manual hubs question
12-14-2012, 05:53 PM
#2
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Easy swap you'll need 4 54 mm nuts and 2 lock washers. Dealership is the cheapest place I've found these parts. Definitely beneficial auto hubs are garbage. Just take off auto hubs install nuts, set wheel bearing preload install lock washer and nut, that's it.
12-14-2012, 06:28 PM
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The benefit is that you can use 4x4 in reverse without the hubs dissengaging. I'm not sure of all the technical differences between auto hubs and ADD, but with manual hubs, when they are dissengaged the CV's aren't turning so you have less wear on the front driveline and rolling resistance overall. In terms of strength, I'm not sure if there is a difference between any of them.
12-14-2012, 06:46 PM
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12-15-2012, 01:25 PM
#10
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I'm willing to bet you have ADD and not auto hubs if the pic in your avatar is the one you're working on. If it's ADD, all you have to do is replace the drive plate with the locking hub bodies and put the locking dial and plate onto the hub body. ADD doesn't unlock in reverse, so the only advantage you'd get is less rolling resistance and less wear and tear on your front axle with the hubs unlocked.
12-15-2012, 06:53 PM
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The first thing you need to do is, like previously stated, find out if you have auto hubs or ADD. You can do so by following the link that wabbit provided.
12-15-2012, 07:02 PM
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im so confused right now about this ADD and theauto hub its says 89 could either be auto or ADD so how would i know which one i have sorry for being dumb but im confused
12-15-2012, 07:10 PM
#20
My '88 Runner says Auto hub on the hub face. It looks like a manual hub, except no dial to turn. ADD, I believe, has a disconnect on the differential(driver side axle tube, close to the gear housing) itself. It has some vacuum lines running to it. It will not have a non-dial hub like I described earlier. Automatic Differential Disconnect is, again, I THINK, what it stands for.
Can someone verify or correct this?
Can someone verify or correct this?
