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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Man....I am about to drive myself and this toyota off of a cliff.....

Old 11-30-2007, 03:11 PM
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Man....I am about to drive myself and this toyota off of a cliff.....

Weeks have gone by and I've done nothing but fix this truck. It started with the timing belt tensioner blowing apart, then my power windows quit. I fixed that, then the alternator went and it tore up a belt with it. So I replaced that. Then I am getting vibrations all of a sudden. I check the Ujoints and a rear one is shot.

So today, I wake up and go out in the cold. I pull my driveshaft, and replace both rear axle ujoints. Since I've been having brake problems in the past two days (SURPRISE) I decided to dive into that as well. I pull the brakes only to find my passenger caliper is shot. So I go buy another damn caliper, and grab a new K&N while I'm at it.

So I get home, put everything back together, and I bleed my brakes. I drop in the K&N and I'm good to go. So I start it up...fixed truck, with no problems and all, and pump the brakes a few times. They feel good....oh no, not so quick...they go to the floor. I'm like...here we go, now what blew out.

I get out and the gas tank is covered in brake fluid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So now that damn line blew out. So this line is above the gas tank.

Can anyone help me out here? As it looks, it appears I have to drop the entire damn gas tank to really get at these lines. The lines go back to that load sensing proportioning valve. I didn't get time to look where the lines ran, but they end right above the rear axle.

Can anyone give me some help or something...I'm getting so damn sick of this.

So....truck was fixed for 2 minutes!
Old 11-30-2007, 03:19 PM
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I know on my truck (95 PU) the lines run on the inside of the frame between the frame and gas tank. I replaced one line when I removed my ABS. I couldn't figure out an easy way to do it without removing the tank. You MAY be able to loosen the tanks and move it enough to get in there. Good news is I think there is only one clip that you have to remove and then you can get he line out. It's bolted on IIRC.

It's been awhile so my memory may be off. Hope that helps.
Old 11-30-2007, 03:26 PM
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it seems to come in spells. be thankful you don't have to pay somebody, but sometimes i think knowing how to turn wrenches on my junk is a curse.
Old 11-30-2007, 06:22 PM
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hhaha I second that man....these old cars take up more time thin anything else I can think of. No wonder they are usually named after women.
Old 11-30-2007, 06:28 PM
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i could not have a full time trail rig. keeping my DD running is enough.
Old 11-30-2007, 06:33 PM
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O cmon now its an old truck wtf do you want?

Wanna trade:
Tried to align my t100 and found out i bent a part of the suspension. Having no working alignment machine at my shop we kept guessing wtf it was. I replaced 400 bucks worth of parts AT COST!

We finally fix it all and it is aligned. Go to drive home, one of the front calipers are seized up. Frig doing one I do both and find out that the one ruined my pads b/c it spit brake fluid out everywhere. So 140 for loaded bendix calipers.

Then the brakes feel off, they felt off before but figuring we replaced the calipers it should be fine. Need new rear shoes and wheel cylinders.

Before that it was my dimmer switch that gave out for 90 bucks and i had no lights inside on the gauges and stuff..
Old 11-30-2007, 06:42 PM
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did you only replace one caliper?

as for the line I bet you can get it free with out dropping the tank.

I rebuilt my calipers with a seal kit from napa last year and had no problems until my MC went out and when I replaced it I also did the rears.
after I got my runner I had to replace the above items and the clutch and starter.

now when looking at older yotas I all ways ask about the most often things to replace have been replaced and if not I offer that amount lower so i do not end up with 600$ in parts needing to be replaced a month after I bought the truck.
Old 11-30-2007, 06:49 PM
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I noticed this on my 92 pickup when I had the tank out to change the pickup to the diesel pickup. The lines behind the tank over time gather up a bunch of sand and salt and all that good stuff and get eaten away. You know its the same stuff that eats the frames out. Well I just replaced the sections of line there and it worked fine. Just spliced in some new line there and shes good to go. But I would say you gotta drop the tank to do any sort of a proper job. Doesn't take that long and usually most of the bolts come out without breaking. I did pretty good. 5 out of 6. Make sure to use anti seize when going back together for next time.
Old 11-30-2007, 06:50 PM
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Tell you what....

You just go ahead and drive on down to the cliff, make sure you bring the title with you.

Sign the title and leave it on the seat,

Go ahead and take the plunge, but leave the truck behind.

I'll pick the 4Runner up and take care of it for you

after all it sounds like you've already fixed about everything.

I know it sucks but you should plan to go ahead and pull the tank and fix it right. after all it's the brakes, and you don't want to go and drive off any cliffs do you
Old 11-30-2007, 07:24 PM
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WTF....you people aren't supposed to encourage my suicide!!!

I'm gonna just drop the in tank, because I know it's just gonna be a pain if I don't. Problem is, I know it's gonna be a pain to drop it, cause some is gonna break further I gaurantee.

I know it's an old truck, I don't expect things NOT to break. I just hate when it comes in a pack like this. I have a full time business doing automotive fabrication, engine building, and engine management tuning, and I just honestly have NO time to deal with this constantly. I have manifolds to build, and cars to finish, and this just adds to my stress level.

It just pisses me off, to no sooner finish 6 hours of , get up in the truck, and in 1 minute a new problem arise...know what I'm sayin here? Hopefully this is it and this thing is good to go for winter...that's all I'm sayin.
Old 11-30-2007, 07:26 PM
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key is to keep your rig.
document everything you do, and when.

pretty stout trucks when they're kept up, and mine hasn't stranded me yet.
all in all, for a completely rebuilt truck, it will drive forever.

my current 86 22r 4x4 has been rebuilt at least once, but its my favorite body style and i own my own tools.
Old 11-30-2007, 07:33 PM
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to add.
make sure your truck is NOT a basket case (like a Katrina car)

and becoming angry will not help.
i blew apart my headbolts in my beloved bmw, then had a hydro-seize. having to rebuild that too.
got a new job- walked to work for 6 months, and did it.

life aint easy bro.
but i met about 30 hot-ass girls taking the bus and found a great girl out of it.

ya never know why we have to learn these things, but just remember, you will be stronger for it.

dropping the tank is a good idea, using PBblaster is too.
using anti seize is a good idea, but only if you know wet-torques vs. dry.

otherwise, take some pix, and help others out later on.
Old 11-30-2007, 07:47 PM
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You could solve all your problems by simply driving down to the toyota place and trading it in on a new loaded 4Runner, you'd have a warranty and a car loan for about $35,000 . That's a LOT of brake shoes!
it does suck to have em break down and let ya down, so do what I do, have several ;-)
Old 11-30-2007, 07:55 PM
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key is to keep your rig.
document everything you do, and when.

pretty stout trucks when they're kept up, and mine hasn't stranded me yet.
all in all, for a completely rebuilt truck, it will drive forever.

my current 86 22r 4x4 has been rebuilt at least once, but its my favorite body style and i own my own tools.
WTF? This helps the guy how??????
Old 11-30-2007, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by misterzee
...trading it in on a new loaded 4Runner, you'd have a warranty and a car loan for about $35,000 . ;-)
NOT!!

Believe me, I love the fact I save ass loads of money. Plus, I like this era of truck. While driving a new 4runner is probably, no doubt, nice and cushy, I prefer my old lifted stuff. Like I said, I just hate when happens in big piles. Doing some stuff every couple months isn't so bad, but having a bunch of things fail in 3 weeks can get you down.

You can certainly rationalize all the money I'm saving, but in essence I'm losing money working on this truck and not taking care of my business. I run the show with 1 part timer, so I am in a sense of speaking paying out the ass. I try not to look at it that way, but the facts are the facts.

Hopefully she'll treat me right when the snow starts....that's all I ask. I've given this thing alot of love, so it needs to be done with the problems after this brake line....at least until spring anyway.
Old 12-01-2007, 12:11 AM
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damn dude. from the looks of things you bought a ford in a toyota suit
Old 12-01-2007, 12:50 AM
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dont let it get ya down, its old, stuff breaks down (as you will in years to come but no ones gonna bitch at you =p)... or they might

I've put a lot of $ into my rig and it looks purty i think... but not amazing and definetly not where id like it to be for as much $ ive spent.

but i can fix it in my driveway without any computers or hightech crap and i sure as hell dont have to pay anyone else to fix it. NO car payment and gas is pretty cheap at 20/21mpg compared to them guys who love them big FERDS! =)... or old chevies

I actually DID rebuild my truck (frame up) and its documented here on yotatech.

Dropping the gas tank is NOTHING. 6 bolts and make sure you label your gas lines. Hardest part is getting it back up there ... it helps to have a buddy!

the lines that run along the gas tank are in a crevice that is notorious for collecting mud and debri over the years which collects moisture. Metal in moist soil/debri = corrosion = line failure.

ive net had to replace brake line before but first thing id do is talk to a brake shop and ask them how you might go about DIY'ing a new hardline. Not sure the dealer will carry that part =) Maybe they'll do it for you at some reasonable cost (mom n pop shops r the best!)

or go to the junkyard.
Old 12-01-2007, 05:56 AM
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Just go to an automotive store and get a chunk of brakeline the length you need and bend it the way you want. Get a joiner fitting for the line and cut the old brake line and take your old fitting off the LSPV and put on your new line. Flare with a flaring tool and put it all back on. Not a hard job to do.
Old 12-01-2007, 06:06 AM
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If the line is ruptured in one spot that you can see it might be suspect in another you cannot.

Option 1:
Drop the tank. Inspect both lines and replace as needed. Fix it once. Fix it right for another 20+ years.

Option 2:
Sign the title over to me and I'll gladly do it.

I'll take working on a paid for vehicle over a loan payment any day.

Old 12-01-2007, 07:39 AM
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hey one way to look at is it that the line broke in your driveway and not while you were going through an intersection. same thing happened to me, i was backing out my driveway and lost the brakes and the same line let go. its not fun...thats why mine has a for sale sign on it.

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