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Motor oil instead of Antifreeze??

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Old 11-18-2016, 08:24 AM
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Motor oil instead of Antifreeze??

OK... So I know I'm getting a bit of antifreeze in my motor oil. Not exactly sure where that's happening, but I'm thinking probably from the cylinder heads.
I'm using my 88 3vze 4x4 Pickup, as my daily driver.. I'm surprised at the torture this thing has put up with. Planning on doing some major work on her. It's a bit leaky, and by a bit, I mean.. it pretty much leaks everything, including blinker fluid and alternator oil. (ok, That's a stupid joke. but seriously it leaks everything.) Which ... brings up a strange idea.. Stupid jokes and miss-using vehicle lubricants and fluids...

problem. antifreeze is getting into the motor oil.. .. but... my antifreeze level doesn't seem to be dropping "much." I'm leaking oil too.. but oil level isn't dropping "much" either... I've heard of people putting Antifreeze into the motor thinking that's where it goes... But... I've never heard of the opposite. Motor oil in the Radiator.. .. .. But Wait... many Motorcycles use Engine oil from the oil sump to cool head.. And this brought to mind, motorcycle oil coolers, and oil filled electric heaters (radiator). .. What would be so bad about cooling the engine with a separate oil system? ... with motor Oil in the radiator?? If the Radiator Oil were to get into the motor oil... it wouldn't cause any problems. And further.. since it's Oil, there shouldn't be any oxidation issues in the coolant system.. Possibly / Probably a lower single viscosity motor oil could be used? Like maybe SAE 10 motor oil.. The biggest detractor I can think of is the price. but even then... if your using the Right radiator fluid, it probably be a similar price to the Old Toyota Red radiator fluid anyways.

Any thoughts? Other concerns? Any points I'm missing?
Old 11-18-2016, 09:13 AM
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Red face

As long as you live in the tropics !!

You would need to redesign the former water pump to more of a oil pump deign

You would need to do the math to figure out the heat transfer rate between coolant and oil .
You will find oil is much slower .

Then increase the surface area of the radiator to equal out the slower heat transfer .

This is off the top of my head given some real thought might be even more interesting

Interesting how oil coolers use engine coolant to remove the heat in the oil
Old 11-18-2016, 01:09 PM
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duplicate

Last edited by millball; 11-18-2016 at 01:48 PM.
Old 11-18-2016, 01:10 PM
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I don't know about reverse engineering an existing automotive cooling system to use oil as a primary heat transfer medium, but in the big picture of things, oil cooling is not unheard of.

Just google Rumely Oil Pull tractors.

Last edited by millball; 11-18-2016 at 01:49 PM.
Old 11-18-2016, 01:39 PM
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aah.. Yeah, I do see your point there, Wyoming9.
But.. well.. not all oil coolers are cooled with water.. many oil coolers are set up exactly like a regular radiator (with a comparably very small amount of oil, some also oil separate from the engine oil) and which are cooled by air flow. But these ARE engines that, for the most part, are air cooled, and the oil filled radiator is more of a failsafe for slow moving traffic.

But, I did find that even Mineral oil is too viscous to flow through a regular radiator, though it does reduce in viscosity at higher temperatures, but.. eh... whatever.
Old 11-18-2016, 09:50 PM
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Sorry, O.P., but if oil-cooled engine were better, the newer generations of Yota's would have it already. The 3.0 had always been notorious for HG issues, so I would focus on troubleshooting that first.
Old 11-19-2016, 04:25 PM
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Antifreeze and the water contained within the coolant will affect the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings.
Old 12-01-2016, 08:47 AM
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Oil cooler could do it. The part appears to brass and/or aluminum IIRC. Two chambers, one moves oil and one moves coolant. Believe only the oil is separated by rubber gaskets (in and out sides), so a failure of the oil cooler walls would be needed to mix.

Typically these get clogged, especially if using crap oil filters, as well. Good idea to use a parts washer or supersonic cleaner to clean it... Start with brake cleaner to flush what you can. Rinse out what you can of brake cleaner w/ water. Supersonic clean w/ simple green. Then reflush with water a couple times and blow out w/ compressed air. Cleaning out would probably help to tell you extent of a leak if any. Coolant side should hold some air pressure if testing and plugging one end while compressed air in other... If you've used crap coolant or not flushed on schedule, etc, that's an easy way to corrode thin walled parts like this...

Some threads on the diy for repairing on here somewhere.

Last edited by RSR; 12-01-2016 at 08:51 AM.



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