Main girdle removal
#1
Main girdle removal
I recently bought a 91 V6 4wd pickup that had a slight knock. I got new rod and main bearings, and have already managed to get the rods replaced with little issues. However, I cant get the main girdle to separate from the block! Is there something Im forgetting (besides the 8 bolts that hold it on) or is there a trick that Im unaware of? and the engine is still in the truck by the way.
Just joined the forum, but I have been looking around for a while. I have a lot of experience with Hondas, Subarus, and GMs, but this is my first toyota. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance!
Just joined the forum, but I have been looking around for a while. I have a lot of experience with Hondas, Subarus, and GMs, but this is my first toyota. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance!
#4
Registered User
this is a pretty frequent toyota forum, this and TTORA other than that this is it, i just dont think anyone knows the answer really, you talkin about the crankshaft??
#5
welcome to YT.
You will find what information you need using this link to Toyota Factory Service Manuals.
You will find what information you need using this link to Toyota Factory Service Manuals.
#6
Awesome! Thanks for the link. Added to Favorites.
Well, I solved my own problem. Just figured I would give my solution any case anyone searches for this in the future.
Upon repositioning the truck for more clearance to take pictures, I could get a better view of the rear-end of the engine. Basically on this engine, the rear main seal housing has a lip on it that extends out maybe 1/4" that prevents the main girdle from lowering out of the block.
Rather than separate the engine and trans, pull the clutch/FW, and remove the rear main seal housing, I opted to grind that ***** off. Seriously. I believe the phrase "F*** IT" was used quite extensively. The engine has 220k miles, I loaned out my engine hoist, and I was ready to get this done.
NOTE: I do not recommend this to anyone! Even though Im positive Ill see no problems from this. I masked and covered everything and took my time, being careful not to knick anything or get shavings in my block.
Heres a shot of said lip.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3345/...2df0e6.jpg?v=0
Again, the proper way is to remove the engine, but if you are brave there are other solutions. Now to put it all back together and decide on a lift!
Well, I solved my own problem. Just figured I would give my solution any case anyone searches for this in the future.
Upon repositioning the truck for more clearance to take pictures, I could get a better view of the rear-end of the engine. Basically on this engine, the rear main seal housing has a lip on it that extends out maybe 1/4" that prevents the main girdle from lowering out of the block.
Rather than separate the engine and trans, pull the clutch/FW, and remove the rear main seal housing, I opted to grind that ***** off. Seriously. I believe the phrase "F*** IT" was used quite extensively. The engine has 220k miles, I loaned out my engine hoist, and I was ready to get this done.
NOTE: I do not recommend this to anyone! Even though Im positive Ill see no problems from this. I masked and covered everything and took my time, being careful not to knick anything or get shavings in my block.
Heres a shot of said lip.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3345/...2df0e6.jpg?v=0
Again, the proper way is to remove the engine, but if you are brave there are other solutions. Now to put it all back together and decide on a lift!
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#8
Yes, the 3.0 v6 and a lot of other cars(Hondas, etc.) have one big ladder like main bearing cap that I've always heard as the main girdle. It houses the main bearings that isolate the crank from the block. If it wasnt such a hassle for me to upload pics on my computer, Id take some more for you.
After looking around some, Im assuming the 4cy truck engine uses seperate main bearing caps, maybe thats why I wasnt getting any input. Anyway got it taken care of. If its still knocking when I get it back together, Im going to assume its the piston wrist pins or something else not worth fixing. Ill drive it till it quits, and save for a deisel swap in the mean time.
After looking around some, Im assuming the 4cy truck engine uses seperate main bearing caps, maybe thats why I wasnt getting any input. Anyway got it taken care of. If its still knocking when I get it back together, Im going to assume its the piston wrist pins or something else not worth fixing. Ill drive it till it quits, and save for a deisel swap in the mean time.
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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
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12-03-2019 07:08 AM