When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone have any idea how to do the wiring on a swap from manual windows and locks to power? I am basically taking all of the guts out of the donor doors with power windows and locks, as well as the door panels so ill have the switches and everything. Just trying to get some insight on how to wire it up. It is my understanding that all of the power stuff should bolt into the doors. My truck is a SR5 with manual options. I found a SR5 with power options and am tyring to swap it over. The windows in mine are vent windows, and the donor are full windows so Ill need new window regulators, but aside from that I should have everything I need
Ah thank for telling me about that. Im not sure what it does but ill make sure I grab it. I am hoping that im not in over my head with this. I cant find any real information on the wiring anywhere i search
The link I gave you gives all the lock wiring. The window wiring is all inside the door: http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../7powerwin.pdf (the door lock relay provides the time delay so you can roll up the windows with key-off).
I will say that this wiring is not for the faint-of-heart. The Control Relay alone connects with a 14-pin connector, and each of those wires has to end up in the right place.
Ah crap. I think im in over my head on this one. Ill keep looking and try to gain more info. I figured it would be more of a supply power and ground to each type thing, since the relays are built into the door wiring
You can do a "basic" wiring, but you lose convenience items like the time delay after key-off to roll up the windows. You could, for instance, keep the windows powered all the time.
But you'd want to be better than average at wiring to do this, particularly since you'll be making up a bunch of connectors (and no, you don't want ScotchLoks for that). It's good to know your own limitations, but don't be afraid to stretch a little.
I was wanting to go with the "Basic" wiring where my windows and locks are powered all of the time. Thats how my rear window is wired. It was like that when I got the truck. I wired in in-cab winch controls to my solenoids in my winch, and I also wired in a dome light into my removable top... and that is the extent of my wiring career so far. Those were more simple tasks. I didnt have to use relays or anything. I would really like to do this, I just dont want to go out and get all the parts and completely be SOL once i get it installed
I got everything, and i mean everything out of the donor truck. I tried getting the entire wiring harness, but couldnt get it out of the dash. So I just cut the wires that come out of the main harness, so I would have some room to work with, and the male and female plugs on the driver and passenger door. I also got the grommets for sealing the doors. I also got the door control relay box and the male plug for it too.
My plan of attack inregards to wiring:
Take each wire that was cut, run a connecting wire from where I cut it to the other side of the door, and to the door control relay. Should have all matching wire colors. Solder inline connections. Basically recreate the chunk of wiring harness I cut out. Hopefully this works, as it seems to be the easiest option. My other option was to run 2 relays per up down switch and hard line a fused wire from my battery to the switch. That seems like it would take much longer
Unfortunately, he had already sold the power mirrors, which were in perfect conditition.
He had a fully furnished 1988 SR5 with all available options, my buddy and I came and stripped the entire interior (his truck is bare with no panels carpets or seats.) I kept the fancy multi adjustable SR5 seats, gave my buddy my seats and now hes got a fully furnished truck. Im going to swap to auto windows and locks and he will get my front panels too.
I stripped down a parts truck a couple years ago (88 SR5) and I ended up with both a door lock controller and a power window controller. Not sure if you are going to need both or if the window controller I have is the one for the back window.
My runner doesn't have power windows or locks and I don't really care to have them but my parts truck did. If you realize you forgot something, let me know and I'll see if I have it.
It actually went pretty well. I created my own wiring harness using the power window control box. I got the male and female ends of each plug and the entire wiring harness except what was behind the dash. Once I made the harness, I pulled my dash and then ran the wires.
After that I had to dril holes in my doors and my 4runner to run the wires, and then hook it all up. I could not figure out how to get to the "power window CB" and Ignition fuse, and i dont have the power lock CB to begin with, so I ended up running those three power wires into a 20 AMP circuit breaker. I dont think the windows or locks draw all too much power to begin with. Heres some photos:
yeah i used all red wire...
I didnt take any pics of ripping my dash apart, its pretty self explanitory. Eventually Ill need to figure out a better way to power it, but it works now.
Nice work! The red wire is fine. You can drop $200,000 on a new Peterbilt and every wire in it will be white. They shouldn't draw all that much current. I know that the pre 1988 GM trucks had theirs wired straight through the switches. As years went on most of them got weak due to corrosion and wear so at least one company produced a kit to wire them up through relays. My boss just installed one of these kits in his 87 the other day and he said it took him about an hour to do it. The windows work a whole lot better now. Not sure what it costs. He wouldn't have done it if it was much but that might be something to google search if you have trouble with yours.
Ill probably look into that, I figured the door control box was some kind of relay, who knows. I hope running all of the power to the same circuit breaker wont hurt anything.
Just curious. If anyone has a first gen 4runner or second gen truck, do both locks automatically lock/unlock when you use the key? Maybe its because I dont have the door lock CB but when I use my key, the locks work like manual locks, then I have to push the door lock button in the door panel to unlock the passenger. I was just curious if this is how its supposed to work, or not.
In my '94, to unlock both doors with the key in the driver's side, you turn the key twice. The first turn mechanically unlocks the driver's door, the second turn activates the door unlock motor on the passenger side.
DO make a clear diagram of how you hooked everything up. It all seems pretty straight-forward now, but you made some decisions and you will forget them very quickly.
The door/window fuse is 30amps. That probably covers running both windows at the same time, so you may be okay with a 20amp breaker. But no need to guess: just stick your ammeter in the circuit and let us all know! (Oh -- your multimeter only goes up to 10amps? Well, maybe this will help: http://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp-...ter-67724.html)
Basically all of the wiring is completely wired stock, with the exception of these wires here all going to the same power wire, protected by a 20 amp CB.
Thats pretty interesting about the turning the key twice, when I go out on my lunch break in an hour, ill try it out and report back. This is my first toyota with power windows haha! Ive got my fingers crossed, the whole reason I did this swap was for my passenger (My fiance). When your lady is all done up and its raining outside, those extra seconds of her waiting outside can make the real difference on how the ride goes...
PS, im super embarassed to say, I dont even own a multimeter or anything. I wired this all up without it. I basically matched wires to wires. Kinda embarassing to admit
Just curious. If anyone has a first gen 4runner or second gen truck, do both locks automatically lock/unlock when you use the key? Maybe its because I dont have the door lock CB but when I use my key, the locks work like manual locks, then I have to push the door lock button in the door panel to unlock the passenger. I was just curious if this is how its supposed to work, or not.[/QUOTE]
That's the way mine work, with the door lock switch not the key.
You could install an alarm like my car which unlocks the doors with the remote.
Last edited by donomite49; 07-05-2016 at 05:50 PM.
06-28-2016, 05:17 AM
