Junkers88

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Used that site to get the numbers and how to.

Here's what I have.

E2-Vs, recommended is 20-400 ohms. I have 141.7ohms
E2-Vc, recommended is 100-300 ohms, I have 180ohms
E2-Vb, recommended is 200-400 ohms, I have 279.8ohms
E2-Tha, recommended is (for the temp) 2K-3K ohms, I have 2.065K ohms and think this is where the problem is. It's just inside the minimum and if I could get the low idle issue to repeat itself I could meter it during the problem. So far it's just hit and miss.
E1-Fc, recommended is infinite/open, I have infinite/open.


I"m guessing either Abe or 4crawler will be able to offer some advice.

Oh and this is on the 89 4runner, 22re, with the Supra AFM.


Thanks.

InternetRoadkill

Those numbers look reasonable. Are you sure it's not sticking? They sometimes get corrosion in the vane bearings.

Junkers88

I didn't even know that was possible. I've got some lithium lube I used to use for motorcycle chains that I can squirt in there.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

InternetRoadkill

Before you do that, reach into the throat and push the vane manually. If it's trying to stick, you'll feel it.

Adding lubrication might makes things worse since it will attract dirt. Be careful doing that.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Hey man, if you want I'll read out mine this weekend and we'll compare numbers. If the temp sensor is reading low lubricating it isn't going to help.

Junkers88

If you get a chance I'd appreciate it.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Word, I'll see if I can do it tonight!

abecedarian

I would not suggest lubing anything at all. At most, use MAF cleaner in the bore of the AFM. Any lube inside the AFM will cause an accumulation of dust / dirt and make any problem with it sticking eventually become worse.

The E2-Tha reading will change based on ambient temps and the cooler it is, the lower it should read. Sounds like you may be a little low, unless you're in Alaska, but that's not as big an issue as it seems since once closed-loop, the O2 sensor should give feedback and the ECU should compensate accordingly. It basically only relays extra information to allow the ECU to determine how dense the mixture is. Even if that reading were out of spec, the O2 should compensate once warmed up.
The E1-Fc connection is the one that controls the COR (circuit opening relay) and if the AFM is at rest (no air flow through it), open / infinite is exactly what you want to see.

but anyhow...
Junkers88- have you looked at this thread from thook: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...esting-146662/ ?

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Here's what I have at roughly 52 degrees F:

E2-Vs, recommended is 20-400 ohms. You 141.7 ohms/Me 155 ohms
E2-Vc, recommended is 100-300 ohms, You 180 ohms/Me 179 ohms
E2-Vb, recommended is 200-400 ohms, You 279.8 ohms/Me 279 ohms
E2-Tha, recommended is (for the temp) 2K-3K ohms, You 2.065K ohms/Me 3.32k ohms
E1-Fc, recommended is infinite/open, You infinite/open-Me infinite/open.

Funny, you were worried about being on the low side for E2-Tha and I'm on the high side!

Now one thing that I haven't done is actually verify my MPG. I totally forgot to do the numbers on my last run. However, the truck runs great with clean and crisp throttle response. I hope this helps!!