Moog Idler Arm
#1
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Moog Idler Arm
Anybody had any luck with these Idler arms? They look stronger and incorporate a Greaseable Balljoint. Looks as though it dosnt even need a truss brace as it moves on a ball.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/po...9lIHNldHRpbmcu
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/po...9lIHNldHRpbmcu
#2
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They are good and carry, or used to carry, a lifetime warranty. The problem is that it is just a weak design. Idler arms take a lot of stress. I've replaced a ton of them on rwd GM cars and trucks and Ford cars over the years.
#3
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Ahh ok..where is the weak point? With the original Idler arm i usually have bushing wear before the rod end usually goes. I see this one uses a balljoint that can actually be serviced..so i a ssumed that it would control wear much better than the stock ones.
#4
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Yes it is better than the original design. Save your receipt though. It won't last a lifetime. Also remember to grease it or tell your lube guy that is has a grease zerk there so he doesn't miss it.
#7
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I'm running a Moog right now, after HAVING to get one right at the second after bending my old one
so far it's holding up, but it's only been on maybe a month, lol
personally, I would rather have the other design though, cause this Moog style doesn't allow you to use the idler arm braces...
but it'll still get the job done well with a stock suspention... mine isn't stock, so we'll see
btw, here's the old one that I bent
so far it's holding up, but it's only been on maybe a month, lol
personally, I would rather have the other design though, cause this Moog style doesn't allow you to use the idler arm braces...
but it'll still get the job done well with a stock suspention... mine isn't stock, so we'll see
btw, here's the old one that I bent
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 08-19-2009 at 04:29 PM.
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#9
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#10
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Thread Starter
I'm running a Moog right now, after HAVING to get one right at the second after bending my old one
so far it's holding up, but it's only been on maybe a month, lol
personally, I would rather have the other design though, cause this Moog style doesn't allow you to use the idler arm braces...
but it'll still get the job done well with a stock suspention... mine isn't stock, so we'll see
btw, here's the old one that I bent
so far it's holding up, but it's only been on maybe a month, lol
personally, I would rather have the other design though, cause this Moog style doesn't allow you to use the idler arm braces...
but it'll still get the job done well with a stock suspention... mine isn't stock, so we'll see
btw, here's the old one that I bent
#11
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Thread Starter
Just curious..how is the Moog weak? I thought having the double ball joint design is great..plus it allows movement in all directions and shoudnt bend...No need for an Idler arm brace.
#12
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The Moog design results in a lot more leverage/force on the bearing - the stock design with it's bushings separated by several inches is a stronger design, especially with a brace.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...ion/IdlerArms/
Last edited by sb5walker; 08-20-2009 at 09:29 AM.
#13
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Moog idlers don't have a double ball joint, they have a double tapered bearing race. That doesn't allow "movement in all directions", and thank God for that: if it allowed the center link to move all around, your wheels would go in and out of alignment - mostly out.
The Moog design results in a lot more leverage/force on the bearing - the stock design with it's bushings separated by several inches is a stronger design, especially with a brace.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...ion/IdlerArms/
The Moog design results in a lot more leverage/force on the bearing - the stock design with it's bushings separated by several inches is a stronger design, especially with a brace.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...ion/IdlerArms/
Great info!!! Thanks.
#16
Well I had good luck wheeling lightly on my Moog Idler. Then, the CO4RJ came and I wheeled a lot harder. This is what I have now:
If you look closely, you can see that the arm is bent at the end (not terribly evident in the pic) and also the scratches on the frame where it was hitting. The arm now has about 1/4" of up/down play... I'm going to rebuild my stocker and brace it.
If you look closely, you can see that the arm is bent at the end (not terribly evident in the pic) and also the scratches on the frame where it was hitting. The arm now has about 1/4" of up/down play... I'm going to rebuild my stocker and brace it.
#17
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you'll notice the beafy droop bump-stops, that's because I didn't get the Rancho diff drop with the UCAs but with those stops and a 4Crawler 1" diff drop, I have no binding even with the 4Crawler 1.5" BJ-spacers too
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 08-23-2009 at 07:44 AM.
#18
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Does anyone know if you can buy the bushing that goes between the idler arm and the center link. I have all the parts to rebuild the arm. I just need that one bushing. It seems you have to by a new Idler arm to get it. Any Ideas?