olharleyman

Thought I would clean up rebuild and repaint the hubs things were going OK till the clear coat went on,the clear coat was mislabeled it was supposed to be clear according to the label turns out it is satin clear so now I have to do them over but it was at least a learning experience I now know how to rebuild them and it is surprisingly easy

Primed and ready for some paint


painted up looking ready to put back together


reassembled with the satin clear not so cool looking but I will redo them Monday with clear,


Then again the wrinkle looks different maybe it will grow on me before Monday

Blk63vette

They look good your engine looks extremely clean...

BoostinChick

If you use wrinkle, usually curing them in the oven works a whole lot better. I did that with my valve cover on my GSX and it came out pretty good.

iamsuperbleeder

you know olharley, I think if you're rig was white, and you had the same wheels as me, we'd have almost the same looking vehicles

I did the same thing a while back, lmao. between our motors and this, are vehicles are like brothers

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

And I thought I was bored today. Looks pimpin OHM!

pb4ugotobed

Dealer 09210... looks like you get your parts from courtesy toyota That's ok, you're about an hour from me, I can't hold it against ya for the $4.00 in gaskets...

However it looks like you're short a couple nuts and cone washers. Do you need any of these? I have some extras if you do... If you wanna come out and get 'em you can have what you need.

To the original poster... I'm really not tryin to be mean or anything, but if it were my mad painting skillz, I don't think I would have put up pictures looking like that. Your best bet it to strip all that crap off, and try again. Shake up the can real good. Hold it back away from the object to be painted about 12 to 18 inches. Do many light coats until it's completely covered, and let it dry between coats. It should take 4 or 5 coats for a good thick coat. Then do the same with the clear. This will elimintae all those runs and goopy spots that you have goin on there.

Just my .02.

iamsuperbleeder

lol, yep, that's where I got 'em from

where are you at in the Sunshine State?


oh and that paint he used was that wrinkle finish stuff. it goes on THICK, and is suppose to look like that

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

man, trav, you always gotta go and post up your hubs every time the subject comes up, eh?? LMAO!!!

can i join ya?

CappyKD

Man I gotta find that guy on here selling these and switch from my ADD ones to these.. Looks great.

stock as possible

How are you guys gettting the gray lettering on there so nice? Just a tiny brush and steady hand?

olharleyman

Funny thing is I though about painting this one Pearl White with a Red Mother of Pearl Clear coat thenI relized that a 4-5k paint job on a off road truck would be really stupid

And if you would have read the post and not just looked at the pictures and offered up your wisdom you would have noticed that I stated that the can was mislabeled and that I was going to redo them or just learn to live with the satin clear

Not sure how everyone else did there's but I let the paint dry and before clearing them I used a razor blade and pulled the paint off the letters and arrows then cleared them over.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

my hubs, on the lettering at least, were grooved...
what i did was waited until the paint was almost cured then took a seal pick and carefully scraped each of the grooves clear of paint...

iamsuperbleeder

being raised lettering, I just let the color coat dry, then carefully took some 1000 grit sand paper and sanded the tops of the letters and arrows down. then hit it with 2 coats of clear to keep 'em look'n good

pb4ugotobed

Actually, by looking at the cardboard around your painted pieces, it's fairly obvious the paint was laid down way too thick. That isn't clear, or the wrong kind of clear. It's paint laid way too heavy, too quickly. Like I said, I'm not tryin to be mean here, just trying to offer constructive criticism on how you could do it a little more cleanly next time. That's all. No offense intended, just tryin to offer a lil advice.

89silverpu

x2...looks like you got a little excited and didn't paint it in different coats and you painted too close. That's way too thick of a coat for it to settle properly. And also, did you wait long enough for the paint to dry enough before you put the clear on? Try doing a couple lighter coats with enough time in between then wait long enough till you put the clear on.

And in all honesty, its just a hub. Who really care what it looks like? Mine hardly have any paint left on them and they still get the job done

DethYota

So simple yet so clever. My hubs need some resurfacing and you inspire me to paint them the same color as my truck

BoostinChick

Wanted to post mine too since I just painted/rebuilt mine last night. That razor blade tip sure did work a lot better for me than sanding. I also used stainless steel allen head bolts because I think they look sharp and are different than the regular bolts. Cell phone pic for now until I actually get them installed (teaser!).

iamsuperbleeder

where'd ya get those bolts from? they look nice!

peow130

all nice until the threads seize up and you strip out the allen holes

BoostinChick

They are stainless steel (won't rust), and if you use the proper allen size it won't strip. If I am that worried about it I will put antiseize on them. The hub cover bolts are not torqued down that much.

I had them left over. I bought a bunch to do my valve cover on my project car. I think they are M6x1.0x20


Only cost me like 20 cents/each for the ss allen bolt and washer.