manual locking hub lubrication
#1
manual locking hub lubrication
I am new to this forum, and have recently purchased a 1986 SR5 pickup and was reading in the manual that it is best to drive in 4wd at least monthly in order to keep everything lubricated. As this truck has sat for a long time, everything is very dry, as evidenced by lots of resistance when I tried this. Is it possible to add lubrication without pulling everything apart, and what product is recommended?
#2
You need a creeping oil to help with penetration with disassembly. Methinks WD-40 (or equivalent) will help get you going in the right direction enough to engage your hubs by hand.
Of course, that's assuming it's the hubs which you are referring as exhibiting lots of resistance when tried.
Of course, that's assuming it's the hubs which you are referring as exhibiting lots of resistance when tried.
#3
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That pretty much is talking about the transfer case just being shifted into 4 lo and 4 high and the front differential getting some exercise because with the hubs unlocked it really does not move.
Every thing else is pretty much lubricated.
Some people put way to much grease in the hubs that very well might be the cause of your hard locking hubs
Every thing else is pretty much lubricated.
Some people put way to much grease in the hubs that very well might be the cause of your hard locking hubs
#4
Your hubs are a seperate issue for lubrication (in relation to running the transfer case).
As stated above, dont grease them up with chassis grease, it is way too much and come winter you wint be able to turn them. If you do fecide to grease them grease them as if you cannot tell you put grease on them at all. That means so very little.
As stated above, dont grease them up with chassis grease, it is way too much and come winter you wint be able to turn them. If you do fecide to grease them grease them as if you cannot tell you put grease on them at all. That means so very little.
#7
4WD lo is going to feel like driving a tank,keep that in mind. You should not use 4wd on hard dry pavement, if you are, try 4WD on dirt etc. Odds are your axles are shot, I say this not because of your symptoms but a 1986 truck that has sat along time probably has old old axles.
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#8
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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Sorry to hijack this thread (although it seems dead)
I climbed under the truck (in the dark, dressed for work and in 29 degrees) and didn't see anything rubbing (like a fender flare anything like that). I didn't unlock the hub because i was late for work and my center caps have to be removed with a hex key. I tried to wiggle the pads and calipers (which were also replaced when i did the axles because they were sticking... this sound is NOT that sound). I figured i would unlock the hubs before i drove home this evening and see if the noise comes back. Anyway, this noise doesn't seem to be in my gas pedal or the floor boards anything that would indicated a transmission issue. It seems to be just the hub/wheel itself.
Of course, i will put the truck up tonight/tomorrow morning and remove the wheel, but i was on here looking for potential causes when i discovered this thread about "spindle" grease and i know i didn't use anything but wheel bearing grease when i did the work on the axles/bearings/calipers/etc.
Thanks in advance for any advice/thoughts.
#9
More than likely the brass bushing. Can happen when cold. Grease will help. Needle bearings were developed as replacement for this condition. Many think more trouble than worth (a bushing won't seize as a bearing will, etc.). There's info on easy way to grease bushing. I had this problem, greased over summer, and no problems this winter in CT. I only heard it when temps were in low 20s or less. Of course, when you get a chance, a new bushing would be best as it may be too worn on an '88 truck.