ariashemi

I've done hours of searching on here and in manuals but can't find an answer. My brand new 22re is giving me hell and I don't know why. No codes were present with my old motor and it ran just fine.


Issues:


Timing NOT advancing and idle doesn't change when jumper is pulled from T and E1 terminals when trying to time. Ignition stays the same. Distributor timing is correct, cam timing is correct, tps adjustment is correct.


Running super rich. Plugs are equally black and oil smells of gas. Uncomfortable running it any more without an oil change already and I haven't even driven it once!


I opened up the AFM and tried adjusting. There is no difference in running when I move the potentiometer. I can force it shut or all the way open, doesn't run any different lean or rich. But maybe its running on an open loop? Car will die if AFM is unplugged though.


Throwing codes 2 and 8.


Trouble code 2 states:

Open or shorted Air Flow Meter (AFM) circuit
- Defective AFM
- Defective Electronic Control Unit (ECU)


Trouble Code 8 states:

Open or shorter Air Thermo Sensor citcuit
- Defective intake air thermo sensor circuit (see AFM)
- Defective ECU






Tests already performed:


I am getting continuity and power from my ECU to the TPS harness and AFM harness.


Compression all around is about 210 psi.


20 inches of vacuum at idle.


TPS adjusted.


Clean grounds


CSI or injectors not leaking


No air/ vacuum leaks


Attempted clearing codes.. still appearing after reset.








Could poor grounds in the EFI harness cause this? I know it sounds like a TPS problem but it is not; I have checked many times and it is adjusted correctly. Although a new AFM may fix the running rich problem, would that also be effecting my timing issue as well? Please help!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Yes the ECU ground on the intake can be quite finicky I just snugged mine one day it was just enough to cause all kinds of interesting things.

Took forever to find .

Another thing might be a poor connection at the AFM or any connection Checks fine with a meter but just does not work when plugged together.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The main ground on the Intake needs to be good clean and a great connection.

ariashemi

Does the ground go on the intake first and then the fuel return line bracket on top of it?


My intake manifold is painted and the ground is on top of the bracket; but would still think it'd ground since it's making contact with the bolt, which goes into the lower plenum threads.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Can`t say was there a bolt in the hole when it was painted??

Although mine is no where any fuel line brackets .

So many times I ended up grounding it direct to the ground buss at the battery

ariashemi

I went ahead and tested continuity from afm side of the harness to the ecu side and it seems I can't get a resistance reading from the E2 terminal (sensor ground). What puzzles me is why it isn't working now.. it has been only a month and a half since I took my old motor out, built my new one, and installed it. There is no cosmetic damage to the afm harness I can see; I pulled the plastic shield in the inner fender well to see if rats possibly got in there. No damage at all. I will just try to jump ground next and see what happens from there.