str8cr8

Ok so i bought a 86 Toyota pickup 4x4 uses to have carb motor well whoever swapped the 22re in it out of a 91 made a mess the passenger floor was like a rats nest with a brain i just spent two does tracing wires and testing sensors with known working sensors from a friends rig. Lol pretty brave of em. Any ways the truck ran fine two years ago and while they guy was driving it it died. He towed it home and thats wear it sat until Monday. Well i replaced fuel pump and filter and tune up things had tank cleaned while it was out. well new injectors and fuel lines i got no fuel. well did jumpers on diag box and still nothin. so i put in a stand alone fuel pump on the frame. filter in the tank another before the pump and filter on engine so clean fuel. no start. starts on staring fluid. checked afm, both temp sensors, vcv, and cold start injector. all of them were good within ohms. monitor replaced along with coil now i think i am down to relays prob is two wiring harnesses.! i need pics of fuse box of these to trucks or locations of main relays and opening circuit relays cause i can't seem to find what exactly i have any were and prob won't. any other brain storming on this much appreciated sorry about the long intro but good to have a little history on the truck. and btw this is my first yota so i have been all over sights researching probs and do rights and this way better including new grounds adding some more and pull all tape off wires checked for rub threw or pull apart all is good i am lost Sony help much appreciated thanks again

str8cr8

Oh and another thing i ran different wires for my external fuel pump off the acc in the cab. would this mess with the computer for fuel pump in tank. since it is gone the connector is not connected to anything or is it fine?

str8cr8

Any body have any ideas on this

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have a big mess.

When you say new parts you mean out of the box new??

So you put a new pump in the tank for what ever reason that would not work . Then never did any trouble shooting to figure out why if there was an electrical issue you would have no voltage at the check connector.

Pulled that pump out of the tank!! Always much better to replace then find out what is wrong.

There should be no pump or filter on the engine just what are you talking about ??

Just where did you pick up switched power ??

Knowing a Downside to this is if you have fuel leak the pump does not shut off when the engine quits.

str8cr8

Not out off box for any sensors we have another toy its a 92 so we swapped parts out of it it runs. And yes found out there no voltage to pump traced wires, tore the whole wiring harness apart looking for spices that were bad or an wires that had rubbed through. And i believe my diagnostic box in the engine compartment is not hooked up from who ever did this swap. as for fuel shut off once it is running i will just hoooe the wiring to the pump back up and put my ne fuel pump back in this was only to eliminate an issue. and onthe passenger side of the block there is a fuel filter it is black boits to block.

str8cr8

Ok so i unplugged injectors and hooked up volt meter to ground on battery and all are getting 2.46 volts is that right how to test if they are getting power

str8cr8

Ok cancel that i have twelve volts to black and red wire and to the white and red this is just with key on hooked up a noid light and no light

str8cr8

Ok maybe this will help
12.79v @ am1 and am2
Solenoid resistor @ 12.79v and 3.5ohms
injectors 12.79
ign fuse 12.79
efi fuse 12.79
b+ to ecu @ relay

str8cr8

Ok maybe this will help
12.79v @ am1 and am2
Solenoid resistor @ 12.79v and 3.5ohms
injectors 12.79
ign fuse 12.79
efi fuse 12.79
b+ to ecu @ relay 12.79
@ Ecu .....
+b to e1 key on 12.79
+b to ground 12.79
B1 to e1 12.79
Batt to e1 12.79
E1 to ground 0.00
No.10 to e01 12.79
No.20

str8cr8

Ok maybe this will help
12.79v @ am1 and am2
Solenoid resistor @ 12.79v and 3.5ohms
injectors 12.79
ign fuse 12.79
efi fuse 12.79
b+ to ecu @ relay 12.79
@ Ecu .....
+b to e1 key on 12.79
+b to ground 12.79
B1 to e1 12.79
Batt to e1 12.79
E1 to ground 0.00
No.10 to e01 12.79
No.20 to o2 12.79
B+ to ground @ diagnostic port 12.79
No.20

str8cr8

Ok so installed new in tank fuel pump got rid of external and comes on when jumped or am open and while cracking. It starts off the csi then dies. Injectors wire red white from ecm have 12v? And black and red has 12 v ? I went through and did all grounds again and moved head ground directly to batter and back to fire wall made no changes still gets good spark. Any ideas on this all relays seem to be working but noid light does nothing while cranking. any ideas would be really useful i have a 350 motor trans and t case i am about to put in here if i can't figure it out. not.... but it is tempting.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The crimps in the harness are a poor design. They will pass a resistance check but wont fire off the injectors if they are corroded. Here is what I went thru>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51897320

Here is my $3 Noid light>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-270857/

It is actually a simple circuit. I don't know all of the voltage measurements like you have posted. Pins #10 and #20 off of the computer control injectors 1&3 and 2&4. I forget which one is which but the injectors share the same wire in pairs. I used a paper clip and completed the circuit at the injector connector then tested from resistor to the pins.

I ran a test lead from the pins and if I recall right, to the resistor and that showed that I had continuity thru the whole circuit. See if you can get continuity thru the circuit. If so most likely the crimps are bad. You can also use the noid light I got at Radio Shack and see it the injectors are firing that way as well.

By reading your post, I am assuming you still have the correct harness in the truck. If not, I would start with getting the correct harness in the truck. If you are trying to use a 91 harness, there are to many differences that I don't know about trying to make it work. If you have to put in an 86 harness, I am currently showing the steps in my 86 runner build below about doing a harness swap. It isn't as hard as it may seem. I haven't been able to get on YT as much as I would like so if I miss your post, just PM me and I will get back with you. Make sure you have the correct harness in the truck and I feel confident that I could step you thru the process of getting it running again.

You said you were getting spark and that it runs on the CSI. A quick check to see if it is on the injector side is to spray some starting fluid into the Plenum and crank it with the air hose back on. It is starts for a few seconds, it is the injectors most likely and just need to find out if it is a broken wire or bad continuity.

Also are you sure you are getting fuel thru the system? I seen you mentioning the pump. The entire fuel system from the tank to the injectors can get nasty depending on the humidity in your area. I would get the fuel system straightened out as well. I have been down that road as well.

Edited to explain how I ran a resistance check...On the picture below, jump an injector and then run a test lead from the pin on the computer plug and the harness that connects to the resistor and if I recall right the resistor even says 10 and 20 on it.


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str8cr8

Ok i will go and cut all a spices out and sodder them then heat tape them will let you know what happens thanks

str8cr8

Ok so spent all morning cutting and splicing and replaced wires to injectors and rewired 2main grounds to the computer. Went and cranked on her fires right up i let it run for about 35 seconds shut it down and noticed i did not put am hose on all the way. So i reinstated the house and it started on the csi then died kept cracking and it acted like it wanted to but it did not start so i undid the afm hose again and set it just like it was and still nothing took intake off again and looked at wires all look good put back together and still only csi the battery is charging now. I also went through all fuses and all are good. What do you think now atleast we are onse step closer.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I will post some checks that you can do in any order. Try easiest to hardest. Seems like the injectors are working now and thinking you have a fuel issue now.

The fuel system can get dirty in these trucks. Rust in the injectors or fuel rail could give similar problems. I have posted in every build I do trying to show how bad they get and how to clean them. It is easily over looked as it is out of sight and out of mind. Lets see if you are getting good fuel flow before getting into that area. Might be something that you want to look later on. If you have a fuel tank issue, it can be cleaned and funtional for about $60. Vinegar,$25 fuel pump off ebay and Red Kote to seal the tank. A fuel pump from Toyota is $300 or $150 at a parts store.

For good measure check these as well.
Check Solenoid Resistor. Haynes page 4-10 13.22b.......................... supposed to have 2-3 Ohms, I have 3 Ohms.
Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9.................................................


Seeing your in Idaho, I am guessing you have cooler temps. I have never had a problem with the Cold Start Injector but the Timing Switch itself. I have gotten them top work just by cleaning them. It is the brown (23mm I think) sensor under the thermostat on the front of the intake. There is a test and I can look it up later if need to.
In Haynes page 4-10, the CSI Time Switch Failed all test.


Is the wire from the coil/igniter hooked up. I have seen them run for a few seconds with it disconnected.

Is the Air Flow Meter hooked up. Same thing, it will run for a few seconds with the cable not hooked up then die.

Are you getting good fuel flow? Remove the rubber line off of the back of the fuel rail and stick it in a glass jar. I prop the air flap in the AFM open with a screw driver with the key on and it should fill the quart jar in a minute or so. It pumps alot of fuel.
Here is a link to get you familiar with some of the possiblities>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52064973 also show the rubber line coming off of the fuel rail.



Or you can jump the fuel pump. 85/86 it is on the driver side near the coil.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector


Here is a link to get you familiar with some of the possiblities>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52064973 also show the rubber line coming off of the fuel rail.

Was going thru your thread again and 85/86 diagnostic port is on the drivers fender. Look for codes. Use a paper clip. The wire is just for picture purpose as I cant find a paper clip anywhere here at the house.


Codes...http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml

str8cr8

Ok so it files the jar quick and the old wiring harness this diagnostic porn does not work the new one does but i don't have the light for the 91 and i just checked harness to injectors again and i am getting 12 v to both wires. So i have it tore apart again and am rechecking my wiring. I have not looked at your links but i will thanks for all the help on this. Will let you know more soon and yes it is cold here about 32 today it was only 22 yesterday anyways.

str8cr8

Oh and i have cleaned the brass sensors water temp and csi, injectors fuel rail lines and tank because it sat for 2 years. The afm is connected
and the coil ignitor is hooked up

str8cr8

Here are some pics of what im working

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That is an electrical mess on your hands. Since the injectors appear to spraying and you are getting spark. I suggest checking the Timing or maybe you have a broken wire somewhere. That will be needing a resistance check. I don't know if the computers are interchangeable with the different harnesses.

The 86 and 91 harnesses each use different injector with different resistances. Depending on which computer, harness, and injectors or how they may have mixed matched them, it could be a tough fix.

I am currently converting a truck from carb to efi. I would suggest getting a complete harness from an 85-88 truck and re doing it. Here is how to remove one https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52150377 as soon as the weather warms up I will start re installing it.

Just the way the PO did that, about the only correct way to fix it is to install the correct gen of harness. Even the 85-88 have several differences but either would work.

str8cr8

Ok so i have talked to Kerry abbot propane sorry if i misspelled his name but i could spent a good chunk of money trying to fix this and maybe it will work or make an investment and go propane the wife miles the idea of propane so we have decided to do it that way plus in the long run if we get more into off reading it would solve fuel issues when your low and on an incline as soon as taxes come in we are ordering it. Should post up a thread on this conversion or there quite a few i think i might just put it in a build thread is that right sorry newbie and just tryin to follow rules here thanks for all your help terry your a awesome guy for helping with this.