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Massive loss of power

Old 02-20-2013, 09:18 PM
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Massive loss of power

I am hoping for some advice before I get to balls deep in this. I just purchased an '88 4Runner. I am still super excited about the truck and have owned it maybe 36 hours. I changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and just finished changing the fuel filter. I am experiencing a massive loss of power. To the point that I have to put the vehicle in 4lo to get it up the driveway. I have no clue what to think at this point. I talked to a friend of mine and he is suggesting that I pull it apart and check all the timing marks, replace the tensionor, the timing belt was changed about 10K ago, and then go through and check the timing from the distributor. Other then that I have no clue what to do, any suggestions? Also, I need to have this thing up and running at 100% before monday so I can actually drive this thing.

One more thing, I have searched but am not seeing any DIY on how to change the timing belt for a 3.0L anyone have a link or anything that can show me what is up. I have the chilton, and have a basic understanding of how to do it, but hoping for something a little easier to follow and understand.

Thank y'all.
Old 02-20-2013, 09:30 PM
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"site:yotatech.com timing belt replacment with pictures" First link is a good one.
Link

Search for and download the FSM (Factory service manual) and do the full tune up and inspection. A compression test would be a good idea also, it's cheap pretty much free unless you break the loan-a-tool.
Old 02-20-2013, 09:38 PM
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Another thing you might want to check is the catalytic converter. It might be clogged
Old 02-20-2013, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
"site:yotatech.com timing belt replacment with pictures" First link is a good one.
Link

Search for and download the FSM (Factory service manual) and do the full tune up and inspection. A compression test would be a good idea also, it's cheap pretty much free unless you break the loan-a-tool.

Good looking out man, never thought to google it.

How does one check the cat???
Old 02-21-2013, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jtderoo
How does one check the cat???
First check for stored codes in the computer

Drop exhaust at the bottom of the manifold assuming it's welded. If you can disconnect it after the o2 sensor that is best, if you can't disconnect it there unplug the o2 sensor and let it run in dummy mode. It'll throw a code for the sensor which is why you want to retrieve those first.

FSM link
Old 02-21-2013, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
First check for stored codes in the computer

Drop exhaust at the bottom of the manifold assuming it's welded. If you can disconnect it after the o2 sensor that is best, if you can't disconnect it there unplug the o2 sensor and let it run in dummy mode. It'll throw a code for the sensor which is why you want to retrieve those first.

FSM link
So I could just drop the cat and it would start running well? Or is checking the cat in addition to doing the timing?
Old 02-21-2013, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jtderoo
So I could just drop the cat and it would start running well? Or is checking the cat in addition to doing the timing?
No one knows at this point, but a clogged cat fits your symptoms. Pull your codes!
Old 02-21-2013, 07:14 AM
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Did it work well before you worked on it?

Is it an automatic or manual?
Old 02-21-2013, 07:29 AM
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It was running rough prior to me owning it, figured normal tune up stuff would perk it up, and as I have driving about 85 miles, it has gotta progressively worse.
Old 02-21-2013, 10:45 AM
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Do you have any smoke in the exhaust, oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil (will look milky brown)? Hate to say it but it sounds to me like a HG issue. The guy who sold it to you might have seen it coming and ripped you off.
Old 02-21-2013, 03:04 PM
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@Gamefreakgc I seafoamed it and it didn't smoke much, then this morning when I pulled the O2 sensor, and last night when I finally got it to start up after the fuel filter feassco (spelling?) It smoked a little bit but nothing crazy. To be honest with you, I have yet to look at the oil. I am not going to touch her till tomorrow. Also, I agree with you I am feeling very swindled right now. I don't think he did it on purpose though he said it had sat for a good little while before he started to try to sell it.

Back to the trouble shooting, I pulled the O2 sensor and nothing changed. Was actually a little it of a struggle to stay running at first, but it leveled out and didn't make it 100 ft from the house and had to turn around and head back. Again, it took 4LO to make it up the driveway. I am ready to shoot this thing in the face. I am hoping all the stuff listed below will fix this thing.

I went to the parts store today and order all sorts of new goodies. I ordered a new head gasket, and everything required to change it, new timing belt and all associated gaskets and what not, and all the stuff to do the thermostat. I feel like I am so close to just rebuilding this thing. I am ready for her to run right. I have another question for y'all, I am going this far into it, should I just go ahead and pull the heads, and take them to a machine shop. How much would it cost me to have a valve job and all that jazz cost me, and would it actually be benificial to go ahead and do it now, or just to much.

Anyone in the Fort Walton Beach area feel LIke joining the suck feast that will ensue this weekend and helping out with all this good jazz? If so feel free to PM me, I will let you know what the plan is. There will be cheap beer in it for anyone brave enought to help. Wallet can't afford the good stuff. Keith Stone till this whole thing is over.

Oh one more thing, any opinions on what would cause a fuel gauge not to read. I searched it and saw a couple other thing on there that looked promising, and will probably be trying that this weekend as well, if the sending unit is shot, won't be replacing that till after the VW I have is gone.

Thank y'all
Jordan DeRoo
Old 02-23-2013, 10:06 AM
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So I am balls deep in this timing belt, and can not figure out how to get the damn top idler pulley off, need suggestions!!! I have tried wedgiing a wobble bit in there with no aval. I am tinking about putting a small cut out, but don't really want to do that. Please Help!!!
Old 02-23-2013, 12:08 PM
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well, a clogged fuel line would definitely cause loss of power and the fuel gauge not to work. disconnecting the fuel lines and cleaning em out, maybe draining the tank and cleaning it. it makes sense if it's been sitting a while. just a suggestion.
Old 02-24-2013, 05:05 PM
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Putting that on the list.
Anybody else got any ideas, I have no clue where to go next minus spraying the running engine down with starting fluid hoping that it revs and there is just a massive vaccum leak.
Old 02-24-2013, 05:16 PM
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Did you check the ignition timing? (Heck, your friend even suggested that.) Easy to do (at least, before you started tearing the engine apart) and a simply necessary part of diagnosing any engine problem.

I guess I should also ask if you checked for any stored codes.

(a clogged fuel line could cause lack of power, but would not affect the fuel gauge. That's something else.)

Last, WHY are you trying to remove the upper timing belt idler pulley? You don't do that to change the timing belt. It's an integral part of the upper coolant entry, which comes off in a single piece (if the reason is that the pulley doesn't turn smoothly, then yes, you just replace the whole piece.)
Old 02-24-2013, 06:54 PM
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just how long was the truck sitting for a long time before you bought it?
you said that the P.o. had the truck sitting for a good while, so the fuel could be old/have water from moisture mixed in.
i just got a 1984 honda vt500 running yesterday, it would not start at all even with new fuel mixed in some old fuel. i drained the whole tank and put in all new fuel and it fired right up. keep this in mind.
Old 02-24-2013, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
Last, WHY are you trying to remove the upper timing belt idler pulley? You don't do that to change the timing belt. It's an integral part of the upper coolant entry, which comes off in a single piece (if the reason is that the pulley doesn't turn smoothly, then yes, you just replace the whole piece.)
side note, i have seen timing belt kits that come with the upper idler pulley, maybe thats the situation.
Old 02-25-2013, 06:39 PM
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Yah the timing belt kit came with the upper pulley. Everything sealed up nicely.I will keep the fuel thing in mind @jreyes94, that was on the list of things to check this weekend. Once I finish all my homework, damn you military PME, I will be spending some time troubleshooting, and hopefully updating y'all on what fixes her. Trying to stay positive.
Old 02-25-2013, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jtderoo
Yah the timing belt kit came with the upper pulley. Everything sealed up nicely.I will keep the fuel thing in mind @jreyes94, that was on the list of things to check this weekend. Once I finish all my homework, damn you military PME, I will be spending some time troubleshooting, and hopefully updating y'all on what fixes her. Trying to stay positive.
i quickly browsed through your posts on this thread and did not see anything that stated what type of tranny you've got it. if it is autmatic, try starting out in L and shift up gears if it moves faster than it already does.
Old 02-25-2013, 07:36 PM
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I have the standard trans

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