linuxrunner

I installed a newly rebuilt 22re a while back it came with a rubber oil pan gasket, installed the gasket and torqued to the FSM recomended amount.

A few weeks later i noticed a little leakage from the gasket so i tightened the bolts (didn't know better)

and then the leak got worse so i tightend them again


So it looks like i should have never used the rubber gasket that was supplied and should have used only FIPG?

I am going to remove the pan and gasket this weekend and apply only FPIG, but now that i have over tightened the bolts what should I do to prevent leakage? I have obviously warped something so i want to try to make it flat again.

linuxrunner

Okay so I know that this issue has been beaten to death, but i wanted to update with the method that seemed to work for me.

So for all those searching for how to do this, here is another way that may or may not work for you

I have a manual so i jacked up the engine until just before the tranny touched the body. (remove engine mount bolts)

Slid in 2x4's between the engine mounts and removed the jack (to get it out of the way)

removed the steering stabilizer (one bolt)
Removed the steering linkage (pulled bolt from idler arm and one inner tie rod and it flops down out of the way)

Remove like 20 oil pan bolts, oil pan will drop. lots of room to remove 4 bolts holding the oil pickup tube.

Pan pulls easily out the front.


Once pan was out i put a bolt with large top in each hole and hammered the bolt holes flat again (they were warped from over tightening).

Used brass wire wheel to clean the pan gasket surface.

put pan on flat machine table and hammered the lip to be flat, careful not to hammer any of the channel that holds the gasket material. Lip was warped from hammering the bolt holes.

Once everything is nice and flat, clean the engine block surface and pan surface and apply FIPG.

Attempt to re-install pan without bumping any FIPG (this one is fun)


It's been 3 days now and no big leaks (enough to puddle on the ground). I cleaned and de-greased the bottom engine yesterday so I will crawl under tomorrow and see if there are any small leaks.

87yo_ta

Dumb question but is yours a 2 or 4 wheel drive? I need to re-seal the pan on my 4wd. ugh...

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

That's the only way to seal them is with FIPG. That's the way it came from the factory. There are pockets on the pan made to hold the sealant. I don't what the deal is with all aftermarket oil pan gaskets for the 22re but I've always heard not to use them...now I know why.

I'm doing a timing chain on mine and had to get mine out because I had plastic in my pan due to the damaged driver's side guide rail. I pulled my front diff and steering linkage because I am regearing and redoing the front end as well.

linuxrunner described the way of doing that I've heard about if you are not pulling the front diff to get the pan over the diff. And he had to do that because of that front diff, so yes, it's a four wheel drive...I would think.

linuxrunner

Yes it was 4wd.

I understand the earlier versions of the 22r oil pan were different and required a gasket. (i have a FSM for an 84 that says to use a gasket)
So the gasket kit I got was probably for many different years.

the171

for a seemingly simple job this one can be a bit of a pita. The hardest part imo is getting the silicone spread out properly. Tricky to do while trying to bolt in the oil pickup without making a mess or getting crud in the sealant. It also feels a bit dangerous. Losing a hand between the pan and block is certainly possible. jackstands ftw.

as stated, gaskets suck. silicone, a flat pan, and oe torque is the only way to ensure a proper seal. Doing it right with the engine out of the truck pays big for engine builders in the know. twas a lesson learned for me.