oldskoolvws

I think there also might be a fault in your version 4 diagram. The fan is two speed, but does not use both 12V signals like the volvo relay does. You need to split the run signal as the Nissan fan (same as me, I couldn't put Ford item in my truck) only uses one 12V signal at a time. IIRC, I used the temp sender ground signals to toggle my relay signal going to the volvo relay. I'll see if I can find the CAD I drew.

RBX

Thanks, your install looks nice.

please post up your CAD drawing, I'd like to see how you wired yours.

What did you do about the A/C/do you have A/C?
The diagram below shows how the Volvo Electronic fan Controller works. It is impossible for the controller to power both legs at the same time.

94TonkaTruck

Both of you guys are warriors. I will joining your crusade very soon after I finish up my MSD 6A mod. Do keep us posted.

RBX

Last night I reconfigured where my thermo switch was located. Initially, out of convenience, I set it into the radiator fins at the top of the rad. This produces a fan that will turn on once operating temperature is reach and never turn off. Not what you want. My original thought was mount it at the bottom rad outlet, but my fear is that the coolest part of the radiator may produce a scenario where the engine overheats(or heats up beyond normal operating temperature) throughout the radiator just as the fan kicks on. It wouldn't take long, but the initial coolant entering the radiator would be at or above operating temperature. So, I relocated the thermo switch to control the fan about 1/4 (3" to 4") from the bottom tank on the passenger side of the radiator. At 84f ambient last night, at idle, the fan cycled on and off approxamaitley in minute intervals, on 1 minute, off 1 minute.
As a side note I am running an oversized radiator, I think it was for a T100 or first gen Tundra, thick 3 core(actually it's 2 core the size of 3) and my coolant is almost 90*f difference between top tank rad inlet and bottom rad outlet even before fan is on or during fan operation.
I may experiment with a thermo switch moved down closer to the rad outlet.

94TonkaTruck

Could post some pics of your finished work? I'm already starting to gather some of these parts together. Its its something for me to aspire to.

RBX

Give me a few days. I'm not near the truck.

RBX

94TonkaTruck

Ok, so I've went to yards and riped out a fan from 96 nissan quest, thermostat connector from 95-96 BMW 328i, and fan controler off a volvo 510 turbo. I know I'm missing relays but would I need it from the quest or volvo? What other things am I missing?

Noob question coming. I'm confused about the relays on where and how they are connected to what. I mean I see the diagram but I don't know where its located and what wire to cut and connect it to.

RBX, your pics help a lot. Its just how, where, and what each relays are connected to that confuses me . Any advice is much appreciated.

RBX

Doesn't matter where you get the relays from because we aren't passing high current thru them. I personally like the quest/villager relays, but any will do.

Relays are only necessary if you want to have the fan turn off with the ignition, or you want to run A/C.

The ignition relay is just a switch that is giving the thermoswitch(BMW dual temp sensor) a ground leg to complete the eFan circuit when the thermoswitch reaches temperature. But, again, you can skip this and just hook it up to the battery, but be aware that the fan may continue to run after the truck is switch off.

The A/C relay is necessary to keep the compressor wire and eFan ground separate. Because of the Toyota A/C circuit, the compressor wire acts as a ground until it gets power from the A/C amp, this in turn will/would make the eFan run even when the A/C is not running. There is probably a better way to tap into the A/C wire harness, but I really didn't feel like hunting a wire down, so the relay was used.

You will need to get a wire schematic/diagram for your truck so that you can tap into an ignition wire if you choose.

runnermedic

Any updates????

RBX

Not much of an update....
eFan with Volvo controller has worked flawlessly for over a year now, wish I would have saved my money and did this swap first.

runnermedic

yep!!! the volvo controller and the vw or bmw switch is the way to go!!

RBX

Do you have the VW switch part number and /or temperature ratings?

AKHeathen

or better yet, an aftermarket one? like item number 555-52125 at jegs, or 555-10562/555-10563 or corresponding kits? all about $30 btw, maybe there is something better and cheaper, i'm hoping.

runnermedic

check out this other thread i made

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...ersion-290825/

runnermedic

better stick to the volvo setup,plenty of them on ebay,its more reliable.
order 2 of them just in case one fails just simply swap it and done!

never had an issue with the volvo set up i sold my 2nd gen a few years ago and the current owner still have the efan on it working with no issues.

chuckross1957

I've been following this thread/mod with the notion I might do an e-fan conversion in the future...However I think it is likely that I'll stick to the factory fan. But there are some advantages to having an electric fan. I have some experience with hose adapters and fan switches on my other vehicles (Regals). The tricky part is to match your fan switch with your thermostat if you want your fan system to work well. The VW M22x1.5 thread pattern is one of the best for the variety of temperature choices. I found that the Wahler 6017.85D two speed fan switch works well with a 180F thermostat in my Regals. You can use the VW part # 321-959-481 to locate the Wahler. The temperature ratings for the Wahler are 80-85C/88-93C. The lack of hose adapters for the M22x1.5 VW switches is the downside, I had someone fabricate custom hose adapters. I also use a Honda K-swap hose adapter...I think it is a 34mm, and a Napa FS244 single speed switch. The FS244 switches on at 199F and it is a M18x1.5 thread. http://www.urotuning.com/Auxillary-Fan-Switch-Low-Temp-93-88-85-80c-Mk2-p/321959481.htm

RBX

^^^ This is the same temperature rating as the switch BMW makes that I used. I've been searching for just the the bi-metallic switches so I can just make my own.

chuckross1957

You guys are participating in the pioneering of the e-fan conversion on these vehicles. I'm over on the sidelines watching. It is interesting to see how far the mod has progressed. Looks like using the Volvo controller was a smart choice, you have oem quality and a proven track record with it. I was wondering about your normal operating temperature range. I think you are going to have a wider temperature range with an e-fan/thermal switch setup as compared to to factory mechanical fan system. When I'm working with an e-fan system, I'm thinking about the sweet spot as an ideal normal operating temperature range. This is the range between when the thermostat starts opening and the highest speed fan switch closes. So I guess I'm wondering are you going to be running a lot hotter than normal in hot weather conditions using an oem t-stat and thermal fan switches. On my Regals I went from a 195 to a 180 stat and my normal operating range is about 180 to 199 degrees. As far as selecting fan switches goes, you can run in to some strange situations. I don't have any experience with the BMW fan switches, but they seem to be a popular choice...so I guess the parameters are good in general. I got off the beaten path experimenting with the Honda style switches and I bought one that was switching the fan off and on about once a minute. And as pointed out in the link in the above post some of the VW switches can have a large gap between on and off.

runnermedic

that whaler specs looks good,the only issue converting to an efan setup is that we the not toyota engineers dont know how toyota specs those tstat so are they fully open at 82c or they start to open at 82c,i think that the only way to solve this is to get a new tstat dump it on a pot with water start heating it and document every change and the temp when it changed that way we can surely get the proper switch.the key is to mantain a near steady temp reading!