult to unlock I pulled it to find the clutch nut was bent up pretty good. Not certain what affect this would have on the shift fork or any other components but there were minimal metal shavings and everything looked okay after rebuilding the hub cap and putting it back in place. Uncertain to how this happened but any incite would be great. This weekend I plan to remove the skid plate, drain the diff, pull the 4 bolts from the actuator and check the collar position and potentially figure out a way to lock it or ensure it locks securely. Any ideas?

Respectfully,
Ben

PS sorry about the font earlier. Any text on a 72" LCD look larger than they appear.

tried4x2signN

please don't make the writing smaller...

"whirring metal on metal zipping sound near the passenger side axel"

Sounds like a worn out or dry spindle bushing to me...

gotta go get some Tylenol now...


And things with splines don't "go in or come out". They can't. they're either working or not working there is no in between. You need clutches and bands and stuff like that to be able to do that. Or else you'll be sheering teeth... Think about it...


EDIT: EDIT: " Sounded and felt as if the collar was coming unlocked but would then regain once accelerating. My guess is the collar is no longer being engaged"

Wonder if you've got a vac leak and it's loosing lock and once you gas it vac is sucking it back to lock?

Or visa versa... cant read the micro font...